Who hammered a supposedly hardest sport climb in the world?

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Messages 41 - 51 of total 51 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Mar 14, 2019 - 10:42pm PT
climber egos? say it ain't so.
Inner City

Trad climber
Portland, OR
Mar 15, 2019 - 12:14am PT
I grabbed a bolt hanger one time....jeez, shoot me..
Dingus Milktoast

Trad climber
Minister of Moderation, Fatcrackistan
Mar 15, 2019 - 07:09am PT
Totally agree, LST, I am so tired of hearing "FA" reports from areas long visited by climbers, with long "no publish" traditions....the new reports often say stuff like: "I climbed as high as I could, whacked in a pin and lowered off". sweet, I am sure that it is a bomber single pin rap anchor. 🙃 It really puts the true FA party in a pickle in that if they climb to the summit or a logical finish out of sight of the ground, they really have to publish to prevent or diminish the likelihood of such second, first ascent retro anchoring...but of course in publishing the route or area, you invite in more insta FB image lifestyle goobers/pricks. fuggin people.

A valid position and I get it.

If the FA party can let go of any sense of "rights" to a line unpublished, and forget about route ownership entirely, they win, imo.

Just let it go. Who cares if they short dicked an unnamed and unknown route?

But if establishing recognition for a route is important, than one must make others aware of it, no?

It reminds me of the old saw from Dr. Strangelove - what's the use of having a Doomsday Machine if you don't tell anyone you have it?

DMT
jeff constine

Trad climber
Ao Namao
Mar 15, 2019 - 07:31am PT
I rapped down Refiners F to have a look, the holds were dime edges wall was STEEP. did not look passable.
WBraun

climber
Mar 15, 2019 - 07:41am PT
curious as to why Bachar supposedly used a crowbar on "Thriller"

In a nutshell ....

Crucial hold that was flexing was later reinforced with glue.

The same hold was also used to gain the Force to the left of Thriller.

Miraculously the broken hold still allowed both boulder problems to be done after the crowbarring although became a bit more difficult.

Kauk did the first ascent of Thriller after John repeatedly failed to do it over time.

I was Kauk's spotter the day he did Thriller.

Now Kauk got the FA of both of these highly sought after boulder problems (at the Time), Midnight Lightning and Thriller.

After the reinforcement of glue to the hold and after the Punchline fiasco (smashed bolt hangers) John felt again he needed to take some imaginary command.

Chappy caught him with the crowbar red handed coming from Thriller.

I goes far deeper and you don't don't need to know that far ......
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 15, 2019 - 07:47am PT
Hubbard...I donít question Buhl and I didnít question Maestri. They both had enviable records of accomplishments in the mountains. When I climbed the first part of Maestriís claimed route on Cerro Torre on my way to Torre Egger I found that, in fact, he did lie. His lie is almost the exception that proves the rule...the confirmed lies in alpinism over the past century can be counted on the fingers of one hand. By the way, I still have no reason to doubt Buhl.

When someone ckaims to have done something far and away beyond what they have done in the past that is unwitnessed, I have every reason to have doubt.
BJ

climber
Mar 15, 2019 - 08:11am PT
When someone ckaims to have done something far and away beyond what they have done in the past that is unwitnessed, I have every reason to have doubt.

Kind of like when somebody claims to have gone two days without milkin' the lizard
Murf

climber
Mar 15, 2019 - 08:25am PT
I'd love to hear if anyone has actually sent this rig (and I mean anyone ):

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106704943/zen

Enhanced holds:

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/114573342/new-reality
stevep

Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
Mar 15, 2019 - 09:06am PT
I haven't seen Refiner's Fire, nor do I know Louie.

However, I do know Boone well, and climbed with him a fair amount. His technique is very good, and at that point in time, he was about as good as anyone around at climbing on small holds. So his view that it wasn't doable would hold a fair amount of wight with me.
dee ee

Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
Mar 15, 2019 - 12:11pm PT
Those were the days.
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Mar 15, 2019 - 12:33pm PT
WBraun ^^^

Thanks for filling in the gaps. Interesting and curious.
HM.
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