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WBraun
climber
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Mar 15, 2019 - 07:41am PT
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curious as to why Bachar supposedly used a crowbar on "Thriller"
In a nutshell ....
Crucial hold that was flexing was later reinforced with glue.
The same hold was also used to gain the Force to the left of Thriller.
Miraculously the broken hold still allowed both boulder problems to be done after the crowbarring although became a bit more difficult.
Kauk did the first ascent of Thriller after John repeatedly failed to do it over time.
I was Kauk's spotter the day he did Thriller.
Now Kauk got the FA of both of these highly sought after boulder problems (at the Time), Midnight Lightning and Thriller.
After the reinforcement of glue to the hold and after the Punchline fiasco (smashed bolt hangers) John felt again he needed to take some imaginary command.
Chappy caught him with the crowbar red handed coming from Thriller.
I goes far deeper and you don't don't need to know that far ......
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 15, 2019 - 07:47am PT
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Hubbard...I don’t question Buhl and I didn’t question Maestri. They both had enviable records of accomplishments in the mountains. When I climbed the first part of Maestri’s claimed route on Cerro Torre on my way to Torre Egger I found that, in fact, he did lie. His lie is almost the exception that proves the rule...the confirmed lies in alpinism over the past century can be counted on the fingers of one hand. By the way, I still have no reason to doubt Buhl.
When someone ckaims to have done something far and away beyond what they have done in the past that is unwitnessed, I have every reason to have doubt.
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stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
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Mar 15, 2019 - 09:06am PT
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I haven't seen Refiner's Fire, nor do I know Louie.
However, I do know Boone well, and climbed with him a fair amount. His technique is very good, and at that point in time, he was about as good as anyone around at climbing on small holds. So his view that it wasn't doable would hold a fair amount of wight with me.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Mar 15, 2019 - 12:11pm PT
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Those were the days.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mar 15, 2019 - 12:33pm PT
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WBraun ^^^
Thanks for filling in the gaps. Interesting and curious.
HM.
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