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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Mar 14, 2019 - 06:35am PT
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Louie Anderson on Refiner’s Fire with a Stanley claw hammer? Circa ‘94?
If I got the climber right, he’s been linked to the whole brewhaha in Tensleep recently.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 14, 2019 - 06:38am PT
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Trashman for the win!
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Mar 14, 2019 - 06:55am PT
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Whoa. That's a seriously insecure DB. Sad character.
BAd
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Mill Valley, Ca
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Mar 14, 2019 - 07:22am PT
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“Refiner’s Liar”... LOL!
https://www.outsideonline.com/1834626/allow-me-be-first-congratulate-you-your-stunning-achievement-damn-you
Louie Anderson
THE BOAST: I conquered one of the nation's toughest climbing routes
PROBLEM IS: Experts say it can't be climbed
In the summer of 1995, Anderson shimmied up Refiner's Fire, a 20-degree overhanging wall near Barstow, California, that at the time was one of only two 5.14b climbing routes in America. Or so he says. Unfortunately, Anderson has no video, no track record, no proof. What he has is his word, which was good enough to initially net him considerable fanfare in the sport-climbing world. In the years since, however, many elite rock-jocks have taken a hard look at the wall and a hard look at the 31-year-old Anderson, and have come to a different conclusion. Their new name for the route: Refiner's Liar. "On his best day, the guy couldn't even come close to climbing it," says Randy Leavitt, a former training partner of Anderson's. A highly regarded sport climber, Leavitt himself tried the route and failed. Then he dangled $1,000 in front of Anderson simply to repeat the feat (with cameras rolling). Anderson declined. So Leavitt asked Boone Speed, who had redpointed the nation's only other 5.14b, what he could make of Refiner's. "Randy figured if anyone could do it, I could," shrugs Speed. He couldn't: "You'd almost have to be a fly to climb that wall." Anderson dismisses the attempts to vet his story; it took a year and a half of study to manage the 19 moves on the smooth, granite face, he says. "It's not a clear-cut thing that you're going to be able to repeat it every time," Anderson insists. Thus it seems his feat will go unconfirmed. Which is fine with him. "I don't care if anyone thinks I'm kick-ass or not," Anderson says. "I'm comfortable with the truth
I remember hearing that Boone Speed couldn’t even hang on some of the holds. Good stuff!
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Mar 14, 2019 - 07:26am PT
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I recall it was Randy Leavitt (?) who Child is referring to here - roped up with him in the gym and observed the man in action, then quickly, and probably quite accurately, determined there was just no way. Randy then posted a letter somewhere - the mags, maybe rec.climbing - and just a few days later the route was destroyed.
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Mill Valley, Ca
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Mar 14, 2019 - 07:36am PT
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It was a letter published in Climbing Magazine. From what I understand, this would have represented a huge jump in difficulty for the FA-ist.
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2019 - 08:08am PT
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Thanks for the feedback and just WOW. And this guy is still out there doing his 5hit? Makes Ken Nichols look like Bambi in the Jungle. Well, maybe not.
Louie Anderson :)
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 14, 2019 - 08:15am PT
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Bachar hammered bolt hangers flat and used a crowbar to rip crucial hold off thriller to try and make it so no one could do it anymore ...
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Mill Valley, Ca
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Mar 14, 2019 - 08:24am PT
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As long as we're besmirching the deceased, I'm pretty sure Michael Reardon did KNOTT do an onsight free solo of Romantic Warrior!
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Mar 14, 2019 - 08:31am PT
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👨❤️👨💩
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Mar 14, 2019 - 09:15am PT
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All from way back in the day when you could be a pro with a considerably higher mix of BS than actual achievement. Seems with the modern spread of incredibly detailed information and videos on training and the resulting sends - genetics and available time are now the most important - there's far less BS.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mar 14, 2019 - 09:20am PT
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It's obvious why Anderson destroyed his supposed route.
Why did Bachar do the same thing on Thriller?
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Mar 14, 2019 - 09:36am PT
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All from way back in the day when you could be a pro with a considerably higher mix of BS than actual achievement.
^^^^ Clearly not familiar with the “Instagram Influencers”.
Do you know what a cam is? Mildly photogenic(don’t worry, filters and golden hour light do the heavy lifting)? Then you too could be the face of an advertising campaign. *Apply at your local guide service to help cover non gear costs.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 14, 2019 - 10:12am PT
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Ego, hubris, fabricated tales of ascent...all a potent mix in the climbing numbers game.
Come to think of it...similar events have happened in the alpine world.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Mar 14, 2019 - 10:18am PT
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Hammering off holds has gone on at the Traprock/choss in Connecticut as far back as the 1940s
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Cragar
climber
MSLA - MT
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Mar 14, 2019 - 10:21am PT
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Maybe he was tweakin' when he 'did' it?
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Mar 14, 2019 - 10:34am PT
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So it is possible it was never hammered. My recollection is there were fresh scars all over the route after the hammering. Think about it - no sh!t someone would have been able to tell the difference and there'd be no controversy.
The Leavitt article was pretty funny. This is where the $1k was offered. His primary evidence was Louis' falling off an 11b warmup in the climbing gym or some such. It's a worthy article, and it was just a few days later the holds were hammered. Someone should dig it up and post it to one of these Ten Sleep threads.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Mar 14, 2019 - 11:02am PT
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Dumbing down of climbing and manufacturing routes in an area like Ten Sleep demonstrates the ongoing cultural shift in outdoor climbing. While climbers have crossed many "lines" over the years, this activity is unjustified and unforgivable. But, I fear that it will set a new "baseline" [low] of what is considered acceptable.
On a side rant, when did we surrender so profoundly to Facebook? It seems that we can't sign on to comment on the R&I's article/website to express concerns without doing this through FB. Haven't we had enough of its crap?
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Mar 14, 2019 - 12:06pm PT
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Werner - like Walleye, I don't remember bolts on Thriller. There was lots of press about JB popping off some glue-reinforced holds on The Force next door to Thriller...
EDIT: Ken (below) is right. Have to parse Werner's comment carefully
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