Buttermilks poop house? COME ON WTF?


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Gym climber
South of Heaven
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 9, 2012 - 02:12am PT
Chitty hole man, the milks are getting HAMMERED with poop. Seriously folks, we have GOT to work with the BLM to get a pooper up there. The arguments I have heard for not putting one up there are:

1) it would destroy the scenic beauty of the area if it was in the upper parking lot

2) it would be too far away for lazy ass pad people if it were in the parking area below the Poobodies.

3) it will lead to development and pay camping.

Those are lame ass arguments considering how many people are camping out there (expanding campsites, destroying vegetation) and shitting all over the place (within 20 feet of campsites and boulders many times).

So what's up? Is anything being planned or even discussed?

Obviously I'm not the person to do it, I have no organizational skillz and nobody likes me.

Do any hordes plan to mob the place (Pretzl, etc)? If so, it would be great if we could convince them to help spearhead a composting or even pit toilet. I'd be happy to pitch in.

I asked our father CMac to resurrect me only because I felt this needed to be addressed. The only thing I could find is from Mr. Wills last year... http://bishopbouldering.blogspot.com/2011/07/buttermilk-pit-toilet-comments-needed.html.

Don't leave this hanging... come on!

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Dec 9, 2012 - 02:19am PT
Roger that.

Is Lesley Yen still with the FS?
Does her email still work?


Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Dec 9, 2012 - 02:28am PT

Jebus H Bomz

Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 9, 2012 - 03:33am PT
On the CMac front, my personal experience trying to communicate with him about bannings is he plays the man behind the curtain very well. Complete radio silence when I attempted to, anyway. So, you are resurrected? Or is this just a stopgap?

Good on ya either way, Wes, I missed you around the campfire here. The fact you actually participate in the real climbing community should count for something. I hope the project goes forward.

Dec 9, 2012 - 03:35am PT
There were sites & a proposal awhile back on Wils blog I think. U mean getting bad like there's sh#t in the main areas? This fall I was disappointed to see so much sh#t near the boulders, I'd love to catch a scene like this in the act. It's unfortunate to see such beautiful places can go to sh#t so easily. The bishop situ is especially sad since about 100% of the offending shitters are traveling climbers & the local community is a really great, dedicated group of climbers that have to come up with these solutions. Maybe the local access group could set up a volley day over the holidays or thanksgiving when there's lots of visitors & shitting predicted & hand out shovels to the visitors in the Bday lot & get one dug, I'm sure BLM would be willing to listen? Maybe a sign in english/french/german? at either entrance could help in the meantime & easily done by one able bodies individual. A crag near here has had sh#t problems in the past from travelers who didn't get it & now there's no sh#t signs everywhere & they seem to be helping. The milks is one of my favorite places in the world & I've been lucky to spend some of the funnest days there, i hope for those that are lucky enough to have this place at their disposal can find a way to effectively deal with this sh#t.

Edit- didn't see the link up there.

Trad climber
Dec 9, 2012 - 06:39am PT

wag bags, everywhere, every time

at least until the government comes to our rescue


Gym climber
Dec 9, 2012 - 09:31am PT
How about YOU TAKE your own poop tubes, wag bags and or 5 gallon bucket with a seat on it up there yourself. Why in the hell does a toilet need to be in there. That results in a pumper truck once a week or more up there.


Trad climber
BackInTheDitch BackInTheDirt BackInTheDay
Dec 9, 2012 - 09:51am PT
Hear! Hear!

Ya know. . . there are a lot of climbers who are babes in the woods and know nothing about how to conduct themselves out there. Every climber should be required to the a Girl or Boy Scout for at least a year before they're allowed to venture forth into the UNDEVELOPED!

For outdoor based recreationists, some climbers and most Alpine skiers SUCK when it comes to preparedness!


Dec 9, 2012 - 11:17am PT
People could start by leaving they're dogs at home!!

And what Silver said, I don't want a toilet up there, figure out how to do it responsibly!

DOUBLE EDIT: Have you seen the 'outhouse' in the central gorge lately? Well the door has been f'd up for several years, you could lock yourself in there, and the toilet went to not having a seat on it for a few years, so you had to hover and drop, NOW there is just an empty building with a hole in the floor, the whole stainless toilet rig is no longer there.
this just in

north fork
Dec 9, 2012 - 11:24am PT
Sh#t yeah, good sh#t to see the weschrist is back from the dead. When in bishop I do all my shittn at schatts. Coffee, cranberry muffin, then to their clean bathroom.

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Dec 9, 2012 - 11:31am PT
That's not even honest dirt bagging. That's just plain irresponsible.
I don't understand how one could care so little. What 'generation' do these people belong to?
The Sh!thead Generation?

Trad climber
Dec 9, 2012 - 11:38am PT
How about simple composting toilets like at smith rocks?

Truckee, CA
Dec 9, 2012 - 11:45am PT
Its just the sheer volume of use that makes a shitter of some kind necessary. Place is busy as sh#t and just getting busier. Something needs to happen to accommodate the whole bouldering boom before it becomes out of control and is too expensive to manage. Id rather see the honey sucker truck going up and down the road than see sh#t on my shoes as i wander around looking for a place to sh#t.

Better yet, go enjoy one of the many many other bouldering areas. Plenty of room to sh#t all over the place.

Way out there....
Dec 9, 2012 - 11:50am PT
There are plans, it is being worked on. Please be patient, the locals are....
The most logical place for it is in the first turn out right below the pea bodies. I will not allow a shitter to be placed in the birthdays parking area or in view of the boulders.

Dec 9, 2012 - 11:59am PT
I will not allow a shitter to be placed

Are you trying to say it's your decision?
Lurking Fear

Boulder climber
Bishop, California
Dec 9, 2012 - 12:03pm PT
I'm with Jason. The Birthday Boulder area is the worst possible place at the Buttermilks. Upwind and in one of the most beautiful view sheds on the Eastside. I hope it's his decision. Thanks, Andrew

Trad climber
Dec 9, 2012 - 12:27pm PT
And there is also the poor man's wag bag(if one is purchasing wag bags) - a simply shopping bag from the grocery store. Make sure there are no holes, of course, and double up if needed.

If it's going to be an easy pick up - do your duty and then put the bag on your hand like a mitt. Pick it up - just as you would dog duty.

If it's going to be a less easy pick up, lay down some newspaper, hold in place with stones, do your business and then use the four corners retrieval method(pick up by corners, allowing the weighted center to drop down. Drop into the plastic bag.

If it's going to be an abysmal clean up - change your diet!

Tie the handle into a knot, removing air as doing so. Again - double bag if you will not be getting to a depository soon. It's just poop, not poison. Your car will not become contaminated to have a poop bag in it(if you feel that it would - change your diet!).

Does a Climber Sh#t in The Woods(or Desert, Mountains or Roadside Crag)? NOT if (s)he is a responsible climber. Pack it out!


Gym climber
South of Heaven
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 9, 2012 - 02:13pm PT
I see things haven't changed much... stupidtaco folks still just as detached from reality.

silver, no way in hell you are going to get that many people to sh#t in bags. Simply ain't going to happen. Time to start being realistic about it or the area will just continue to suffer. A pumper truck once a week doesn't even BEGIN to compare to the 50+ cars that pack the sides of the road.

dave, spurt climbers can't even manage the toilet in the gorge, but you expect them to be responsible enough to sh#t in a bag and carry it out? And who is going to enforce it when they refuse? Wake up man. It is called Tragedy of the Commons... look into it. People need to be regulated or our shared resources will suffer. If we build it, people will use it.

If cost is the big issue, charge $3 a day, I don't care... it will weed out the scumbags who are unwilling to give up 1/30 of their pot fund to go climbing.

I love the idea of a composting toilet. I used to look forward to my post warmup sh#t at Smith... ah, the smell of fresh warm moist cedar.

(fwiw, I didn't ask CMac directly... I just got another account... but being the failed carpenter and aspiring savior that I am, I liked the "our father... resurrected bit)
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Dec 9, 2012 - 02:34pm PT
Aren't you supposed to smear it all over a boulder so it dries up quickly and blows away ?


Gym climber
South of Heaven
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 9, 2012 - 02:52pm PT
Yes, preferably in the direct sun light... a nice long rail that is exposed to the wind and bakes in the sun all day long...

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