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Lover's Leap, East Wall


Lake Tahoe, California, USA


Trip Report
Lost and Found at the Leap (+ lots of photos)
Monday May 12, 2008 12:08am
(If you lost a jacket in the parking lot, Sat. evening, I picked it up. Give me the details, and I'll get it to you somehow.)

So, after living in the Tahoe/Truckee area for like, 100 years, I guess it's high time I made my way down to Lover's Leap. This weekend was my initiation. Dikes!!!!!


Despite the crowds, we started with an empty Haystack:


Good stuff, and we managed to score a few booty nuts and a biner on the route, true to Leap fashion. Back at the base, our luck seemed to be holding, as Bear's Reach was empty. Ah, but Luck was merely toying with us, and when we got there, I discovered that I'd managed to lose a shoe on the descent! I backtracked all the way to the top of Haystack, scouring the woods and chaparral I'd bushwacked, but no dice. Found A LOT of rattlesnakes however, including this beauty:


After burning up entirely too much time looking for my shoe, we headed back to the truck for the 18 year-old spares, figuring we'd look for the missing shoe on the next lap down. The spares are a little beat up, as you can see here:


By the time we got back to Bear's Reach, we had to wait for another party, but eventually we headed up. I got the 2nd pitch, and something about zero confidence in my feet, combined with 9 out of 10 placements being behind a hollow flake, caused me to savor it a little less than I'd expected. Bushy Ledge was a party, but there were cute girls and friendly folks, so it was alright. But it did mean more waiting.


Might as well take in the sights. Here my partner, Zach, scopes somebody getting their exposure, way over on Traveller's Buttress


From the top, we scoured the top slabs and chap once again, and amazingly I found the little bastard hidden on the ground down under some hucklberry oak. As suspected, my worn-out old pull tab had blown:


With just a little daylight left, we did Pop Bottle, scrambling to the top with no light to spare. By the time we got back to the parking lot, even the moon had gone around the corner, and it was good and dark.


That's when I found the jacket (~9:15). I had had a busy Friday, and was wholly unprepared to feed myself dinner, so we blitzed back to that pizza place just south of the S. Lake "Y", and got our order in by 9:50, ten minutes to spare. We split a large Gut Buster and a couple of S.N. Pale Ales. The Gut Buster, though tasty, was as advertised. For the next 12 hours or so I experienced horrible belches and the occasional vurp; I did not sleep well. Zach had to split mid-day on Sunday, so we got up pretty early and headed for Surrealistic Pillar


There was still a bit of snow at the base.


And Zach turned into a zombie.


Maybe he was just mesmerized at the size of the dikes I was pulling on. I'm still not sure how I feel about all this dike business. I guess it's nice to have something to grab onto, step onto, mantel onto, etc., but I kept thinking about breaking my ankles. Here Zach tiptoes out a dike on P2.


And sets up for a reachy mantel, far from gear.


All 5-foot, 7 and 3/4 -inches of me was content to have a toprope for a few of those moves. When I lead that pitch, I'm bringing a big cam or two and stickin' to the OW in the corner! More my style anyway. After we topped out Plan A was Corrugation Corner, but it was looking like a sh*t show expedition in progress. There was a party of three on the route with three ropes(!!), backpacks, etc., and another party was nearing the base. Plan B, Hospital Corner, but then we realized we lacked adequate cordage for the rappels. Plus, crowds seemed to be forming at the base of everything we could see. Time to head for some sun anyway, so we went to check out Better With Bacon. One party on route seemed to be worth waiting for, and before too long I was up there wishing I had some RPs or something useful. That seam is thin. I strung the 1st two pitches with rope to spare. But then Zach strung the next two pitches, which were NOT 170', contra the ST topo. CMac's topo shows a 90' P3 and a 80' P4. Now, I'm no math genius, but a 60m ought to cover that pretty handily. I stood on the bolts but figured it was safer to just move up about ten feet. Zach made it to the anchor without incident, but be advised, and Zach ran an almost perfectly straight rope. Here's a shot from early on P3


I'm also curious how many people completely miss the bolt right below the third set of anchors. Might be fun to go that way, and I suppose the route is supposed to, but if you're following your feet, the natural line definitely steers you around to the right. Seems like a silly place for a bolt. In contrast the last bolt before the 4th anchors is perfectly placed. The fifth pitch could stand to see a little more traffic (dirty), but it was fun and gave a great view up top.


Overall, some great routes, and a great weekend! I'm sure I'll be back (but maybe not on a weekend).

  Trip Report Views: 1,220
Willoughby
About the Author
Willoughby is a social climber from Truckee, CA.

Comments
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Comment on this Trip Report
tooth

Trad climber
B.C.
  May 12, 2008 - 12:14am PT
nice!
couchmaster

climber
  May 12, 2008 - 12:16am PT
Love the pics! Thanks for sharing, the Leap rules, you folks are so lucky.

Does anyone know what kind of Rattlesnake that is, BTW?

Nevermind: Western Rattlesnake. (Not Western Diamondback... interesting)

From here: http://www.californiaherps.com/identification/snakesid/snakes.id.html

murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
  May 12, 2008 - 12:16am PT
SWEET tr and amazing pix. these can't be just a point'n'shoot on auto mode, can they?
valygrl

climber
Boulder, CO
  May 12, 2008 - 12:20am PT
" a reachy mantle, far from gear. "

perfect
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  May 12, 2008 - 12:22am PT
thanks Willoughby, nice TR
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
  May 12, 2008 - 12:34am PT
Great Tr and pics and a beautiful shot of the Local ( viper).. Klaus posted a pic of a similar snake last year, most of the one's I've seen are much darker.Like a piece of Manzanita with X's that's moving. I've seen the lighter colored ones ( babies) in the parking lot but usually they are the darker varieties and I found them early in the day when they where still sluggish,. Maybe with the Global warming there are some changes afoot, How was his temperament? Mild and leave me alone or who the Phuck are you?
climbrunride

Sport climber
Golf Wall, CO
  May 12, 2008 - 12:42am PT
Nice Tr. Great pics. Way to go!
Willoughby

Social climber
Truckee, CA
Author's Reply  May 12, 2008 - 01:17am PT
Lots of interest in the snake, so here are a few more:





He was little, maybe 20-24", and FRESH. I walked right past it, and then Zach noticed it from the air, after instinct had sprung him straight up several feet. This snake rattled a lot, as he was just trying to cross the damn trail, and I was actively trying to get him to pose for a photo. Zach and I both commented that neither of us had ever seen such a strongly patterned rattlesnake, anywhere, and I think it was just by virtue of how freshly molted it was. I could be wrong though. We saw another about twenty feet down the trail, basking in the middle of it. That one was nearly black and about four feet long, and a couple of handclaps sent him on his way, thankfully.

Since Murcy was asking about the camera, I should add that these are my first attempts at taking a camera along on multi-pitch climbs. Just a Pentax Optio W10. Foolishly I left it set to "landscape" mode for a lot of pictures (which means longer exposures for greater depth of field), so most of action pics came out really blurry; more than a few good ones got away (Sorry Zach!!). There's been a teeny bit of photoshop salvage above, but mostly it's just point, shoot, upload, post.
slobmonster

Trad climber
OAK (nee NH)
  May 12, 2008 - 01:17am PT
We must have bumped into you twice: once Saturday, as my friends and I were lounging in the sun, watching a part climb Fantasia, and y'all were on a shoe mission; and today, Sunday, we were climbing Hospital Corner, and shared some comments re: the sh!t show on Corrugation.

Glad you figured out something fun to do.

BTW, and on topic, you consider your "new" shoes a pair of black Boreal Aces? Friend, those were "new" in the 80s.
Willoughby

Social climber
Truckee, CA
Author's Reply  May 12, 2008 - 01:29am PT
Slobmonster-
I never said they were my "new" shoes, just my good shoes. Say, thanks for sparing us the grief of rapping down Hospital Corner and coming up short!
Trad

Trad climber
northern CA
  May 12, 2008 - 01:47am PT
Great TR!

My partner and I also encountered a rattlesnake on our way down from East Crack this afternoon. I was plodding along when I heard a weird buzzing (is that someone's phone?) and looked around to discover Mr. Rattlesnake about 6 inches from my ankle. I appreciated the warning...
Willoughby

Social climber
Truckee, CA
Author's Reply  May 12, 2008 - 12:55pm PT
Still-would-like-to-return-this-jacket-to-its-owner-bump
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
  May 12, 2008 - 02:12pm PT
Nice TR Willoughby.
Watch out for those snakes--man, they're bad news. Look
at Sean Jones just gettin' bit while he was bouldering
a short while back. . .
Willoughby

Social climber
Truckee, CA
Author's Reply  May 12, 2008 - 09:05pm PT
Last bump for the jacket...
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  May 12, 2008 - 09:14pm PT
"Great snakes!"

Thanks for the TR.
Jay Wood

Trad climber
Land of God-less fools
  May 13, 2008 - 01:36am PT
Thanks for the TR & pics.

Campground open? Have to pay?
slobmonster

Trad climber
OAK (nee NH)
  May 13, 2008 - 02:45am PT
The Lover's Leap campground IS open; fees will not be required till 5/22 (at least, that's what all the signs say).
bookworm

Social climber
Falls Church, VA
  May 13, 2008 - 06:58am PT
what, no pics of the "cute girls"?
msiddens

Trad climber
  May 13, 2008 - 02:22pm PT
Ha, great TR. I met you at the base of East wall after the lost shoe incident. Glad you found it and salvaged a great weekend.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  May 13, 2008 - 02:51pm PT
Willoughby, I am part of the group that was on Corrugation Corner you refered to as the Expedition with 3 ropes. I am also the same person you ran into on hogwild as you were downclimbing. We talked and I said I thought it was great that this was your first trip to the leap.
First off you have no place making reference to an Expedition on CC or as you said a sh#t storm. Our style that must have upset you included (2) ropes not 3, Simul toproping the two followers and a finishing time of 1.5 hours. I believe it took you two a couple of hours on S Pillar. No problem your new to the leap and obvioiusly too busy placing pro and taping your hands to incorporate speed into your day.
If you ever have anything to say to a fellow climber, say it at the parking lot,dont blab about sh#t on the internet in a TR that was to say the least pretty standard for everyone that climbs at the leap, You do not belong at the leap, it is reserved for climbers who respect others on all facets of the sport. I don't appreciate slander and when I see you at the leap again we will have a chance to speak face to face.
mucci

Orion

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
  May 13, 2008 - 03:29pm PT
WHAAAA, you hurt my little feelins
Willoughby

Social climber
Truckee, CA
Author's Reply  May 13, 2008 - 03:48pm PT
Sheeeesh. Sorry. Sorry. Sorry. Wow. Relax, everybody. I'm just trying to return somebody's lost jacket and post a few photos I thought folks might enjoy, but a few folks, online and off, have completely locked in on what I thought was a very minor aside about backpacks, a quantity of ropes, partners, and whatnot. Turns out that accusing people of climbing with backpacks or in parties larger than two is slanderous!!! In the interest of full disclosure, we climbed with a pack on Better w/ Bacon, and while on Bear's Reach we got passed by a party of three on East Crack, simuling the seconds (hence the wait at the Bushy Ledge). Mucci, if you got off in 1.5 hours, then there's NO WAY you were the party we saw. But regardless, it was somebody, and I didn't mean to offend anybody. I was just grumbling about the crowds, especially since my partner had to leave mid-day. My point wasn't a critique of anybody's style, or speed, or anything for that matter; we just didn't have time to wait at the base for the climb to open up. That was OUR problem (if you could even call it a problem) for wanting to hop on a very popular climb on a busy weekend, not the other parties'. I recognize that and blame nobody, despite the popular misconception. Maybe if we'd gotten through Surrealistic Pillar faster, but we didn't. You're right - too busy taping I guess. But I'm not sweatin' it. We just went to do something else. So, I'm sorry if my colorful description of a busy climb offended some people. Next time I'll just say "it looked crowded." Hope all you guys enjoyed Corrugation; I'm sure I'll get on it sooner or later myself.
Respectfully,
Will Richardson
Truckee

PS - Mucci, if you still wanna arm wrestle or something (since you pretty much threw down the glove here), I'm sure we can work something out.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Maestro, Ecosystem Ministry, Fatcrackistan
  May 13, 2008 - 03:50pm PT
Kick ASSSSsssssssss (Tm)


DMT
Brock

Trad climber
RENO, NV
  May 13, 2008 - 04:43pm PT
Almost put my foot down on one of those cute little Western Rattlers while hiking down from the top of Lover's Leap...They blend in really nice to the ground...THink I jumped back about three feet and don't even remember doing so. We tried to get him to rattle, but he just wanted to be left alone and wondered off into the brush.

Yup MANY snakes at the Leap!!!

Someone once told me there are no Rattle snakes at Donner...Well, my buddy had one in the crack at the top of One Hand Clapping...Don't know how much to believe him, as I have never seen or heard one all the times I have been to Donner.
Morris Bird III

climber
Cleveland, OH
  May 13, 2008 - 05:00pm PT
d'jew know "Traveller's" Buttress is really "Traveller" Buttress?

's true.
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
Fresno
  May 13, 2008 - 05:30pm PT
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  May 13, 2008 - 07:50pm PT
I WANT TO JOUST!
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
  May 13, 2008 - 08:21pm PT
Try some Peeps jousting. Kill off lots of surrogates.
stich

Trad climber
Colorado Springs, Colorado
  May 13, 2008 - 08:40pm PT
But he tasks me, and I shall have him!



KHAN!!!!



Nice TR and route topo on the other thread. Steelmonkey really cleaned it up nice, too.

Wotta deal!
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
  May 14, 2008 - 01:11am PT
TR bump.... nice one! (mini bump for the slaggin' too)
Ezra

Social climber
WA, NC, Idaho Falls
  May 20, 2008 - 08:00pm PT
Thanks!
-e
L

climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
  May 22, 2008 - 03:01pm PT
This was one really great TR, Willoughby, and the photos were excellent. Thanks for taking the time to write it up.

Especially liked the rattlesnake shots. Man, that guy was gorgeous! Freshly peeled...that was good.




Listen, as far as you and your disagreement with Mucci goes...Target has these awesome Incredible Hulk boxing gloves for sale now. They're about 10 times the size of a man's fist, padded like a looney bin, and covered in glowing green Incredible Hulk-looking soft-as-silk fabric.

And the best thing? When they hit something, they make these Crash! Klonk! Grrrrrrr! KaPowwie! noises--and they're loud.

So you get all the joy of physically beating the crap outta someone, complete with all those delightfully terrifying sounds...but don't have to deal with any of the pain or inevitable lawsuits.

(Besides, arm wrestling and jousting are so passé, so 1600's...)
Willoughby

Social climber
Truckee, CA
Author's Reply  May 22, 2008 - 03:51pm PT
Thanks for the tip L; not sure that's the best use of my $16.99. Anyway, I gots no beef, but am always up for friendly competition. Not really sure what Mucci had in mind with that jousting business (I see your schwartz is as big as mine?), but arm wrastlin' is NOT passé, it's over the top! Just need to make sure you get enough calcium:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zq7dyrih9R8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1F4m1gnh7AM&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WRt8hd26cak&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=75wvde9JN8g&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JeoeZnNl28M&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dh6VcPCgZZ0&feature=related
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  May 22, 2008 - 04:21pm PT
The Hulk gloves sound great, only if the bout was at the top of hogsback. Or a few beers at the parking lot.

L

climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
  May 22, 2008 - 04:34pm PT
Not sure how you can pass these squishy gems up, Willoughby, especially since Mucci kinda likes the idea...




(Just trying to keep the found-jacket thing alive...:-)
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
  May 22, 2008 - 04:41pm PT
L, you obviously have not seen enough Peeps jousting.

Take 2 marshmallow Easter chickies (Peeps)
insert toothpick into breast of each Peep to serve as lance
place onto paper plate, facing each other with tip of lance
an inch away from rival's breast
place in microwave oven at unknown power level
let the jousting begin

If you use full power the Peeps will expand greatly and burn.
At the right power level the Peeps will contract and regroup
during lulls in power, then renew their attack during the surges.
L

climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
  May 22, 2008 - 07:08pm PT
Scuffy,

Got photos?



Sounds hysterical...
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
  May 22, 2008 - 07:24pm PT
Sorry, no pictures. It truly is hysterical.
When you've figured out the right power level and distance
between combatants they can go through multiple cycles of
Almost Getting each other, then they cool off and deflate.
But they're still circling each other, and the audience can
supply tough-guy dialog.
When one or both get killed, just kill some more. Cannon fodder.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Mar 15, 2012 - 01:42am PT
Been there once but need to go back. so much fun.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Mar 17, 2012 - 08:12pm PT
Glad no body got snake bit!
Thanks!
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