Bear's Reach, Lover's Leap, East Wall 5.7
Avg time to climb route: 3 hours
Approach time: 15 minutes
Descent time: 15 minutes
Number of pitches: 3
Height of route: 400'
OverviewThis must-do climb offers more than a few memorable face and crack moves. The name comes from the second pitch crux where, depending on your height, you must make a huge “Bear’s Reach” between two large holds. The first half of the climb links together a variety of short cracks with face moves while the second half follows a series of corners. This route is just shy of being runout in sections and is only recommended for the confident 5.7 leader.
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StrategyThe first pitch is the most serious on the climb. After getting gear 10 feet up, you must go 15 feet to the next gear. Save the bigger cams for the large steep flake at the end of the pitch. The comfy belay ledge is surrounded by dangerously hollow rock and a climber died when his anchor pulled. Back up the belay with gear up high and left, then wedge your rump firmly in the ledge.
Exhilarating face and flake moves on Pitch 2. Place pro at every opportunity, especially in the first 30 feet before the namesake Bear’s Reach. Here, with pro at your feet, either deadpoint to a jug or face climb up small holds. When setting the belay at “(Once a) Bushy Ledge,” keep in mind that other climbers may join you from converging routes. For the third pitch beta, see East Crack.
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