Haystack, Lover's Leap, East Wall 5.8

   
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Lake Tahoe, California, USA

  • Currently 4.0/5
Avg time to climb route: 3 hours
Approach time: 15 minutes
Descent time: 15 minutes
Number of pitches: 3
Height of route: 400'
Overview
Second to The Line, Haystack takes one of the most striking crack systems on the East Wall and ascends a diversity of terrain from straight in jamming to face moves and roofs. Haystack is defined by a wild 4-foot roof move on the second pitch which is one the more memorable roofs at The Leap. With only two short crux sections, this is a great intro to the 5.8 realm.
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Climber Beta on Haystack
  A total of (23) submissions of route beta on Haystack
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Strategy
The first pitch warms you up with easy 5th class moves that lead to a few 5.6 jams to the belay. The second pitch starts with a 5.8 stem and finger jam crux that leads to the wild 5.8 roof. When climbed perfectly, the roof feel like 5.7, but done wrong the roof feels like 5.10. The roof eats ropes so place a cam at the lip so the ro...   [full history for SuperTopo members only!]

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Source: SuperTopo Guidebook Staff Last update: May 21, 2013
Lover's Leap, East Wall - Haystack 5.8 - Lake Tahoe, California, USA. Click to Enlarge
A view from the approach.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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Bear's Reach is one of the best 5.7's anywhere.
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The Line, 5.9
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The most striking line at The Leap.
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Pop Bottle, 5.7
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A view from the approach.
Lover's Leap, East Wall - East Wall 5.7 - Lake Tahoe, California, USA. Click for details.
East Wall, 5.7
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A view from the approach.
Lover's Leap, East Wall - East Crack 5.8 - Lake Tahoe, California, USA. Click for details.
East Crack, 5.8
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A view from the approach.
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