East Wall, Lover's Leap, East Wall 5.7
Avg time to climb route: 3 hours
Approach time: 15 minutes
Descent time: 15 minutes
Number of pitches: 2
Height of route: 400'
OverviewThis adventurous climb meanders across features rarely found on many Loverís Leap routes: a huge belay ledge, an enormous featured corner, and super-sized dikes and flakes. While the hardest moves are 5.7, the difficult routefinding and exposed moves overwhelm many climbers and have led to more than a few epics. This route is not recommended for fledgling 5.7 leaders.
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HistoryFA: Ken and Mike Edsburg, Jerry Sublette, 1964.
StrategyOn the first pitch, stem a big corner with many parallel cracks and great gear.
The second pitch is the psychological and routefinding crux. Traverse left around the corner, climb up and then left into a large left-leaning flake system. Here, there is a highly recommended, but terrifyingly exposed 5.7 or 5.6 traverse left (use slings on all gear). The standard route continues up the large flake system then moves left to a belay just before Bushy Ledge (belay on Bushy Ledge when not crowded).
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