Avg time to climb route: 3 hours
Approach time: 15 minutes
Descent time: 15 minutes
Number of pitches:
3
Height of route: 400'
Overview
East crack provides a variety of sustained 5.7 and 5.8 terrain. Because the route doesn’t have a memorable crux, it sees little traffic relative to Bear’s Reach or East Wall. With only a few 5.8 moves, this is a good entry to 5.8 and is only moderately more difficult (and better protected) than Bear’s Reach.
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Strategy
The first pitch is straightforward with one 5.7 move around the roof. The second pitch is the business: face and crack moves lead to two steep, awkward, and well protected 5.8 bulges. When crowded, belay on the far left side and high on Bushy Ledge.
The final pitch features a distinct 5.7 crux that requires stemming on poor footholds while reaching high into a 3-inch crack for a hidden incut jug. Just before the top, either set gear for a directional and escape right or continue straight up the wild 5.9 mantel variation. Belay before reaching the rim for best communication with your follower.
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Lake Tahoe
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East Crack
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Source: SuperTopo Guidebook Staff |
Last update: July 21, 2012 |
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A view from the approach. Photo: Chris McNamara
Other Routes on Lover's Leap, East Wall
| Bear's Reach, 5.7 Lover's Leap, East Wall
Bear's Reach is one of the best 5.7's anywhere. |
| The Line, 5.9 Lover's Leap, East Wall
The most striking line at The Leap. |
| Haystack, 5.8 Lover's Leap, East Wall
A view from the approach. |
| Pop Bottle, 5.7 Lover's Leap, East Wall
A view from the approach. |
| East Wall, 5.7 Lover's Leap, East Wall
A view from the approach. |
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