East Crack, Lover's Leap, East Wall 5.8

   
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Lake Tahoe, California, USA

  • Currently 3.0/5
Avg time to climb route: 3 hours
Approach time: 15 minutes
Descent time: 15 minutes
Number of pitches: 3
Height of route: 400'
Overview
East crack provides a variety of sustained 5.7 and 5.8 terrain. Because the route doesnít have a memorable crux, it sees little traffic relative to Bearís Reach or East Wall. With only a few 5.8 moves, this is a good entry to 5.8 and is only moderately more difficult (and better protected) than Bearís Reach.
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Strategy
The first pitch is straightforward with one 5.7 move around the roof. The second pitch is the business: face and crack moves lead to two steep, awkward, and well protected 5.8 bulges. When crowded, belay on the far left side and high on Bushy Ledge.

The final pitch features a distinct 5.7 crux that requires stemming on poor footholds while reaching high into a 3-inch crack for a hidden incut jug. Just before the top, either set gear for a directional and escape right or continue straight up the wild 5.9 mantel variation. Belay before reaching the rim for best communication with your follower.
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Source: SuperTopo Guidebook Staff Last update: July 21, 2012
Lover's Leap, East Wall - East Crack 5.8 - Lake Tahoe, California, USA. Click to Enlarge
A view from the approach.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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A view from the approach.
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A view from the approach.
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