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Home >> Our Guidebooks >> Zion Climbing Tuesday, March 19, 2024 

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Washington Pass Climbing
Authors: Ian Nicholson
Routes:  59 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 4th/5.2-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 248 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2012

 


Washington Pass Climbing is the most detailed climber’s guide to what is arguably the best alpine rock climbing area in the Northwest. Author Ian Nicholson included 59 of the best routes and climbed every single one to ensure accuracy of the information. Nearly 20 of the routes have never before been covered with a published topo. 

This book includes formerly obscure climbs and variations of all grades to provide more options for avoiding crowds. Included routes feature everything from short 4th class scrambles to 5.13 big walls. While the book features many hard test pieces in the region, there is a generous selection of moderate multi-pitch climbs in the 5.6-5.10 range. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
59 of the most classic climbs from the Beckey Route to Spontaneity Arête
20 never-before published topos
the best free and clean big walls, including Liberty Crack and Thin Red Line

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Washington Pass
First ascent history
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations


      View the Table of Contents (318 KB)

Review
d"Getting lost on the way to the base of any of the climbs listed in this guide would be not only embarrassing, but perhaps a sign that your routefinding might not meet the challenge of any route that notes that it will be necessary." - SummitPost Read Review

 

Try before you buy!
Weve put two of the climbs, Liberty Crack and Cutthroat Peak, South Buttress, on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, they may be the best climbing times you've ever seen!

Complete List of Included Climbs
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[ Thumbnails  | Text ]
Route Name Formation Review
Beckey Route Liberty Bell
4
II 5.7-
5 Star Rating
Liberty Crack Liberty Bell
14
5.9 C2 or 5.13b
5 Star Rating
Southwest Rib South Early Winters Spire
10
III 5.8
5 Star Rating
South Arete South Early Winters Spire
10
II 5.6
5 Star Rating
Liberty Traverse South Early Winters Spire
24
V 5.8-5.11a
5 Star Rating
Thin Red Line Liberty Bell
12
V 5.10a C2+
5 Star Rating
Clean Break Juno Tower
15
IV 5.10b/c
5 Star Rating
West Ridge Paisano Pinnacle
N/A
III 5.9-
5 Star Rating
Northwest Corner North Early Winters Spire
6
III 5.9+
5 Star Rating
North Face Concord Tower
3
II 5.7
5 Star Rating
The Hitchhiker South Early Winters Spire
9
IV 5.11b or 5.10d C1
5 Star Rating
Silver Star Glacier Silver Star Mountain
N/A
II 35 degree 4th class rock
5 Star Rating
Direct East Buttress South Early Winters Spire
10
IV 5.11a or 5.10a C0
5 Star Rating
West Face North Early Winters Spire
6
III 5.11a or 5.10a C1
5 Star Rating
East Face Lexington Tower
9
IV 5.9+
5 Star Rating
Rebel Yell Chianti Spire
7
III 5.10b
5 Star Rating
Northwest Face South Early Winters Spire
10
III 5.11a
5 Star Rating
The Southern Man South Early Winters Spire
9
IV 5.12a or 5.10a C1
5 Star Rating
Cauthorn-Wilson Cutthroat Peak
7
III WI4
5 Star Rating
The Passenger South Early Winters Spire
9
IV 5.12a
5 Star Rating
Freedom or Death Liberty Bell
14
III or V 5.12a
5 Star Rating
Rampage Paisano Pinnacle
N/A
III 5.10d
5 Star Rating
Liberty Crack Liberty Bell
14
V 5.10b C2+ or 5.13a/b
5 Star Rating
Thin Red Line Liberty Bell
14
V 5.10a or C3/A2 or 5.12b
5 Star Rating
Spontaneity Arête Le Petit Cheval
8
III 5.7
4 Star Rating
South Buttress Cutthroat Peak
12
III+ 5.8
4 Star Rating
Rapple Grapple Liberty Bell
4
II 5.8+
4 Star Rating
Early Winter Couloir North Early Winters Spire
6
III AI2-3 and M4+
4 Star Rating
North Face Burgundy Spire
4
III 5.8+
4 Star Rating
East Face Chablis Spire
4
II 5.6R
4 Star Rating
Gato Negro Whine Spire
12
IV+ 5.10d
4 Star Rating
Kearney-Thomas Big Kangaroo
8
III 5.11b or 5.10b C1
4 Star Rating
Southwest Couloir South Early Winters Spire
10
II 5.0 40º
4 Star Rating
Remsberg Variation Liberty Bell
7
II+ 5.10d
4 Star Rating
North Face Directismo Concord Tower
3
II 5.8+
4 Star Rating
Mojo Rising South Early Winters Spire
5
III 5.11b C1+
4 Star Rating
Serpentine Crack Liberty Bell
8
III 5.11b/c
4 Star Rating
Tooth and Claw Lexington Tower
8
IV 5.12a
4 Star Rating
West Face Big Kangaroo
7
II 5.6 R
4 Star Rating
North Ridge Cutthroat Peak
13
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Blue’s Buttress Poster Peak
11
III+ 5.7
3 Star Rating
The Girl Next Door Liberty Bell
4
II 5.9-
3 Star Rating
South Ridge Black Peak
N/A
II 4th Class
3 Star Rating
Northeast Ridge Black Peak
N/A
II 5.3
3 Star Rating
North Face Lexington Tower
3
II 5.7
3 Star Rating
Tunnel Route Concord Tower
3
II 5.8
3 Star Rating
Freedom Rider Liberty Bell
14
V 5.10d or 5.11b
3 Star Rating
Flycatcher Buttress North Early Winters Spire
11
IV 5.10b
3 Star Rating
Chockstone Route North Early Winters Spire
6
II+ 5.7
3 Star Rating
Northwest Face Liberty Bell
7
II+ 5.9
3 Star Rating
The First Amendement Le Petit Cheval
10
IV 5.11a
3 Star Rating
Labor Pains North Early Winters Spire
6
III 5.11a
3 Star Rating
Beckey-Tate Big Kangaroo
7
III 5.9
3 Star Rating
Action Potential Burgundy Spire
8
III 5.10c
3 Star Rating
Over Exposure Liberty Bell
4
II 5.8
3 Star Rating
East Face Minuteman Tower
6
III 5.10b
3 Star Rating
West Ridge Cutthroat Peak
9
III+ 5.7
2 Star Rating
South Face Concord Tower
3
II 5.6
2 Star Rating
Patriot Cracks Concord Tower
4
II 5.8
2 Star Rating
Ultra Mega OK Burgundy Spire
9
III+ 5.11a
2 Star Rating
South Face Kangaroo Temple
7
III 5.8
1 Star Rating
Vasliki Ridge Juno Tower
N/A




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