North Face Directismo, Concord Tower II 5.8+

   
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Washington Pass, Washington, USA

  • Currently 4.0/5
Avg time to climb route: 1-3 hours
Approach time: 1.5-3 hours
Descent time: 1.5-3 hours
Number of pitches: 3
Height of route: 300'
Overview
This is a harder and more direct one-pitch variation of the normal North Face route. This route starts part way up Pitch 2 of the North Face route. Where the North Face route heads left, North Face Directismo goes straight up. It starts with a few tricky face moves protected by a slightly flaring crack, then the climbing quickly becomes more straight-forward and the gear more abundant. While this option skips some of the fun on the North Face, you get to climb a steep, slightly intimidating-looking crack straight to the ridge.
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Strategy
While the North Face Directismo is an excellent variation to the finish on the North Face, it is much less frequently climbed. As on the North Face, crowds are unlikely, but expect to share the entire North Face with at least one other party on a busy weekend. The North Face Directismo splits from the North Face part way through Pitch 2. At the juncture where the traditional route starts traversing left, the Directismo goes straight up. The North Face Directismo is, for the most part, well-protected by a few medium to larger cams. Despite this solid protection, expect a few awkward moves near the bottom where you first leave the classic North Face. With clean falls and straightforward route finding, this is a great route for 5.7+- 5.8 leaders to push themselves. You can pull through almost all the cruxes on gear.

Retreat Storm
There are fixed anchors all over the face, so while your rappel might involve a little side-to-side swing, it is never extreme. The route gets less sun as nearby routes and can take a little longer to dry out. Early and late season, ice and snow linger on the face.
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Source: SuperTopo Guidebook Staff
Concord Tower - North Face Directismo II 5.8+ - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click to Enlarge
Concord Tower North Face
Photo: Ian Nicholson
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