North Face Directismo, Concord Tower II 5.8+

   
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Washington Pass, Washington, USA

  • Currently 4.0/5
Avg time to climb route: 1-3 hours
Approach time: 1.5-3 hours
Descent time: 1.5-3 hours
Number of pitches: 3
Height of route: 300'
Overview
This is a harder and more direct one-pitch variation of the normal North Face route. This route starts part way up Pitch 2 of the North Face route. Where the North Face route heads left, North Face Directismo goes straight up. It starts with a few tricky face moves protected by a slightly flaring crack, then the climbing quickly becomes more straight-forward and the gear more abundant. While this option skips some of the fun on the North Face, you get to climb a steep, slightly intimidating-looking crack straight to the ridge.
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Strategy
While the North Face Directismo is an excellent variation to the finish on the North Face, it is much less frequently climbed. As on the North Face, crowds are unlikely, but expect to share the entire North Face with at least one other party on a busy weekend. The North Face Directismo splits from the North Face part way through Pitch 2. At the juncture where the traditional route starts traversing left, the Directismo goes straight up. The North Face Directismo is, for the most part, well-protected by a few medium to larger cams. Despite this solid...   [full history for SuperTopo members only!]

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Source: SuperTopo Guidebook Staff
Concord Tower - North Face Directismo II 5.8+ - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click to Enlarge
Concord Tower North Face
Photo: Ian Nicholson
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