Northwest Face, South Early Winters Spire III 5.11a

   
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Washington Pass, Washington, USA

  • Currently 5.0/5
Avg time to climb route: 3-7 hours
Approach time: 1.5-3 hours
Descent time: 1.5-3 hours
Number of pitches: 10
Height of route: 800'
Overview
The Northwest Face of South Early Winters Spire is a varied and excellent climb. The more difficult sections have good protection on solid rock with a clean fall, making it a great option for those looking to break into the 5.11a grade. Even beyond the crux pitches, the Boving Roof, the famous double roof on Pitch is 5, is incredible –steep, pumpy, mostly hand-sized jamming horizontally for more than 25 feet with lots of smearing for your feet. Despite sharing the upper part of the route with the mega- popular Southwest Rib, the Northwest Face has a secluded feel with stellar views of many of the major peaks in the area.
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Route History
The Northwest Face was first climbed in October of 1976 by Paul Boving and Steve Pollock. Boving returned in July of the following year with Matt Kerns to make the first free ascent. At the time, the two were some of Washington’s strongest rock climbers. Both were responsible for many difficult routes.

Boving died in a tragic accident in 1979 while climbing Thin Fingers on the lower Index Town Wall, a route he had put up. Boving had climbed Thin Fingers twice previously but on his third ascent he fell, pulled a few pieces and hit the ledge around 30 feet off the ground, sustaining a fatal head injury. “For some reason he didn’t wear his helmet that day, even though he typically did,” recalls Matt Christensen, another talented climber from the 1970’s. About a year after Boving’s death, the cracks of Thin Fingers would become more easily protectable with a breakthrough in climbing gear – the cam. Up until the 1970s, Index was considered mostly an aid crag and Boving was one of the people at the forefront helping to change Index into more of a free climbing crag.

Boving was a UW student and Yakima native who was responsible for many of the techy 5.11 crack climbs for which Index is now known. In the late 1970’s, Boving also FFA’d ROTC (5.11c) at Midnight Rock in Leavenworth and the Boving Route (5.10c) on Dragontail Peak.

Strategy
While the 5.11 grade means it’s unlikely that you’ll share this route with another team except on the busiest weekends, the route meets up with the popular Southwest Rib at the top of Pitch 6.

Some people think the first 5.10c/d pitch is more difficult than the second 5.11 pitch. Pitch 2 might have slightly hard...   [full history for SuperTopo members only!]

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Source: SuperTopo Guidebook Staff
South Early Winters Spire - Northwest Face III 5.11a - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click to Enlarge
The Northwest Face of South Early Winters Spire
Photo: Ian Nicholson
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