Chockstone Route, North Early Winters Spire II+ 5.7

   
Search
Go

Washington Pass, Washington, USA

  • Currently 3.0/5
Avg time to climb route: 1.5-4 hours
Approach time: 1.5-3 hours
Descent time: 1.5-3 hours
Number of pitches: 6
Height of route: 600'
Overview
This is the easiest route up the most difficult spire in the Liberty Bell group. Because it’s the descent route for the whole peak, it is sometimes dismissed. However, it is a fun and worthy rock climb later in the summer and a moderate “mixed climb” in early in the season. The crux has fun exposed moves around the left side of a house-sized chockstone. It is partially protected by old pitons that add to the historic feel of this route.
Photos - View all 6 photos of Chockstone Route as: Thumbnails | Slideshow
Climber Beta on Chockstone Route
  A total of (1) submissions of route beta on Chockstone Route
Find other routes like Chockstone Route

 
Route History
This was first route climbed on NEWS and was put up by Dick Widrig, Pete Schoening, and Wes Grande on July 4, 1950. This was pre-Highway 20 so the trio hiked 16 miles up Early Winters Creek. They cruised the route and placed only a handful of pitons, mostly on the crux pitch climbing around the chockstone that is the route’s namesake.

Strategy
This is maybe the least popular route up NEWS. But on a busy afternoon, everyone is coming down. The primary down side of this route is the chance that several parties rap through you. Luckily, the rap route only goes straight over the climbing route in a few places. There isn’t too much loose rock, but there’s still some, so let people descending know that you are there. Passing is easy on all but the last pitch.

Most of the challenging climbing is decently protected but there are some smaller runouts on low fifth class terrain. The crux pitch is protected with a few small cams and nuts and over a half dozen old pitons and an old bolt. It is possible to pull through the crux moves on gear. Above the chockstone walk up ...   [full history for SuperTopo members only!]

Sign In or Join SuperTopo (it's FREE!) to read the complete route history, the recommended strategy for climbing this route, and useful tips should you need to retreat.
Everything You Need to Know About Washington Pass
Search the internet for beta on Chockstone Route
  Search the internet for information on Chockstone Route
Source: SuperTopo Guidebook Staff Last update: September 7, 2012
North Early Winters Spire - Chockstone Route II+ 5.7 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click to Enlarge
North Early Winter Spire - Blue Bradley follows Pitch 6 of the Chockstone Route
Photo: Larry Goldie
Other Routes on North Early Winters Spire
North Early Winters Spire - Northwest Corner III 5.9+ - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Northwest Corner, III 5.9+
North Early Winters Spire
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

North Early Winter Spire
North Early Winters Spire - West Face III 5.11a or 5.10a C1 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
West Face, III 5.11a or 5.10a C1
North Early Winters Spire
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

North Early Winter Spire
North Early Winters Spire - Early Winter Couloir III AI2-3 and M4+ - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Early Winter Couloir, III AI2-3 and M4+
North Early Winters Spire
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Early Winters Couloir from the east
North Early Winters Spire - Flycatcher Buttress IV 5.10b - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Flycatcher Buttress, IV 5.10b
North Early Winters Spire
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

The East Buttress’s of South and North Early Winters
North Early Winters Spire - Labor Pains III 5.11a - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Labor Pains, III 5.11a
North Early Winters Spire
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

North Early Winter Spire
SuperTopo on the Web