Rampage, Paisano Pinnacle III 5.10d

   
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Washington Pass, Washington, USA

  • Currently 5.0/5
Avg time to climb route: 2-4 hours
Approach time: 2.5-5 hours
Descent time: 2.5-5 hours
Number of pitches: N/A
Height of route: 500'
Overview
Rampage is an awesome climb on steep and clean continuous corners with good protection and clean falls. Itís stacked with quality climbing that is consistently challenging. This makes it an excellent choice for climbers looking to push themselves at the upper 5.10 grade. Maybe the only thing going against Rampage is the hike in; itís a long trek for a four-pitch route no matter how good it is. Many climbers combine a route on Paisano with the North Face of Burgundy, making it a grade IV day and bagging two peaks for one approach.

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Route History
Bryan Burdo and Greg White made the first ascent in the summer of 1984. This was Burdoís first big first ascent. Burdo became well known as the stateís second most prolific first ascent climber with hundreds and hundreds of first ascents of both sport and alpine climbs. But in the early 1980s, it seemed Fred Beckey had already cherry picked all the good lines in the Cascades. As a result, almost no big new lines were climbed in the late 1970s and early 80s.

By 1981 and í82, recently invented cams arrived in the northwest, which allowed Cascade climbers to push themselves on harder climbs. With these new devices, Burdo soon realized that if he was gripped, he could just throw in a ridged stem friend and go for it. He felt this attitude made him climb better on alpine climbs.

In 1984, Burdo started climbing with Greg White, another strong Washington climber who shared Burdoís motivation and energy. The two challenged and supported each other. Ethics regarding first ascents were very strict at the time, and Burdo and White were inspired by many of the proud, onsite, boltless, ground-up, first ascents that were happening in Yosemite by climbers like John Bachar, John Long and Ron Kauk. The pair was a little nervous, but their route unfolded fantastically. Burdo and White found a very continuous line that offered fun and challenging climbing on good rock with abundant solid protection. The route went off with out a hitch. When the pair topped out, they almost couldnít believe their luck in finding such an incredible and classic line.

From this experience, Burdo started to realize that there could be other quality routes that had been overlooked by the great one. The same year, on a return to Rampage to add an extension to his line on Burgundy Spire, Burdo saw the steep splitter Pitch 1 of what would become Clean Break.

Strategy
While this is a spectacular route, due to the grade and the hike, it is unlikely that you will run into other parties, even on a busy weekend. If you were to run into another party, passing would be difficult. The cruxes are all well-protected and the falls are all clean, making Rampage a great option for the aspiring 5.10 climbers to push themselves to the next level.

The route follows the big, obvious corner that is easily seen from the approach. However, you first need to negotiate either a 2nd and 3rd class ledge traverse coming from the left to right (this is the better option), or 60 feet of 3rd and 4th class to get to the actual start of the route. Either way, there is a little mandatory brush battling.

Pitch 1 is an easy, clean broken corner with a double chimney a short distance before the belay. Pitch 2 is one of the money pitches. Itís mostly 5.10 fingers in an open corner with the crux passing the triangular roof on the left. While the climbing is sustained, there are many stemming rests ...   [full history for SuperTopo members only!]

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Source: SuperTopo Guidebook Staff
Paisano Pinnacle - Rampage III 5.10d - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click to Enlarge
The North Face of Paisano Pinnacle.
Photo: Ian Nicholson
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