West Face, Big Kangaroo II 5.6 R

   
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Washington Pass, Washington, USA

  • Currently 4.0/5
Avg time to climb route: 1-2 hours
Approach time: 2-4 hours
Descent time: 2-4 hours
Number of pitches: 7
Height of route: 250'
Overview
Big Kangaroo is the highest point on Kangaroo Ridge, and the West Face is the easiest route up Big Kangaroo. Even for climbers topping out on the massive South Face, the West Face is the best way to climb the final few hundred feet to the summit. Climbers sometimes refer to the West Face as the “1942 route” or the “normal route” and is a fun and adventurous outing with great views of the East faces of the Liberty Bell group.

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Route History
The route was first climbed by Fred Beckey, his brother Helmy and Walt Varney on June 21st of 1942. This was long before the highway was built, so the Beckey brothers and Varney made the 16-mile hike in along Early Winters Creek. The three climbers ascended the slope on the West Face of Kangaroo Ridge on scree, snow, and talus until they reached the final, complex looking pyramid. Some searching around for the best route on mostly 4th and low 5th class terrain brought them to within 15 feet of the summit. A difficult and unprotected final slab separated them from their objective. From a miniscule stance, Fred belayed Varney as he inched his way upwards. Varney reached the top of the tiny summit, threw one leg over each side and straddled it for greater security. To make sure their first ascent couldn’t be disputed, Varney carried rocks in his pack and built a cairn on the small summit.

It was during this ascent that Beckey started to wonder if the name Liberty Bell had been meant for the northern-most peak with its bell-shaped, east face rather than the highest peak in the group.

Strategy
The West Face is best climbed earlier in the season when most of the approach is on snow instead of scree. Snow remains in the gullys on the approach to Big Kangaroo until early or mid-July. That said, Big Kangaroo is climbed all summer. Climbers deal with a slightly looser approach, but can leave boots, crampons, and ice axes behind.
Big Kangaroo is often overlooked by climbers as it doesn’t seem as impressive from the highway as many other nearby peaks. This, combined with the long, steep approach, keeps the crowds a...   [full history for SuperTopo members only!]

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Source: SuperTopo Guidebook Staff
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