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Washington Pass Climbing
Authors: Ian Nicholson
Routes:  59 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 4th/5.2-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 248 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2012

 


Washington Pass Climbing is the most detailed climber’s guide to what is arguably the best alpine rock climbing area in the Northwest. Author Ian Nicholson included 59 of the best routes and climbed every single one to ensure accuracy of the information. Nearly 20 of the routes have never before been covered with a published topo. 

This book includes formerly obscure climbs and variations of all grades to provide more options for avoiding crowds. Included routes feature everything from short 4th class scrambles to 5.13 big walls. While the book features many hard test pieces in the region, there is a generous selection of moderate multi-pitch climbs in the 5.6-5.10 range. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
59 of the most classic climbs from the Beckey Route to Spontaneity Arête
20 never-before published topos
the best free and clean big walls, including Liberty Crack and Thin Red Line

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Washington Pass
First ascent history
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations


      View the Table of Contents (318 KB)

Review
d"Getting lost on the way to the base of any of the climbs listed in this guide would be not only embarrassing, but perhaps a sign that your routefinding might not meet the challenge of any route that notes that it will be necessary." - SummitPost Read Review

 

Try before you buy!
Weve put two of the climbs, Liberty Crack and Cutthroat Peak, South Buttress, on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, they may be the best climbing times you've ever seen!

Complete List of Included Climbs
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Route Name Formation Review
Liberty Bell - Liberty Crack 5.9 C2 or 5.13b - North Cascades, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Liberty Crack
5.9 C2 or 5.13b, Liberty Bell

Liberty Bell Liberty Crack
Photo:Mark Allen
Liberty Bell
14
5.9 C2 or 5.13b
5 Star Rating
Liberty Bell - Beckey Route II 5.7- - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Beckey Route
II 5.7-, Liberty Bell

Liberty Bell Beckey Route
Photo:Mark Allen
Liberty Bell
4
II 5.7-
5 Star Rating
Liberty Bell - Thin Red Line V 5.10a C2+ - North Cascades, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Thin Red Line
V 5.10a C2+, Liberty Bell

Liberty Bell Thin Red Line
Photo:Mark Allen
Liberty Bell
12
V 5.10a C2+
5 Star Rating
South Early Winters Spire - Southwest Rib III 5.8  - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Southwest Rib
III 5.8 , South Early Winters Spire

South Early Winter Spire
Photo:Ian Nicholson
South Early Winters Spire
10
III 5.8
5 Star Rating
South Early Winters Spire - South Arete II 5.6  - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
South Arete
II 5.6 , South Early Winters Spire

South Early Winter Spire
Photo:Ian Nicholson
South Early Winters Spire
10
II 5.6
5 Star Rating
Juno Tower - Clean Break IV 5.10b/c - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Clean Break
IV 5.10b/c, Juno Tower

Tino Villanueva leads up the amazing Pitch 1 of Clean Break
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Juno Tower
15
IV 5.10b/c
5 Star Rating
North Early Winters Spire - Northwest Corner III 5.9+ - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Northwest Corner
III 5.9+, North Early Winters Spire

North Early Winter Spire
Photo:Ian Nicholson
North Early Winters Spire
6
III 5.9+
5 Star Rating
Paisano Pinnacle - West Ridge III 5.9- - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
West Ridge
III 5.9-, Paisano Pinnacle

Paisano Pinnacle West Ridge
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Paisano Pinnacle
N/A
III 5.9-
5 Star Rating
South Early Winters Spire - Direct East Buttress IV 5.11a or 5.10a C0 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Direct East Buttress
IV 5.11a or 5.10a C0, South Early Winters Spire

The soaring East Butress of South Early Winters Spire
Photo:Andrew Burr
South Early Winters Spire
10
IV 5.11a or 5.10a C0
5 Star Rating
North Early Winters Spire - West Face III 5.11a or 5.10a C1 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
West Face
III 5.11a or 5.10a C1, North Early Winters Spire

North Early Winter Spire
Photo:Ian Nicholson
North Early Winters Spire
6
III 5.11a or 5.10a C1
5 Star Rating
Concord Tower - North Face II 5.7 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
North Face
II 5.7, Concord Tower

Concord Tower North Face
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Concord Tower
3
II 5.7
5 Star Rating
Lexington Tower - East Face IV 5.9+ - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
East Face
IV 5.9+, Lexington Tower

Lexington Tower East Face
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Lexington Tower
9
IV 5.9+
5 Star Rating
Chianti Spire - Rebel Yell III 5.10b - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Rebel Yell
III 5.10b, Chianti Spire

Chianti Spire Rebel Yell
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Chianti Spire
7
III 5.10b
5 Star Rating
South Early Winters Spire - The Hitchhiker IV 5.11b or 5.10d C1 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
The Hitchhiker
IV 5.11b or 5.10d C1, South Early Winters Spire

South Early Winter Spire
Photo:Ian Nicholson
South Early Winters Spire
9
IV 5.11b or 5.10d C1
5 Star Rating
South Early Winters Spire - Northwest Face III 5.11a - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Northwest Face
III 5.11a, South Early Winters Spire

The Northwest Face of South Early Winters Spire
Photo:Ian Nicholson
South Early Winters Spire
10
III 5.11a
5 Star Rating
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