Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
|
|
Exactly.
This bullsh-t about "preserving the experience" is pure ego talking, one climber wanting all subsequent climbers to go through the same thing they did. Nothing that a human can control, ultimately, though as Werner will tell you, people will die trying to hold onto it, only to come back as a mattress or something.
Sure, there's a line there somewhere about adding additional anchors, but for such hairsplitting about a specific, time dependent, artificial anchor, whether it should hold 4000 lbs, or only 1750 lbs because the great first ascentionists had to do it that way is pure crap, and shows how bored people must be with their own climbing.
Get out of town and climb some new stones somewhere, people!
|
|
BitchMcFist
Big Wall climber
Fallujah
|
|
Exactly. Erik I think you should go to the Trango Towers and bolt that route that Deuce and Toto did. I've been drooling to do the route but not until it's been made safe. I don't want to free the worm hole or hook through avalanches so make sure there's bolts there too.
I think it's great that these El Cap routes are finally getting easier. It's about time. A paraplegic climbed El Cap so I should be able to also. It's my right as a fat beer drinkin' American to climb the big stone so it better damn well be safe!
And the power drilling issue? Well at least the Rangers are cool enough to look the other way about Sloan's sacred activities. Do you expect him to do all that drilling by hand? puleese people, give him a break already!
|
|
Binks
Social climber
i am of the universe and you know what it's worth.
|
|
What a bunch of crap. Oooooh you're so much more bold if you hang off of crappy rivets than bolts. Hanging is hanging, might as well be a good piece of hardware.
|
|
deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
|
|
y'know mr. bitch, it's been 13 years since Xaver and I did that route, anyone would be a fool to go up there without a drill kit. We didn't place a lot of drilled anchors, but I'm sure the avalanches have shredded some of them by now.
anyway, you have to be a pretty bold climber to get through the initial 2500' of rock and ice climbing up the dangerous Ali Baba couloir just to get up to the base, so even if I cared if the second ascentionists were as equally and exactly as terrified as we were up there, they would deserve it!
By the way, there are a couple rivets on the overhanging wormholes: after several harding slot maneuevers at 20,000 feet, squirming and trying not to get spit out into the gaping abyss below, I came across a section about a hundred feet into the pitch that I just could not get through. In a 5.9 smearing stem/chimney position, I was barely able to drill a shallowest of shallow rivet on the outside of the wormhole, looking at the big whip at any moment. So I can tell you that first rivet is mank and may need replacing. But if you wear a medium instead of a large T-shirt, you might be able to squeze through and do the FFA of that pitch in its entirety!
|
|
Max
Social climber
squampton
|
|
Wow, this is all going nowhere really fast. Nothing has ever been resolved on supertopo, and my guess is that nothing ever will. It is simply a place to slander and be slandered in the comfort of your own glowing console. Find joy in that and leave the conflict resolution to when you're actually there, climbing.
You all do climb, right?
ps. deucy- yours is a voice of reason i do respect, unfortunately, after surviving joshua tree and season and a half in the ditch, the beloved green schwinn was cruelly stolen by no good low lifes in the bowels of Santa Cruz. May they die a grisly death...
|
|
deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
|
|
Max-
I'll plan to bring another cruiser to contribute to the general cause when I come this fall for my annual josh pilgrimage.
no dirtbag camping scene is complete without a cruiser!
|
|
BitchMcFist
Big Wall climber
Fallujah
|
|
Deuce, like I said, I'd like to go do your route, what's it called "Grand Voyage" or somethin'? But not until it has been rendered completely safe. I sure do wish Sloan would be up to the challenge.
Sloan is a good guy, his efforts are greatly appreciated by climbers such as myself, who can't figure out how to assemble a natural anchor or nail past tricky sections. I just like telling people that I've climbed the Reticent, it is an A5 route, you know.
Oh, and yeah, Deuce, you're an old man now who has quit climbing years ago. Your opinion does not matter, unless you agree that added bolts are good, then we're cool.
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
"Get out of town and climb some new stones somewhere, people!"
He he he ..... ha ha ha, give it to em John.
"Oh, and yeah, Deuce, you're an old man now ...."
You're dreaming Bitch!
|
|
Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
|
|
I can't believe it...all this chatter about Nanook, and still no mention of this:
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
Bosch is wimpy Lambone ..... Hilti rules.
|
|
Wrathchild
climber
right behind you
|
|
Yeah, it's a Hilti
|
|
mark_s
climber
|
|
i can understand to replace an old bolt with a new bolt. When the FA was done, the bolts were new and gud. Now there NOGud I think its ok to replace them, same goes for a rivit.
But to make the anchors 3 bolts, when the anchor takes gear, poor style.
As well I feel that to "preserve" (what ever that means) the climb and experience, you should contact the FA,if their not dead, or the climbing community. So that bolts/rivits aren't being added on route.
SOmething of note..the RURP belay on the Sea, there are only so many times that that belay was going to take RURPS. Eventually sawed-offs won't fit. Do you make it a bolt belay? Or just nail it higher/lower to make a natural gear belay?
|
|
yo
climber
NOT Fresno
|
|
There was always a big-ass bolt at that belay. The Bird's just smart enough not to put it in the photo.
"after several harding slot maneuevers at 20,000 feet..." Right on, JM! I think I just threw up a little in my mouth.
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
"Eventually sawed-offs won't fit. Do you make it a bolt belay? Or just nail it higher/lower to make a natural gear belay?"
You already know the answer to that ..... use your head, think.
I am blown away by this nonsense in this thread. It's like people stuck in quicksand ........ sinking very fast.
There's only one person that can save us ......and we are blind to the one.
|
|
Matt
Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
|
|
"and we are blind to the one"
keanu reeves is gonna save us?
|
|
dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
|
|
Deuce4 wrote, "Get out of town and climb some new stones somewhere, people!"
|
|
the Fet
Trad climber
Loomis, CA
|
|
I love how far some people can manage to cram their heads up their asses.
Bitch, an anonymous Internet coward posting here for two months, insults Deuce (a strong supporter of ethics) because he had reasonable views about replacing a rivet with a bolt.
|
|
Studly
Trad climber
WA
|
|
Wow, 10 years after.
|
|
MisterE
Gym climber
Being In Sierra Happy Of Place
|
|
Old flames
thought to be ash
are just embers
waiting for a
blow-hard.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!