welcome home(Erik Sloan's reply)

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Erik Sloan

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 1, 2005 - 05:52pm PT
Wow, what a rockin response. How great to hear that so many of you are ready to get down on the Yosemite route preservation tip. Thanks! The work can be arduous, but the rewards even richer.

There is much work to be done, fixed anchors still around after the folks that brought them to the rock have been laid to rest, or maybe progeny still maturing despite that the passion and might that created them has lost interest in creating--or the kind of responsible stewardship that shared magnificence requires.

Remembering Jason, Chris and I sitting around plotting our first feeble attempts to reciprocate the great love that wall climbing and Yosemite had shown us, I couldn’t think of a greater response than all of you motivated folks. See ya on the big stones!
best,
erik

ps. Ritchie and I went up on Saturday, my only day off, and bagged the peak(7340)(also known as El Capitan). She glowed like ever in those quiet waves of summer tan.
pss.
“When the great love invites you, go. Never falter. Never hold yourself back. As the sages have always said, if you hold yourself back, one day you will repent, because time doesn’t wait for you. You may wait for the time to come again, but time is merciless. It doesn’t stop. It moves on. So at a time when this great love asks you to come—go! Do not doubt whether the love will be filled with difficulties and hardships—just follow. When this great love speaks to you, listen, follow its command. Give yourself to the awakening of this love. And if its voice within you threatens to shatter all your concepts, let them go—don’t hold yourself back.” --swami Chidvalasanda
Loom

climber
Sierra Nevada
Aug 1, 2005 - 07:08pm PT
Hello Erik,

I'm glad you are well and had an enjoyable peak bagging.

From the sarcastic tone of your note I take it that you resent the attacks you are receiving when all you've done is worked very hard to give something back for all that you've received.

But your stewardship has not been a responsible stewardship. You do not ask others such as first ascensionists or other wall climbers, and apparently you don't even ask yourself how much is too much.

Your unquestioning expression of love is marring the experience for many that share in the magnificence. To blindly charge forward with love sounds good, but it can be as destructive as charging blindly with fear or hate; little does it matter to me if your motives are pure and you have no regret.

Climb.

Scott Lennox

malabarista

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Aug 1, 2005 - 07:48pm PT
Personally I don't care about replacing rivets with bolts -fine with me. Either way, I am not making my own natural placement. But I can see why a lot of people would care -it would change the character. Similarly replacing 1/4 inch bolts with 3/8 -that seems like a good idea.. Since I never plan on doing any replacement unless I have to -don't worry. Is that all that this boils down to or is there more?
deuce4

Big Wall climber
the Southwest
Aug 1, 2005 - 09:03pm PT
Malabarista, good question...

Methinks it is may be indeed an argument of whether or not to replace a artificial placement with another more bomber artificial placement.

Not totally sure if the notorius Sloan is adding additional bolts in general, though it seems clear that only an expert like Gerberding who's climbed a bazillion different routes, many times each, would even begin to know the complete drill history of each route, and how many drilled placements were original (Walt would have known, AND remembered). That probably pisses off the likes of Klaus, who, since he's pretty psycho when it comes to hard aid, has a lot of his routes chicken-bolted by later ascentionists, which then become indistinguishable after the route is rebolted.

But if it could be "boiled down", as you say, to whether or not an original drilled anchor is subsequently replaced with bomber drilled anchor, all the complainers have to do is wait 30 years--then the 3/8" bolt that replaces the original rivet will have the same strength as the original 5/16" machine head rivet it once replaced.
funkness

climber
So,Ca.
Aug 1, 2005 - 09:26pm PT
I think those Fixe SS 3/8 or 1/2 inchers will last alot longer than 30 years and still be totally bomber, maybe hundreds of years, in Yosemite granite.
WBraun

climber
Aug 1, 2005 - 09:27pm PT
Yep, I want bolts like the ones on an RV wheels for anchors, maybe on the ladders too. If you want to get scared free solo the aid wall......he he he.
Loom

climber
Sierra Nevada
Aug 1, 2005 - 09:34pm PT
Do you want the base of El Cap leveled for convenient camping too???
bulgingpuke

Trad climber
cayucos california
Aug 1, 2005 - 09:46pm PT
Oh come on! I love bolting up Klaus's routes! Not that it does much good every route he has is intentionally on shity CHOSS! the chicken bolts probaly still will crumble and fall out on a fall anyways.
Warning!
Unless you enjoy getting chased through the woods by a crazy effed up man on a motorcycle DO NOT BOLT A KLAUSY ROUTE!

Further WARNING!!!

Klaus is only LIGHT in WIEGHT not PERSONALITY haha

Try Bolting this Sloaner




Bolting is boring anyways? Tink! Turn....Tink! turn...

~TY~

Oh and Eric yer still an Azzhole
bulgingpuke

Trad climber
cayucos california
Aug 1, 2005 - 09:49pm PT
Klaus what did you rate the above by the way?
Loom

climber
Sierra Nevada
Aug 1, 2005 - 10:11pm PT
It's not just the bolting.

At the base of El Cap, between Lost in America and Zenyatta Mondatta there is a large (+/-300’sq.) leveled area. This was CREATED by Erik. He used a come-along and other equipment to move boulders, then he created a retaining wall at the perimeter, and finally he filled it with gravel, sand and small rocks.

Erik was cited for trundling rocks off El Cap Tree ledge. This was also intended to create a more human, bivy friendly environment.
WBraun

climber
Aug 1, 2005 - 10:13pm PT
AND? What else Scott?
Loom

climber
Sierra Nevada
Aug 1, 2005 - 10:24pm PT
That's much more than enough for me Werner.
fareastclimber

Big Wall climber
Hong Kong
Aug 1, 2005 - 10:42pm PT
Hmm... Loom, are you serious about the leveling thing? If so, that is insane... what's the purpose of it?
WBraun

climber
Aug 1, 2005 - 11:33pm PT
So what does Eric Sloan have to say? Hello Eric are you there?

"When this great love speaks to you, listen, follow its command."
So the first expansion of the lord is "Love", Srimati Radharani, and she said for you to do this bolting and leveling?
T2

climber
Cardiff by the sea
Aug 1, 2005 - 11:51pm PT
Yea Fareastclimber, Loom is serious. The base of Kaos will never be the same. PLENTY of bivy spots along the base there, what was the purpose. I don't understand Nanooks reply, can someone translate for me, What the fukk!
Cracko

Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
Aug 2, 2005 - 12:27am PT
Hey Eric,

I don't know you, but judging from the "venom" coming out of the mouths of some of these "real" bigwallers, my support is leaning in your direction. I'm just a commoner who has, for the most part, really appreciated the work done on El Cap to make for safer belays, etc. Don't worry Klaus, you won't find me on any of your routes so don't get your panties in a bunch!
bulgingpuke

Trad climber
cayucos california
Aug 2, 2005 - 02:33am PT
What you guys need to under stand is this..

Yosemite Valley..IS NOT A FUKKING AMUSEMENT PARK FOR CLIMBERS!

Us as climbers, should not depend on 4 bomber stainless 3/8 bolt hangers at belays, vacant lots at the base, Half Dome quality trails to the base, boulderless ledges and so forth. Even cattle trails like The Nose should be treated the same. Many belays on that route could be gear as well. These routes should NOT BE BUILT!! Nor should they be made to our convenience.

My friend Alik did Sunkist a couple of weeks ago and this is something he told me:
"All the belays were rivets, dowels,Leepers,and SMC's. If you do it make sure you tell your follower to try not to bounce at while they're juggin.
Awsome
~TY~
smitty

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Ca
Aug 2, 2005 - 09:03am PT
All things aside, you all take this sport WAY too seriously. It is after all, just a sport.
Wrathchild

climber
right behind you
Aug 2, 2005 - 09:55am PT
Sunkist is a great route.
At one belay,I hauled the pig off two equalized hooks, a fish and a captain.
darod

Trad climber
New York
Aug 2, 2005 - 10:24am PT
smitty, I think you belong in the gym....that's where the "sport" is.
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