"The 10d Crack" Hardman List


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Oakland, CA
Nov 3, 2011 - 02:29pm PT
Great thread. Wind Jammin' sounds incredible, but just out of reach. Anyone done Breezin' that can comment on it?

In the vein of D. Wilson's 1-10, these are the .10d's I've been on that come to mind, and my ratings of them (Hard, Medium, Soft):

Fell/hung, so can't rightly say:

Five and Dime (0 for 3!)
Little wing
Vanishing Point
South by Southwest p4

Led clean:

Catchy (Soft)
Yin-Yang p1 (Medium/Hard)
Lazy Bum (Medium)
Serenity Crack (Soft)
Slack Center (Soft)

I can think of a few 10's or 10-'s that felt harder to me than the soft .10d's above:

Henley Quits .10b
Midterm .10b
Two money pitches on Hawkman's .9


Trad climber
Placerville, California
Nov 3, 2011 - 05:47pm PT
under the big top is pretty stiff tindee.
what we can expect of jay smith and friends.

Trad climber
Mountain View
Nov 3, 2011 - 06:22pm PT
For 10d Laybacks make sure to consider Mark of Art which is slick but fun.

+1 for the The Good Book (aka right side of the folly) A really great route with a stunning crux pitch (10d).

+1 for Cramming kicking my arse. Harder than the Enduro corner!


Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 3, 2011 - 06:37pm PT
Vaguely remember doing the first ascent of Cramming with, Wunsch, Bev and others- don't remember it being a sandbag. I'll have to go back and check it out- I'll probably get my ass kicked.

edit- Henry Barber once told me he thought that Vanishing Point was harder than Fish Crack.

The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Nov 3, 2011 - 06:45pm PT
Mr natural can't be 10d, can it?? I have had this discussion with Fosburg a few times and I can't believe it's 10d. I onsight floated that thing on a cold windy day with Karine Croft. I thought it was 5.9 (really) and I was at best a 10b/c onsight climber in my prime.
scuffy b

dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
Nov 3, 2011 - 07:18pm PT
What a relief about Fish Crack, Jim.
I've always thought it was too hard to even try, but since I've done Vanishing Point with no problem,
I'll just check off Fish Crack and forget
about trying to climb it.

Hey--authorized by Hot Henry--no quibbling, now!!

Gym climber
the secret topout on the Chockstone Chimney
Nov 3, 2011 - 07:28pm PT
Wind Jammin' is pretty dang stout. It felt like solid .11 to me, at least getting over that roof. The rest is about right.
David Wilson

Feb 26, 2012 - 03:01pm PT
well, here's a pic of the good book.

the good book P2
the good book P2
Credit: David Wilson

and not to beat a dead horse, but i added a few more entries to my iphone 1-10 10d rating list:

Yin-Yang 5.10d **. 7
Lazy Bum 5.10d ** 2
Serenity Crack 5.10d *** 5 fingers don't fit ( my dad's FA )
Vanishing Point 5.10d ** 1
Manana 5.10d ** 3
The Thief 5.10d **. 6
Cramming 5.10d *** 10
Five and Dime 5.10d *** 7
Finger Lickin' 5.10d *** 7
Moratorium P1,2 4
Little wing 5
Catchy 2
Waverly ( as reference only ) 8
Good book P2 7 pumpy lieback
Independence Pinnacle - Center 3 thin hands / short crux
First pitch of the nose 7 slippery unpleasant
Rostrum P6. 6

still need to do:
Mark of art
Ten Years After 5.10d
south by southwest p4

Jim, very odd that Henry Barber thought vanishing point was so hard....you sure it was that route?

Feb 26, 2012 - 03:23pm PT
Awsome thread....what could be more fun than watching the Yosemite crusties trying to out-testorerone each other on a 10d grade discussion.

Josh Higgins

Trad climber
San Diego
Feb 26, 2012 - 03:28pm PT
That picture of Good Book brings back memories. I almost puked on that pitch. We did it as a nice easy route 2 days after NIAD. My body still wasn't ready. I dry heaved following that thin hands corner, roughly where the climber above is pictured. Luckily, I was feeling better up higher since I got the offwidth and didn't have big enough cams to protect it! Yikes! Bring a #5!


Feb 26, 2012 - 03:59pm PT
I think the classic line came from bmac on the 10d good book pitch when he channelled mick jagger and announced "i just don't have that much jam"

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Feb 26, 2012 - 06:49pm PT
what could be more fun than watching the Yosemite crusties trying to out-testorerone each other on a 10d grade discussion?

rackin' up and sendin' 'em, junior!
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Feb 26, 2012 - 08:51pm PT
I didn't read the whole thread.

What about the V-8 Crack, across from Cardinal Lodge Pinnacle?
The Warbler

the edge of America
Feb 26, 2012 - 08:53pm PT
rackin' up and sendin' 'em, junior!

With hexes and EBs
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jul 10, 2013 - 03:01am PT
ok, how's the list-ticking going - bump

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Jul 10, 2013 - 03:58am PT
How many of those were put up pre-cams?
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Jul 10, 2013 - 07:35am PT
Man, P2 of the good book looked MF hard.... real hard....

I did Lazy Bum so many times I was close to free-soloing it.
The Warbler

the edge of America
Jul 10, 2013 - 08:36am PT
How many of those were put up pre-cams?

All of David Wilson's listed routes were done pre cams, with the possible exception of south by southwest.

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jul 10, 2013 - 10:36am PT
David.....yep, Henry said Vanishing Point was hard, maybe a high gravity day. Did the second pitch of the Good Book this Spring and thought it was haarrd.....kind of wet at the crux and pumpy.

Gym climber
Jul 10, 2013 - 11:25am PT
I've had the pleasure of visiting most on the list here. Independence Center isn't 5.10, as I see it.

Cramming I thought was f'in hard! "Good for laps..." Ha!

I lowered off and cleaned the thing for my buddy, Barefoot Bruce.

It's a small ledge you belay from there. Bruce made a move or two up and I cringed as I watched his toes, at eye level, cramming into that crack. Ho man, it still makes me shudder to remember that scene.

Check out Scram next door, way fun!
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