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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jul 10, 2013 - 11:25am PT
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I've had the pleasure of visiting most on the list here. Independence Center isn't 5.10, as I see it.
Cramming I thought was f'in hard! "Good for laps..." Ha!
I lowered off and cleaned the thing for my buddy, Barefoot Bruce.
It's a small ledge you belay from there. Bruce made a move or two up and I cringed as I watched his toes, at eye level, cramming into that crack. Ho man, it still makes me shudder to remember that scene.
Check out Scram next door, way fun!
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jul 10, 2013 - 12:07pm PT
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You climb forever, a bunch of 5.11, some easy-for-the-grade 5.10s, a most excellent .10b traversing pitch way up high--you get to peer through your legs at the pedestal you started on hours earlier.
My buddy lead a give-away pitch up to a ledge in the sky, we were getting close to the top. I followed, starting to feel the mile of rock we'd crossed. I popped up to the ledge and looked up at the next pitch, my lead.
The topo says 5.10d, and man, that thing looked every inch of the grade. Climbing the thing confirmed the grade--my favorite one in the Valley. While it's not super easy to access, that .10d is memorable in every sense. Go do the West Face and you'll see what I'm talkin' about.
Add it to the list!!
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Jul 10, 2013 - 12:12pm PT
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Vanishing Point - I did an early ascent of that with Jay Smith and never went back to it owing to the long hike for such a shorty. But that one seemed stuff for 5.10 but that's a tough size for fat hands. Cramming I did several times and it felt like 5.12 and was basically unprotected with the old hexes. I still say Edge of Night is 5.11. I did that one with Kevin W. the first time and we were slotting 4 inch bongs in like nuts. I personally feel that Twilight Zone (10d) is harder than Cream (11a) but I could always crush straight-in off size. And for my fingers, Finger Lickin' is 11+.
God, those are really some great routes. So many classics. Wasn't Hum Dinger 10d as well. Can't remember....
JL
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Nov 12, 2013 - 04:32pm PT
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Tried Waverly Wafer recently, felt bleak - exiting that pod to get established in the lieback, man, just couldn't figure that out.
Waverly, Five & Dime, and Little Wing all shut me down. Of the three I think Five & Dime feels the hardest to me, having flamed out on it four times now... Such pure jamming and footwork req'd there.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Nov 12, 2013 - 04:38pm PT
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Crammin' is burly for the rating. Let's put it this way: the crux on New D felt easy after a lap on Crammin'.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Nov 12, 2013 - 05:15pm PT
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Independence Pinnacle is good but short. Not exceptionally stout for the grade.
These felt a bit harder than the rest to me:
Childhoods End done in one long pitch (originally rated 5.10d)
Fingerlickin
Cramming
Mark of Art
Little Wing
The Thief
Never did Twilight Zone but I'd bet it delivers more than full value for the grade.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Nov 12, 2013 - 09:37pm PT
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Childhood's End, what a great book. Personally, I think the pitch off the ground is extra stout. Whoa Nelly!
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
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Nov 12, 2013 - 10:11pm PT
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I'm with Warbler. Doing 5.10D in the style they were originally done - often onsight, with hexes, EBs, swami belt, and, in some cases, no chalk, is commendable climbing. Doing every kind of 5.10D, including the flares, the wide, and the laybacks solidly is uncommon, especially if you can do them in the FFA style.
For instance, has Chuck Pratt's Twilight Zone ever been repeated? To do it in the style of the first ascent you would either have to lead it with only a 1" swami, rope, hammer, and a couple of bongs or onsight solo it!
Cool thread. Just for fun check out this video of Henry Barber stylin' up Waverly Wafer barefoot!
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=YPATnqHMiaE&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DYPATnqHMiaE
PS Gotta go with the crux of English Breakfast Crack is silly hard for the grade.
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Spike Flavis
Trad climber
Truckee California
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Nov 12, 2013 - 11:15pm PT
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Hey Kenny, That looks like a hit list we might have worked up out of the old yellow meyer's guide at Maas's apartment drinking Lucky Lager and smokin' mexi-bud from the proto pipe back in '85!
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Dec 25, 2013 - 11:09am PT
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Bump
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!