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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 10, 2009 - 05:11pm PT
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So I don't know if this was just my partners at the time, rumor, hearsay, lies or half truths, or something I read in a Largo article. But there used to be a series of 10d cracks [in Yosemite Valley] that if you could or did lead all of them you could ONLY then consider yourself a "5.10 climber"
I'd appreciate any help in classifying this mythical series of 10d cracks.
The ones that stick out in my mind are...
2173. Yin-Yang 5.10d **
1338. Ten Years After 5.10d ***
1364. Lazy Bum 5.10d **
1514. Serenity Crack 5.10d ***
2146. Vanishing Point 5.10d **
2161. Manana 5.10d **
2431. The Thief 5.10d **
421. Cramming 5.10d ***
589. Five and Dime 5.10d ***
1140. The Good Book 5.10d ***
106. Finger Lickin' 5.10d *** 10d can't get any harder
possibly also this, but it was so far away, it usually wasn't in the discussion...
1744. Final Exam 5.10d ***
Catchy dropped to 'one move wonder' off the list.
204. Catchy 5.10d ***
added to OP, but not in list...
The Mark of Art 5.10d **
thx Clint for the organization of routes!
others from Clint's list of routes...
Thin Crack ( < 1")
223. Terminator - Right 5.10d *
343. Brainbucket 5.10d
369. White Cloud 5.10d
418. Humdinger 5.10d *
510. Olga's Trick 5.10d *
681. Little Wing 5.10d **
765. The Slack - Center 5.10d
967. Supertoe 5.10d
1338. Ten Years After 5.10d ***
1364. Lazy Bum 5.10d **
1514. Serenity Crack 5.10d ***
1516. Daughters' Direct 5.10+
1977. Dr. Feel Good 5.10d *
2146. Vanishing Point 5.10d **
2161. Manana 5.10d **
2297. Central Pillar of Frenzy 5.10d ***
2394. Tidbit 5.10d *
2431. The Thief 5.10d **
621. Mighty Crunchy 5.10d/5.11a *
Thin Hand (1"-1.25")
204. Catchy 5.10d ***
421. Cramming 5.10d ***
573. Independence Pinnacle - Center 5.10d *
589. Five and Dime 5.10d ***
Fist
1744. Final Exam 5.10d ***
2022. Wide Thing 5.10d *
full list here of climbs by type...
http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/YOSTYP.HTM
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Apr 10, 2009 - 05:21pm PT
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I led five of your original list onsight.
And gawd knows how many other 5.10's in the valley.
I don't get to call myself a 5.10 climber?
Geez....harsh.
All this time I thought I was.
I seem to recall Catchy being rated 10c BITD?
Damn....I suck.
Isn't Mr. Natural 10d?
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Apr 10, 2009 - 05:21pm PT
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Finger Licking 10d**- hardest 10d- ever (Reid book said something like " 10d can't get any harder" - agreed)
Edit:I would add to list Mark of the Art , Good Book and Waverly Wafer and make "soft for 10d- Catchy and Serenity
Also many more we already discussed in 2007:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=442592&tn=0&mr=0
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 10, 2009 - 05:21pm PT
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"The 10d offwidth", Castle Hill NZ...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2009 - 05:25pm PT
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Opl, sorry mang, this was only Valley 10d's. I edited my first post to clarify the cornfusion.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2009 - 05:26pm PT
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Alexey!
YES!!
That's the capstone one. Like people saved it for last, building to it.
edited first post, thx!
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Rankin
climber
Bishop, CA
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Apr 10, 2009 - 05:30pm PT
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Mr. Natural was called 10c when I did it, but who knows, maybe my buddy was sandbagging me. Wouldn't be the first time.
How about The Good Book and Twilight Zone. Aren't those 10d?
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Apr 10, 2009 - 05:31pm PT
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Yeah man, Good Book for sure!
At least for me.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Apr 10, 2009 - 05:32pm PT
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I don't see where Central Pillar fits in. I've done it to the top, which definitely amps the grade above 5.9, but as best I can recall the hardest bit up there was moving from a thin seam onto face moves at about .10+...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2009 - 05:32pm PT
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I thought Mr. Natural was 10c, Survival? Isn't it lower angle as well?
Not that I have done any of these in perfect style, or even seen all of them ... yet.
goals baby, gotta have goals!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2009 - 05:34pm PT
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yeah, Good Book may have been in there.
We didn't think of Twilight Zone in that list. 10d OW was like something profane or entirely holy that was unobtainable back then for us punters. Maybe it's a case of repressed memory.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Apr 10, 2009 - 05:35pm PT
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Lower angle? Uh...yeah.
But it still about bit my *ss off. Maybe I was having a bad day?
Seemed like 10d to me...
But then again, I'm WWWWEEEEEAAAAKKK!!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 10, 2009 - 05:36pm PT
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Kris,
On Central Pillar of Frenzy, the topo says on p9: 5.10d thin, so that is how it ended up on the list that way. Looks like it should be changed to face type.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Apr 10, 2009 - 05:38pm PT
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I thought EB crack was 10c....man, I'm all effed up!
All those days scratchin' away at them crags and sleepin' on walls for days on end and I'm NOT a hardman...
WWWWAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!!
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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Apr 10, 2009 - 05:41pm PT
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Leanie Meanie is .11a, I believe. Definitely not .10d
1338. Ten Years After 5.10d ***
Great climb. Thought this was .10c? I could very well be wrong though. (maybe I'm thinking of 10 Days After? Falls Amphitheater Definitely not thin hands. )
1514. Serenity Crack 5.10d ***
Pretty sure this shouldn't be on a "hardman" list. It's more a one move wonder.
573. Independence Pinnacle - Center 5.10d *
Damn, that thing looks good!!!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Apr 10, 2009 - 05:41pm PT
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Clint,
As I recall it was making the transition and the following commitment which was cruxy. Not pure crack climbing in any case.
The thing I remember most about that ascent was looking down and watching some dirtball going through our packs at the base while we were up there...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2009 - 05:41pm PT
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I don't think Central Pillar was part of the list. This wasn't all known 10ds, or even all 10ds that were good, but I really don't know what I'm talking about here anyways.
Let's hear some reasons from folks why certain routes should be in or out.
oops, sorry, the 'list' I'm talking about is the subset list not Clint's list culled from another post.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2009 - 05:43pm PT
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Survival, hey if the old dads on this forum say youz is a hard man, then you can claim hard man status.
:)
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Apr 10, 2009 - 05:49pm PT
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I say:
Out with Serenity. Great climb, very short crux.
In with the Good Book. (though not climbable now cause of rock fall??)
Ten Days/Years After, the amphitheatre one, I think is 10d, lots of finger locks???
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Apr 10, 2009 - 05:50pm PT
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The Warbler wrote:
"What about English Breakfast Crack and Leanie Meanie - aren't those 10d?"
It is interesting point because I always felt that English Breakfast Crack (10c) - is underrated and Leanie Meanie ( 11b) is overrated.
They can be both in 10d list with note "can't get any harder 10d" for Leanie Meanie
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