"The 10d Crack" Hardman List

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Nefarius

Big Wall climber
Fresno
Apr 15, 2009 - 12:05pm PT
"The Tube was one of those 10d's that seemed harder than the grade"

Maybe cause it is? My Reid/Meyers guide shows .11a, which I believe is the consensus.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2011 - 07:18pm PT
bump because I need to get back into crack and long free lines to improve the aerobic.

off to the gym in 20 min...


any good stories of pushing 5.10 routes that were hard for you?
Hankster

Social climber
Texas/Boulder
Feb 27, 2011 - 08:50pm PT
It says 10C but that is total BS. It's 10D for sure. And I agree with whatever Largo says. http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/boulder/eldorado_canyon_sp/105748813

caylor
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Feb 27, 2011 - 11:56pm PT
Largo sez that Edge of Night is rated 5.10c but is almost certainly 10d. Bat Crack at Tahquitz is another great 10d. The list goes on . . .

JL
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Feb 28, 2011 - 12:03am PT
Last pitch of Windfall, 10d straight in thin hands and fingers with a view to the Crest.

Oh my that's a good route!

That never gets done.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2011 - 12:26am PT
Warbler,

Reid guide calls it 11a (1994 and 1987).

Is that one of your routes?



The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Feb 28, 2011 - 12:39am PT
Yes, Munge, one of the very best I had the fortune to climb first.

There are four pitches, 10b liebacking and stemming, 11a six foot horizontal roof with thin crack, 11a+ double overhanging corner with wide to thin splitter crack (one of the steepest pitches in the Valley!), and the final 10d splitter straight in finger/hand crack pitch.

A spacious, flat summit ledge awaits the adventurous climber.

The climb is positioned on the very outside of the west buttress of Stanford Point Gully, AKA The widow's Tears Amphitheater, with a spectacular view of The Valley, the high country, and on a clear day, The Central Valley and Coast Range.

It is possible to avoid the first three pitches by climbing an easier route, Breezin', but why bother?
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Feb 28, 2011 - 12:59am PT
Damn dude, that Windfall sounds like the plum pickins right there. I actually got up, found a pen, and put it on the list.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Feb 28, 2011 - 01:08am PT
It's a bit of a hike, but worth every minute of it!

Some approach beta - walk to the base of the broken buttress below the route, and then up and west along the base of the wall until you can traverse back east along the base of the steep wall to the start of the route.

While you're up there be sure to crawl thru the exposed slot into The Widow's Tears Amphitheater - particularly amazing in the spring wildflower bloom.
klk

Trad climber
cali
Feb 28, 2011 - 01:10am PT
11a+?



Heh
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Feb 28, 2011 - 01:12am PT

With hexes.

Probably 10d with those little cammy gadgets y'all use these days.

That crack is so parallel sided and straight, I could see Chappy's hands jamming twenty feet below me looking down thru the bulge. The left wall is perfectly flat and overhangs about three degrees, the right is much steeper...
lucho

Trad climber
California
Feb 28, 2011 - 01:33am PT
Windfall is the hardest 11a I've ever done. The roof is so hard and the splitter overhanging handcrack is sick but also hard for 11a. True one of the hidden gems in the Valley that hardly gets done.
gonzo chemist

climber
Crane Jackson's Fountain St. Theater
Mar 1, 2011 - 02:47am PT
I was super psyched to climb English Breakfast Crack on sight. The whole time through the crux at the end I was thinking, "f*#king hell this is hard for 5.10c." And I felt like I didn't bring nearly enough gear, what with having spent the previous 6 months climbing exclusively in Joshua Tree on an anemic rack. Even now, thinking back, it felt harder than P1 of The Vampire on Tahquitz I think.

Most of the rest of the stuff in Yos valley I can't comment on, as I haven't been on it. Although, I'd maybe add Mark of Art to the list for .10d hardmen. That thing felt ungodly pumpy.




Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
Mar 1, 2011 - 10:20am PT
all 10d's should either be upgraded or downgraded. if downgraded, they should be downgraded to 10b's. 10b's can be impossible (in the way certain children can be impossible), and are generally not worth the effort, for the faint glory involved. 10c's are much easier to climb than 10b's.
Impaler

Gym climber
Vancouver
May 9, 2011 - 03:19pm PT
I'm surprised that Lord Caffeine isn't considered "the hardest 10d". Or is it just SO sandbagged that it just can't possibly be a 10d? Felt more like 11d to me.
mctwisted

Social climber
superslacker city
May 9, 2011 - 03:36pm PT
lucho, i remember that windfall being superproud, and a great workout hike to get there. excellant location,and never a line at the base! thanks werner for bringing me up there.
chill

climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
May 9, 2011 - 04:23pm PT
I like this thread. In the mid 80's my wife and I were doing the Valley hang and I saw that Waverley was 10.c in the Reid guide. "Hell, I can do that". I got out of the pod and thought the fun was over, then got spanked in the off-fingers. Made it to the top but it was a battle. I have more cams now, may have to go back.
Alexey

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
May 9, 2011 - 04:51pm PT
glad to hear that Windfall roof is hard for the grade. I added this one move- having no ideas how to do it free. Overhanging hands in the corner is one of the best pitches I climbed in the Valley, but probably fare rated as 11a?
David Wilson

climber
CA
Sep 10, 2011 - 12:37pm PT
i got psyched on doing the 10d cracks this spring and plan to do some others in a few weeks. so far these are my difficulty ratings out of 10 points max ( that goes to cramming - got totally schooled on that one ). threw waverly in as a bench mark

Cramming 10
Waverly 8
Five and Dime 7
Moratorium first 2 pitches- 4
Little Wing 4
Catchy 3
Vanishing Point 1
Lazy bum 1
Serenity 1
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Sep 10, 2011 - 02:08pm PT
Not to be forgotten:

The Good Book
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