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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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I like this thread. In the mid 80's my wife and I were doing the Valley hang and I saw that Waverley was 10.c in the Reid guide. "Hell, I can do that". I got out of the pod and thought the fun was over, then got spanked in the off-fingers. Made it to the top but it was a battle. I have more cams now, may have to go back.
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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glad to hear that Windfall roof is hard for the grade. I added this one move- having no ideas how to do it free. Overhanging hands in the corner is one of the best pitches I climbed in the Valley, but probably fare rated as 11a?
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Sep 10, 2011 - 12:37pm PT
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i got psyched on doing the 10d cracks this spring and plan to do some others in a few weeks. so far these are my difficulty ratings out of 10 points max ( that goes to cramming - got totally schooled on that one ). threw waverly in as a bench mark
Cramming 10
Waverly 8
Five and Dime 7
Moratorium first 2 pitches- 4
Little Wing 4
Catchy 3
Vanishing Point 1
Lazy bum 1
Serenity 1
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Sep 10, 2011 - 02:08pm PT
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Not to be forgotten:
The Good Book
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Sep 24, 2011 - 03:24pm PT
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Climbed a few more from the 10d list this week. For me, cramming is still in the lead as the hardest ( unless you put 10.96 on the list ). Did The Thief yesterday and that was amazing - well worth the hike.
Manana 3
The Thief 6
Cramming 10
Five and Dime 7
Finger Lickin' 7
Moratorium first two 4
Little wing 5
Catchy 2
Waverly 8
Yin-Yang 7
Lazy Bum 2
Serenity Crack 2
Vanishing Point 1
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Great thread. Wind Jammin' sounds incredible, but just out of reach. Anyone done Breezin' that can comment on it?
In the vein of D. Wilson's 1-10, these are the .10d's I've been on that come to mind, and my ratings of them (Hard, Medium, Soft):
Fell/hung, so can't rightly say:
Five and Dime (0 for 3!)
Little wing
Vanishing Point
South by Southwest p4
Led clean:
Catchy (Soft)
Yin-Yang p1 (Medium/Hard)
Lazy Bum (Medium)
Serenity Crack (Soft)
Slack Center (Soft)
I can think of a few 10's or 10-'s that felt harder to me than the soft .10d's above:
Henley Quits .10b
Midterm .10b
Two money pitches on Hawkman's .9
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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under the big top is pretty stiff tindee.
what we can expect of jay smith and friends.
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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For 10d Laybacks make sure to consider Mark of Art which is slick but fun.
+1 for the The Good Book (aka right side of the folly) A really great route with a stunning crux pitch (10d).
+1 for Cramming kicking my arse. Harder than the Enduro corner!
 Luke
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Vaguely remember doing the first ascent of Cramming with, Wunsch, Bev and others- don't remember it being a sandbag. I'll have to go back and check it out- I'll probably get my ass kicked.
edit- Henry Barber once told me he thought that Vanishing Point was harder than Fish Crack.
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scuffy b
climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
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What a relief about Fish Crack, Jim.
I've always thought it was too hard to even try, but since I've done Vanishing Point with no problem,
I'll just check off Fish Crack and forget
about trying to climb it.
Hey--authorized by Hot Henry--no quibbling, now!!
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
the secret topout on the Chockstone Chimney
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Wind Jammin' is pretty dang stout. It felt like solid .11 to me, at least getting over that roof. The rest is about right.
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Feb 26, 2012 - 03:01pm PT
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well, here's a pic of the good book.
and not to beat a dead horse, but i added a few more entries to my iphone 1-10 10d rating list:
Yin-Yang 5.10d **. 7
Lazy Bum 5.10d ** 2
Serenity Crack 5.10d *** 5 fingers don't fit ( my dad's FA )
Vanishing Point 5.10d ** 1
Manana 5.10d ** 3
The Thief 5.10d **. 6
Cramming 5.10d *** 10
Five and Dime 5.10d *** 7
Finger Lickin' 5.10d *** 7
Moratorium P1,2 4
Little wing 5
Catchy 2
Waverly ( as reference only ) 8
Good book P2 7 pumpy lieback
Independence Pinnacle - Center 3 thin hands / short crux
First pitch of the nose 7 slippery unpleasant
Rostrum P6. 6
still need to do:
Mark of art
Ten Years After 5.10d
south by southwest p4
windjammer
others?
Jim, very odd that Henry Barber thought vanishing point was so hard....you sure it was that route?
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Jorroh
climber
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Feb 26, 2012 - 03:23pm PT
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Awsome thread....what could be more fun than watching the Yosemite crusties trying to out-testorerone each other on a 10d grade discussion.
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Feb 26, 2012 - 03:28pm PT
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That picture of Good Book brings back memories. I almost puked on that pitch. We did it as a nice easy route 2 days after NIAD. My body still wasn't ready. I dry heaved following that thin hands corner, roughly where the climber above is pictured. Luckily, I was feeling better up higher since I got the offwidth and didn't have big enough cams to protect it! Yikes! Bring a #5!
Josh
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 26, 2012 - 06:49pm PT
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what could be more fun than watching the Yosemite crusties trying to out-testorerone each other on a 10d grade discussion?
rackin' up and sendin' 'em, junior!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Feb 26, 2012 - 08:51pm PT
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I didn't read the whole thread.
What about the V-8 Crack, across from Cardinal Lodge Pinnacle?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 10, 2013 - 03:01am PT
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ok, how's the list-ticking going - bump
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jul 10, 2013 - 03:58am PT
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How many of those were put up pre-cams?
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Jul 10, 2013 - 07:35am PT
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Man, P2 of the good book looked MF hard.... real hard....
I did Lazy Bum so many times I was close to free-soloing it.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 10, 2013 - 10:36am PT
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David.....yep, Henry said Vanishing Point was hard, maybe a high gravity day. Did the second pitch of the Good Book this Spring and thought it was haarrd.....kind of wet at the crux and pumpy.
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