Northwest Buttress - Tenaya


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Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
Jun 26, 2008 - 11:17pm PT

Bro Jacko and I plan on making another pilgrimage to T Meadows the extended weekend of July 11/12... Jacko has been lobbying me for years on the Tenaya Peak climb. I've been lurking and contributing on this site for too many years. You and Todd Gordon are the two people I truly want to meet in person (and Mike Ousley). What Say You ??? Please say yes so you can help me convince Jacko that simul climbing is both quick and safe !!!


Trad climber
Jun 27, 2008 - 12:47am PT
I climbed it nude last summer for 4th of July in Tuolumne. It was a bit of a dare, but it was pretty fun. Super solid, not a bad solo, one fun move at the top up this splitter hand jam crack.

I wore my chalk bag over the crack ;)

I passed some ladies on the way and they shouted "Yeah baby that's the way to work on that tan!" If either of you are reading this e-mail me and I'll pass on my number of course..


Social climber
wuz real!
Jun 27, 2008 - 03:50am PT
Cracko, hmm, the 11th of that month, is my birthday, been contemplating what cool thing to do around then, again hmm. I'll be in touch.

What if, we assume it's on? Whatever, "It" (tenya, laps on spd, a bbcue in the meadows, naked free solos of death crack or wherever our imaginations limit us to be doing) turns out to be? Could be worse...

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Jun 27, 2008 - 11:39am PT
Yo-if you guys are really going to do the route naked as promised, may I recommend the old Galen Rowell concoction for the super tan. Mix a batch of coco butter and iodine and lather up.Bit slippery, but you know the old saying"easy in, easy out". Of course for that perfect, deep, dark, high altitude tone, you may have to hang out longer than you wish. Be forewarned, the chicks at the base love to play hide and seek with the clothes.

Trad climber
Jun 27, 2008 - 11:42am PT
That huge overhanging buttress across from the route looks incredible. Any routes?

Trad climber
West Coast (usually)
Sep 2, 2008 - 01:01am PT
Don't worry about other parties, because if there are any you can pass them. On these easy routes, there is no absolute "route" because the cracks are so discontinuous and varied, you can go right around anyone. Enjoy - and simul climb it! Its a waste of time to belay so many damn times.

Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
Sep 2, 2008 - 12:16pm PT
I remember a fun day I had on this route... I had hitched up to the Meadows to do some bouldering and was sitting on a boulder staring at Tenaya. Before I knew it I was running across the beach and scrambling up. I had no clue where to go, or even if there was a real "route" on the wall. I do remember being a tad sketched near the top but soon was standing on the summit having done it 3rd class (whoops, sorry.. old terminology... "unroped solo.") Now what? Geez... Half Dome looks close and I know I can make the Valley not long after that. So, I took of running/speed walking. I had my favorite running shoes; a pair of yellow Onitsuka Tigers. (Mine were much less pretty than these...)

Somewhere near the top of Clouds Rest I remember being a bit concerned I wouldn't make it before dark. As it was I pulled into C4 pretty late and feeling a slight burn in my calf muscles. The next morning I could not walk as my legs were burnt inside and out (wore shorts...) I was in pain for about 48 hours but, after many routes, years and countries, I still consider that one of my finest days in the mountains.

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2008 - 12:31pm PT
I leave Boston Friday morning for my first trip out to the Meadows and Valley. I feel like I am about to explode with anticipation.
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