Northwest Buttress - Tenaya

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Messages 41 - 54 of total 54 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
clustiere

Trad climber
berkeley ca
Jun 25, 2008 - 06:10pm PT
come on give us a current pic!
khanom

Trad climber
eestsyde
Jun 25, 2008 - 07:31pm PT
This should give you an idea of the angle about 2/3rds of the way up. Some dude last August:





We've probably spent more time discussing this than it would take to climb it. Aaaah... the internet.
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jun 25, 2008 - 07:38pm PT
Guido's story is fascinating - you'd think there'd be something to connect the body with someone who was missing.

A Yosemite S&R person told me that it is fairly common for those dying of hypothermia to take off all their clothes - one of the body's last things it does in that situation is push everything it can into one last surge of energy/blood/heat. The victims are somewhat incoherent at that point, but suddenly feel very warm - so they take off all their clothes.

Perhaps the person was at or near the top, a hiker or maybe a climber. He got stuck in a storm and hypothermic, and in a last burst of energy threw off his clothes, and tried to climb off/out, but fell and got stuck in the crack.

Or perhaps just a suicide, although it seems rather remote for that.
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Jun 25, 2008 - 08:21pm PT
You know the strange thing was his technique was superb, hand jam and nice foot jam he just stopped dead. No pun intended. We searched all over for his clothes, on the wall and the base of the route. Zero. Yes, I agree really strange and has bugged me for years.I wonder if you are familiar with the story about the nuclear physicist that disappeared up Tenaya canyon years ago. Believe his name was Frisiell or something similar. Never found. Lot's of ideas associated with this one. Conspiracy folks would have a field day with this mystery.
Roman

Trad climber
Boston
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2008 - 08:54pm PT
We've probably spent more time discussing this than it would take to climb it. Aaaah... the internet.

I'm new-ish to multi-pitch and def. new to West Coast climbing so I really do appreciate it.

guido: Awesome to hear some of the peak's history. Thanks.
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Jun 26, 2008 - 04:51pm PT
Good Idea, Gene. That might be just the route to climb with my pretty daughter. Thanks for planting the seed!
Cracko

Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
Jun 26, 2008 - 11:17pm PT
Jaybro,


Bro Jacko and I plan on making another pilgrimage to T Meadows the extended weekend of July 11/12... Jacko has been lobbying me for years on the Tenaya Peak climb. I've been lurking and contributing on this site for too many years. You and Todd Gordon are the two people I truly want to meet in person (and Mike Ousley). What Say You ??? Please say yes so you can help me convince Jacko that simul climbing is both quick and safe !!!


Cracko
HalHammer

Trad climber
CA
Jun 27, 2008 - 12:47am PT
I climbed it nude last summer for 4th of July in Tuolumne. It was a bit of a dare, but it was pretty fun. Super solid, not a bad solo, one fun move at the top up this splitter hand jam crack.

I wore my chalk bag over the crack ;)

I passed some ladies on the way and they shouted "Yeah baby that's the way to work on that tan!" If either of you are reading this e-mail me and I'll pass on my number of course..

Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Jun 27, 2008 - 03:50am PT
Cracko, hmm, the 11th of that month, is my birthday, been contemplating what cool thing to do around then, again hmm. I'll be in touch.

What if, we assume it's on? Whatever, "It" (tenya, laps on spd, a bbcue in the meadows, naked free solos of death crack or wherever our imaginations limit us to be doing) turns out to be? Could be worse...
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Jun 27, 2008 - 11:39am PT
Yo-if you guys are really going to do the route naked as promised, may I recommend the old Galen Rowell concoction for the super tan. Mix a batch of coco butter and iodine and lather up.Bit slippery, but you know the old saying"easy in, easy out". Of course for that perfect, deep, dark, high altitude tone, you may have to hang out longer than you wish. Be forewarned, the chicks at the base love to play hide and seek with the clothes.
tradcragrat

Trad climber
Jun 27, 2008 - 11:42am PT
That huge overhanging buttress across from the route looks incredible. Any routes?
Nomad_Andrew

Trad climber
West Coast (usually)
Sep 2, 2008 - 01:01am PT
Don't worry about other parties, because if there are any you can pass them. On these easy routes, there is no absolute "route" because the cracks are so discontinuous and varied, you can go right around anyone. Enjoy - and simul climb it! Its a waste of time to belay so many damn times.
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
Sep 2, 2008 - 12:16pm PT
I remember a fun day I had on this route... I had hitched up to the Meadows to do some bouldering and was sitting on a boulder staring at Tenaya. Before I knew it I was running across the beach and scrambling up. I had no clue where to go, or even if there was a real "route" on the wall. I do remember being a tad sketched near the top but soon was standing on the summit having done it 3rd class (whoops, sorry.. old terminology... "unroped solo.") Now what? Geez... Half Dome looks close and I know I can make the Valley not long after that. So, I took of running/speed walking. I had my favorite running shoes; a pair of yellow Onitsuka Tigers. (Mine were much less pretty than these...)



Somewhere near the top of Clouds Rest I remember being a bit concerned I wouldn't make it before dark. As it was I pulled into C4 pretty late and feeling a slight burn in my calf muscles. The next morning I could not walk as my legs were burnt inside and out (wore shorts...) I was in pain for about 48 hours but, after many routes, years and countries, I still consider that one of my finest days in the mountains.
Roman

Trad climber
Boston
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2008 - 12:31pm PT
I leave Boston Friday morning for my first trip out to the Meadows and Valley. I feel like I am about to explode with anticipation.
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