Northwest Buttress - Tenaya

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 48 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Gene

climber
Jun 24, 2008 - 07:39pm PT
Good on ya, JLad. Take that pretty daughter of yours with you. It is a fun climb in a gorgeous position.
davidji

Social climber
CA
Jun 24, 2008 - 08:28pm PT
The route is really fun. Hiked/climbed it several times. If there's a lot of runoff, the technical crux may be getting on the climb itself.

I've done various descent options. The fastest involves descending through the notch in this photo.

I'm remembering the climb as about 45min, and most of the descents as quite a bit longer. Don't remember how long the one in the photo is, but I waited on the beach for maybe 1/2hr (felt that way anyway) for my partners to come a longer way.

Caveats:
1. There's some 5th class downclimbing.

2. Don't recall if there are choices, but the way I went is much better when things are really dry. There was a low angle gully I had to chimney above because it was wet & slimy. Much easier to just walk down it--if it were dry.


del cross

climber
Bay Area
Jun 24, 2008 - 08:39pm PT
It is fun, such a nice location. I think there are only a few pitches (discontinuous) that call for a belay. Even if you're really conservative there just isn't all that much to rope up for. So how is it that the supertopo shows 14 pitches? Is it an alternate route?

Last year, just as we were getting ready to break out the rope, a couple of guys appear from above, rappelling. We ask them what's up and they say they bailed from a pitch below the top. They ask if we know where the "5.4 ramp" (or something like that) is. I've never looked that closely at the topo but I assure them that there are easy ways off. They continue down.

Turns out that they had started the previous day. They'd bivied on route! Kind of funny, but at least they took care of themselves without help when they got in over their heads.
10b4me

climber
the gray bands
Jun 25, 2008 - 12:48am PT
Fletcher, and I climbed this route in 2002. a really fun route.
yeah, it's not hard, but so what. would gladly do it again.
Fletcher

Trad climber
The hear and now, currently Pasadena, CA
Jun 25, 2008 - 05:15am PT
Yup, it's all about a fun day in the mountains. That's what it's all about. Great views going up, lot's of variations if you want, discovering that cool looking bowl emerging as you get higher on the route, topping out with some more great views. Even the descent is fun (we took the long way down through the woods).

After spooking myself out on a route that's pretty much within my ability at Tahquitz this weekend, remembering Tenaya Peak is just the balm I needed.

Fletch
Roman

Trad climber
Boston
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2008 - 09:31am PT
Thank you all for the great pics and info. I truly love this sight. I think that we are going to spend a week in the meadows and do the north ridge of Mt Conness as well.

I will have two people with me. One is inexperienced and these will be his first multipitch climbs. The other is more experienced but does not lead. I am thinking of climbing on doubles when I have to rope up so that I can belay them simultaneously to save time. Can anyone see why something like that might be a problem? It is the best solution I can think of. Thanks again for your help!
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 25, 2008 - 10:37am PT
Brian in SLC, what are you carrying in that big orange bacpack, just curious...

My lunch of course.

Big? Might be the smallest pack I own...(BD speed pack).

"Someone" doesn't like clipping her shoes and water bottle to her harness...(or hiking in a harness)...

-Brian in SLC
Roman

Trad climber
Boston
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2008 - 11:55am PT
Incidentally, there is slightly harder climbing maybe 20-25ft to the right of the "standard" route.

With everyone saying its a 5.2 ramp Im wondering if this harder line to the right is what the supertopo is calling the 14 pitches of 5.5....
Roman

Trad climber
Boston
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2008 - 12:41pm PT
Awesome. I guess by 'everyone' I mean people elsewhere on the net not just this thread. I will def. keep the variations in mind though.
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Jun 25, 2008 - 01:05pm PT
The NW was a route we would routinely ran up on a nice summer day in the early 60's.
In 1965 or possibly 66, I was working seasonally as a climbing ranger under Steve Hickman. Two sheriff deputies , out for a weekend of R&R, spotted a naked climber wedged into a jam crack near the upper section of the normal route . What we discovered on arrival was a rather strange and puzzling scene. A long time dead,naked, muscular and incredibly tanned male, tightly wedge into a crack in a perfectly normal climbing position. After two summers of search and rescue and too many morbid encounters we had taken to calling ourselves the Alpine Body Snatchers to lighten the psychological baggage. We flipped a coin for who was going to bag this one and I lost. What ensued was one of my most unmemorable climbing experiences. It is one thing to extricate yourself from a difficult jamming position, but try to envision pulling a dead, naked body out of a similar situation. We slung the body off with a helicopter and spent the next two days at the base searching for clothes to no avail. Far as I know the individual was never identified.Riddle never solved. One can well imagine all the wild scenarios we came up with to explain the wild circumstances surrouding this episode.
Roman

Trad climber
Boston
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2008 - 01:12pm PT
My god that's completely unnerving. Way to add some spice to the scene! HAHAHAHHA I'll save the story for my friends until were on route. It'll be great.


Sorry you had to go through that though.
Fletcher

Trad climber
The hear and now, currently Pasadena, CA
Jun 25, 2008 - 03:25pm PT
Wow, guido, that is up there in weirdness. Sounds like a treatment for a climbing movie. Just fill in the blanks and add Angelina Jolie.

Fletch
10b4me

climber
the gray bands
Jun 25, 2008 - 04:31pm PT
there are three variations at the top, 4th class to the left, and then farther right a 5.8 exit, and a 5.6 exit. as I recall, we did the 5.6. is that right Fletch?
davidji

Social climber
CA
Jun 25, 2008 - 04:43pm PT
There are many variations at the top. It seems to me you can pretty much climb where you want there. Steeper than below of course.

Last time I went up with 2 other guys, and I think all 3 of us topped out a different way--all going up, none taking the early left exit.

I seem to recall someone telling me they went way right and topped out right at the summit. Couldn't tell you what kind of climbing you'll face if you try.
Fletcher

Trad climber
The hear and now, currently Pasadena, CA
Jun 25, 2008 - 04:53pm PT
there are three variations at the top, 4th class to the left, and then farther right a 5.8 exit, and a 5.6 exit. as I recall, we did the 5.6. is that right Fletch?

I dunno, I have a hard time remembering what I did ten minutes ago these days. It wasn't 4th and it wasn't 5.8. Split the difference and call it 5.6. Maybe one or two moves. Lots of a variations as the previous poster said.

Fletch
clustiere

Trad climber
berkeley ca
Jun 25, 2008 - 06:10pm PT
come on give us a current pic!
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jun 25, 2008 - 07:38pm PT
Guido's story is fascinating - you'd think there'd be something to connect the body with someone who was missing.

A Yosemite S&R person told me that it is fairly common for those dying of hypothermia to take off all their clothes - one of the body's last things it does in that situation is push everything it can into one last surge of energy/blood/heat. The victims are somewhat incoherent at that point, but suddenly feel very warm - so they take off all their clothes.

Perhaps the person was at or near the top, a hiker or maybe a climber. He got stuck in a storm and hypothermic, and in a last burst of energy threw off his clothes, and tried to climb off/out, but fell and got stuck in the crack.

Or perhaps just a suicide, although it seems rather remote for that.
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Jun 25, 2008 - 08:21pm PT
You know the strange thing was his technique was superb, hand jam and nice foot jam he just stopped dead. No pun intended. We searched all over for his clothes, on the wall and the base of the route. Zero. Yes, I agree really strange and has bugged me for years.I wonder if you are familiar with the story about the nuclear physicist that disappeared up Tenaya canyon years ago. Believe his name was Frisiell or something similar. Never found. Lot's of ideas associated with this one. Conspiracy folks would have a field day with this mystery.
Roman

Trad climber
Boston
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2008 - 08:54pm PT
We've probably spent more time discussing this than it would take to climb it. Aaaah... the internet.

I'm new-ish to multi-pitch and def. new to West Coast climbing so I really do appreciate it.

guido: Awesome to hear some of the peak's history. Thanks.
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Jun 26, 2008 - 04:51pm PT
Good Idea, Gene. That might be just the route to climb with my pretty daughter. Thanks for planting the seed!
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