Northwest Buttress - Tenaya

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 54 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Roman

Trad climber
DC
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 24, 2008 - 08:03am PT
I am looking to climb the Northwest Buttress of Tenaya but would like to know when my best chances for NOT running into a crowd would be. Is it crowded mid-week?
khanom

Trad climber
eestsyde
Jun 24, 2008 - 08:05am PT
No, because there is still snow all over the route.
Roman

Trad climber
DC
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 24, 2008 - 08:08am PT
Oh I should've mentioned.... I am looking to fly out late Aug / Sept.
khanom

Trad climber
eestsyde
Jun 24, 2008 - 08:40am PT
Heh :)

It's a very popular route. It could be busy or it could not be... more likely the former. But there are a huge variety of options, so passing is easy.
Roman

Trad climber
Boston
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 24, 2008 - 09:19am PT
By the way this will be my first route (and time visiting) Tuolumne or Yosemite in general for that matter. I have been training on the granite up in New Hampshire to get more used to the stone as it is way different from the quartzite that I am used to. I think it will be a great time.
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 24, 2008 - 09:37am PT
Great route. We did it last August on a Tuesday and there was a party way high on it by the time we got going (afternoon). We opted for a more "interesting" finish so didn't catch them, but, we did pick up a double set of nuts that they'd trundled down just about all the lower pitches (helped keep us on route).

Climbs really fast. Fun fun fun.

You might play around on some of the shorter easier routes on Lambert or Stately Pleasure prior to embarking on that long a multi pitch if you aren't dialed into the scene there.

Cheers,

-Brian in SLC
Matt

Trad climber
primordial soup
Jun 24, 2008 - 09:45am PT
"...there are a huge variety of options, so passing is easy."



the route is a 5.2 ramp
(i 1st did it after only a few years of climbing, in running shoes, and w/ a light pack on)

if you are roping up for it, YOU are the crowded part of it.
if you are having any trouble passing anyone, YOU are the crowded part of it.


seems unlikely to be an issue on a weekend or a weekday.
it's said to be "crowded" because nobody ever ran up it before it was supertopo-ed.



west crack is crowded.
the reg, on FV is crowded
CP is crowded.






tenaya peak is a dayhike, even if you hump a rope.
Floyd Hayes

Trad climber
Hidden Valley Lake, CA
Jun 24, 2008 - 10:53am PT
On Saturday I met a trio of climbers who headed up to the base thinking they could circumvent the snow patches but a considerable amount of water was pouring down the route and they decided against climbing it.
Mike.

climber
Jun 24, 2008 - 10:57am PT
Roman, Spend time on Whitehorse and you'll be as dialed as you can be for TM.
Roman

Trad climber
Boston
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 24, 2008 - 11:25am PT
My god paddling up Whitehorse is a blast. I did Wavelength (5.8) 2 weeks ago. So much fun. I moved to Boston from DC to get closer to the granite while staying on the east coast. I am so happy with the decision.
micronut

Trad climber
fresno, ca
Jun 24, 2008 - 11:48am PT
You guys will have a blast on Tenaya, even if it is crowded. Blue sky and sunshine on a thousand feet of cruiser stone in an unbelievable setting. Can't beat it. I usually hate crowds but man, on a route like that, take some time and say hi to people, learn their names and where they're from, enjoy the company, share some food. There is plenty of rock to share up there. There are always attitude spewing self proclaimed hardmen to deal with, but if they are so hard they shouldn't be on that route. Don't bother with those dudes. Here's a shot from last summer. Enjoy.

cleo

Social climber
Berkeley, CA
Jun 24, 2008 - 12:02pm PT
Tenaya is fun fun fun fun!

I am NOT hardcore... basically a 5.7 leader, and I don't solo. Yet, I soloed the first 7 pitches (most solo the first 5 w/o even realizing it, many solo the entire thing), then simul-climbed the rest, and only pitched out the last 30 ft crack at the top. We passed several parties on the way up, and there were multiple passing options, everybody was friendly and happy. Its basically a half day climb... goes fast (less than 3 hours base -> summit, unless you nap and lunch on the way).
khanom

Trad climber
eestsyde
Jun 24, 2008 - 12:16pm PT
Nice attitude there Matt. Really fits with the 5.fun nature of the route.

Perhaps you need a cookie?
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jun 24, 2008 - 12:28pm PT
easy to see it from the east coast apparently.
reddirt

climber
subarwu
Jun 24, 2008 - 01:59pm PT
I am looking to fly out late Aug / Sept

awesome time of year (after Labor day = even better)

very solo-able, although I started out in approach shoes & quickly switched to rock shoes. I stayed a little too far left on the way up & luckily someone was able to throw me a bight of rope for 5? ft of it. Turns out another guy I know did the same thing.

(getting your mind into slab mode first helps).

After topping out I was told not to turn rt too quickly for the descent... so I overshot the "exit" & it was no big deal...

"crowded" on the west coast is very different than the definition of crowded climbs back east.

have fun!!!!!
reddirt

climber
subarwu
Jun 24, 2008 - 02:02pm PT
btw Roman, (since You were in DC) the texture is just like the granite slabs at Old Rag
Gene

climber
Jun 24, 2008 - 02:10pm PT
The climb is a blast. If it's too crowded, see Micronut's comments above. Another option is to stop at one of the larger ledges and take a nap. Worked for me.

This one is about FUN and location & not about a tick on your resume.

GM
Matt

Trad climber
primordial soup
Jun 24, 2008 - 02:33pm PT
any climbs been done in that huge steep blocky amphatheater to the climbers left (east)?
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 24, 2008 - 02:39pm PT
A few pictures of the route:



Long shot from top of SPD.



Solo up, put on shoes.



Somewhere around p8 break out the rope.



Fun slab!



Corner variation.



Finish straight up...

Fun!

-Brian in SLC
Gene

climber
Jun 24, 2008 - 02:41pm PT
You mean over here, Matt?

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