Northwest Buttress - Tenaya

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Roman

Trad climber
DC
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 24, 2008 - 08:03am PT
I am looking to climb the Northwest Buttress of Tenaya but would like to know when my best chances for NOT running into a crowd would be. Is it crowded mid-week?
khanom

Trad climber
eestsyde
Jun 24, 2008 - 08:05am PT
No, because there is still snow all over the route.
Roman

Trad climber
DC
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 24, 2008 - 08:08am PT
Oh I should've mentioned.... I am looking to fly out late Aug / Sept.
khanom

Trad climber
eestsyde
Jun 24, 2008 - 08:40am PT
Heh :)

It's a very popular route. It could be busy or it could not be... more likely the former. But there are a huge variety of options, so passing is easy.
Roman

Trad climber
Boston
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 24, 2008 - 09:19am PT
By the way this will be my first route (and time visiting) Tuolumne or Yosemite in general for that matter. I have been training on the granite up in New Hampshire to get more used to the stone as it is way different from the quartzite that I am used to. I think it will be a great time.
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 24, 2008 - 09:37am PT
Great route. We did it last August on a Tuesday and there was a party way high on it by the time we got going (afternoon). We opted for a more "interesting" finish so didn't catch them, but, we did pick up a double set of nuts that they'd trundled down just about all the lower pitches (helped keep us on route).

Climbs really fast. Fun fun fun.

You might play around on some of the shorter easier routes on Lambert or Stately Pleasure prior to embarking on that long a multi pitch if you aren't dialed into the scene there.

Cheers,

-Brian in SLC
Matt

Trad climber
primordial soup
Jun 24, 2008 - 09:45am PT
"...there are a huge variety of options, so passing is easy."



the route is a 5.2 ramp
(i 1st did it after only a few years of climbing, in running shoes, and w/ a light pack on)

if you are roping up for it, YOU are the crowded part of it.
if you are having any trouble passing anyone, YOU are the crowded part of it.


seems unlikely to be an issue on a weekend or a weekday.
it's said to be "crowded" because nobody ever ran up it before it was supertopo-ed.



west crack is crowded.
the reg, on FV is crowded
CP is crowded.






tenaya peak is a dayhike, even if you hump a rope.
Floyd Hayes

Trad climber
Hidden Valley Lake, CA
Jun 24, 2008 - 10:53am PT
On Saturday I met a trio of climbers who headed up to the base thinking they could circumvent the snow patches but a considerable amount of water was pouring down the route and they decided against climbing it.
Mike.

climber
Jun 24, 2008 - 10:57am PT
Roman, Spend time on Whitehorse and you'll be as dialed as you can be for TM.
Roman

Trad climber
Boston
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 24, 2008 - 11:25am PT
My god paddling up Whitehorse is a blast. I did Wavelength (5.8) 2 weeks ago. So much fun. I moved to Boston from DC to get closer to the granite while staying on the east coast. I am so happy with the decision.
micronut

Trad climber
fresno, ca
Jun 24, 2008 - 11:48am PT
You guys will have a blast on Tenaya, even if it is crowded. Blue sky and sunshine on a thousand feet of cruiser stone in an unbelievable setting. Can't beat it. I usually hate crowds but man, on a route like that, take some time and say hi to people, learn their names and where they're from, enjoy the company, share some food. There is plenty of rock to share up there. There are always attitude spewing self proclaimed hardmen to deal with, but if they are so hard they shouldn't be on that route. Don't bother with those dudes. Here's a shot from last summer. Enjoy.

cleo

Social climber
Berkeley, CA
Jun 24, 2008 - 12:02pm PT
Tenaya is fun fun fun fun!

I am NOT hardcore... basically a 5.7 leader, and I don't solo. Yet, I soloed the first 7 pitches (most solo the first 5 w/o even realizing it, many solo the entire thing), then simul-climbed the rest, and only pitched out the last 30 ft crack at the top. We passed several parties on the way up, and there were multiple passing options, everybody was friendly and happy. Its basically a half day climb... goes fast (less than 3 hours base -> summit, unless you nap and lunch on the way).
khanom

Trad climber
eestsyde
Jun 24, 2008 - 12:16pm PT
Nice attitude there Matt. Really fits with the 5.fun nature of the route.

Perhaps you need a cookie?
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jun 24, 2008 - 12:28pm PT
easy to see it from the east coast apparently.
reddirt

climber
subarwu
Jun 24, 2008 - 01:59pm PT
I am looking to fly out late Aug / Sept

awesome time of year (after Labor day = even better)

very solo-able, although I started out in approach shoes & quickly switched to rock shoes. I stayed a little too far left on the way up & luckily someone was able to throw me a bight of rope for 5? ft of it. Turns out another guy I know did the same thing.

(getting your mind into slab mode first helps).

After topping out I was told not to turn rt too quickly for the descent... so I overshot the "exit" & it was no big deal...

"crowded" on the west coast is very different than the definition of crowded climbs back east.

have fun!!!!!
reddirt

climber
subarwu
Jun 24, 2008 - 02:02pm PT
btw Roman, (since You were in DC) the texture is just like the granite slabs at Old Rag
Gene

climber
Jun 24, 2008 - 02:10pm PT
The climb is a blast. If it's too crowded, see Micronut's comments above. Another option is to stop at one of the larger ledges and take a nap. Worked for me.

This one is about FUN and location & not about a tick on your resume.

GM
Matt

Trad climber
primordial soup
Jun 24, 2008 - 02:33pm PT
any climbs been done in that huge steep blocky amphatheater to the climbers left (east)?
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 24, 2008 - 02:39pm PT
A few pictures of the route:



Long shot from top of SPD.



Solo up, put on shoes.



Somewhere around p8 break out the rope.



Fun slab!



Corner variation.



Finish straight up...

Fun!

-Brian in SLC
Gene

climber
Jun 24, 2008 - 02:41pm PT
You mean over here, Matt?

Dapper Dan

climber
an 89' honda accord
Jun 24, 2008 - 03:08pm PT
Brian in SLC, what are you carrying in that big orange bacpack, just curious...
Matt

Trad climber
primordial soup
Jun 24, 2008 - 03:24pm PT
yeah-

pro'ly a bit loose in there tho', judging by the carpet.
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Jun 24, 2008 - 04:33pm PT
You guys have talked me into it, sounds like a kick in the arse! I have long loved the peak never thought about the route. Sometime, this summer, I am there!
Gene

climber
Jun 24, 2008 - 04:39pm PT
Good on ya, JLad. Take that pretty daughter of yours with you. It is a fun climb in a gorgeous position.
davidji

Social climber
CA
Jun 24, 2008 - 05:28pm PT
The route is really fun. Hiked/climbed it several times. If there's a lot of runoff, the technical crux may be getting on the climb itself.

I've done various descent options. The fastest involves descending through the notch in this photo.

I'm remembering the climb as about 45min, and most of the descents as quite a bit longer. Don't remember how long the one in the photo is, but I waited on the beach for maybe 1/2hr (felt that way anyway) for my partners to come a longer way.

Caveats:
1. There's some 5th class downclimbing.

2. Don't recall if there are choices, but the way I went is much better when things are really dry. There was a low angle gully I had to chimney above because it was wet & slimy. Much easier to just walk down it--if it were dry.


del cross

climber
Bay Area
Jun 24, 2008 - 05:39pm PT
It is fun, such a nice location. I think there are only a few pitches (discontinuous) that call for a belay. Even if you're really conservative there just isn't all that much to rope up for. So how is it that the supertopo shows 14 pitches? Is it an alternate route?

Last year, just as we were getting ready to break out the rope, a couple of guys appear from above, rappelling. We ask them what's up and they say they bailed from a pitch below the top. They ask if we know where the "5.4 ramp" (or something like that) is. I've never looked that closely at the topo but I assure them that there are easy ways off. They continue down.

Turns out that they had started the previous day. They'd bivied on route! Kind of funny, but at least they took care of themselves without help when they got in over their heads.
10b4me

climber
the gray bands
Jun 24, 2008 - 09:48pm PT
Fletcher, and I climbed this route in 2002. a really fun route.
yeah, it's not hard, but so what. would gladly do it again.
Fletcher

Trad climber
The hear and now, currently Pasadena, CA
Jun 25, 2008 - 02:15am PT
Yup, it's all about a fun day in the mountains. That's what it's all about. Great views going up, lot's of variations if you want, discovering that cool looking bowl emerging as you get higher on the route, topping out with some more great views. Even the descent is fun (we took the long way down through the woods).

After spooking myself out on a route that's pretty much within my ability at Tahquitz this weekend, remembering Tenaya Peak is just the balm I needed.

Fletch
Roman

Trad climber
Boston
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2008 - 06:31am PT
Thank you all for the great pics and info. I truly love this sight. I think that we are going to spend a week in the meadows and do the north ridge of Mt Conness as well.

I will have two people with me. One is inexperienced and these will be his first multipitch climbs. The other is more experienced but does not lead. I am thinking of climbing on doubles when I have to rope up so that I can belay them simultaneously to save time. Can anyone see why something like that might be a problem? It is the best solution I can think of. Thanks again for your help!
khanom

Trad climber
eestsyde
Jun 25, 2008 - 07:11am PT
I always use doubles (and a reverso) when climbing with a party of three. Would be perfect for that situation.


Incidentally, there is slightly harder climbing maybe 20-25ft to the right of the "standard" route.
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 25, 2008 - 07:37am PT
Brian in SLC, what are you carrying in that big orange bacpack, just curious...

My lunch of course.

Big? Might be the smallest pack I own...(BD speed pack).

"Someone" doesn't like clipping her shoes and water bottle to her harness...(or hiking in a harness)...

-Brian in SLC
Roman

Trad climber
Boston
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2008 - 08:55am PT
Incidentally, there is slightly harder climbing maybe 20-25ft to the right of the "standard" route.

With everyone saying its a 5.2 ramp Im wondering if this harder line to the right is what the supertopo is calling the 14 pitches of 5.5....
khanom

Trad climber
eestsyde
Jun 25, 2008 - 09:08am PT
With everyone saying its a 5.2 ramp

Not everyone is saying that. And some are just exercising their egos. The topo is accurate. It's just that the moves at the grade given are brief and overall the climbing low-angle and not 'sustained'. But you'll also notice that there are harder sections (5.7/8) in the immediate vicinity of the easier ground. So I wouldn't take it -too- lightly.

I found one or two sections of 5.8-5.9 (maybe) far to the right, with more sustained 5.6-5.7 here and there as well. Still easy.
Roman

Trad climber
Boston
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2008 - 09:41am PT
Awesome. I guess by 'everyone' I mean people elsewhere on the net not just this thread. I will def. keep the variations in mind though.
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Jun 25, 2008 - 10:05am PT
The NW was a route we would routinely ran up on a nice summer day in the early 60's.
In 1965 or possibly 66, I was working seasonally as a climbing ranger under Steve Hickman. Two sheriff deputies , out for a weekend of R&R, spotted a naked climber wedged into a jam crack near the upper section of the normal route . What we discovered on arrival was a rather strange and puzzling scene. A long time dead,naked, muscular and incredibly tanned male, tightly wedge into a crack in a perfectly normal climbing position. After two summers of search and rescue and too many morbid encounters we had taken to calling ourselves the Alpine Body Snatchers to lighten the psychological baggage. We flipped a coin for who was going to bag this one and I lost. What ensued was one of my most unmemorable climbing experiences. It is one thing to extricate yourself from a difficult jamming position, but try to envision pulling a dead, naked body out of a similar situation. We slung the body off with a helicopter and spent the next two days at the base searching for clothes to no avail. Far as I know the individual was never identified.Riddle never solved. One can well imagine all the wild scenarios we came up with to explain the wild circumstances surrouding this episode.
Roman

Trad climber
Boston
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2008 - 10:12am PT
My god that's completely unnerving. Way to add some spice to the scene! HAHAHAHHA I'll save the story for my friends until were on route. It'll be great.


Sorry you had to go through that though.
Fletcher

Trad climber
The hear and now, currently Pasadena, CA
Jun 25, 2008 - 12:25pm PT
Wow, guido, that is up there in weirdness. Sounds like a treatment for a climbing movie. Just fill in the blanks and add Angelina Jolie.

Fletch
10b4me

climber
the gray bands
Jun 25, 2008 - 01:31pm PT
there are three variations at the top, 4th class to the left, and then farther right a 5.8 exit, and a 5.6 exit. as I recall, we did the 5.6. is that right Fletch?
davidji

Social climber
CA
Jun 25, 2008 - 01:43pm PT
There are many variations at the top. It seems to me you can pretty much climb where you want there. Steeper than below of course.

Last time I went up with 2 other guys, and I think all 3 of us topped out a different way--all going up, none taking the early left exit.

I seem to recall someone telling me they went way right and topped out right at the summit. Couldn't tell you what kind of climbing you'll face if you try.
Fletcher

Trad climber
The hear and now, currently Pasadena, CA
Jun 25, 2008 - 01:53pm PT
there are three variations at the top, 4th class to the left, and then farther right a 5.8 exit, and a 5.6 exit. as I recall, we did the 5.6. is that right Fletch?

I dunno, I have a hard time remembering what I did ten minutes ago these days. It wasn't 4th and it wasn't 5.8. Split the difference and call it 5.6. Maybe one or two moves. Lots of a variations as the previous poster said.

Fletch
clustiere

Trad climber
berkeley ca
Jun 25, 2008 - 03:10pm PT
come on give us a current pic!
khanom

Trad climber
eestsyde
Jun 25, 2008 - 04:31pm PT
This should give you an idea of the angle about 2/3rds of the way up. Some dude last August:





We've probably spent more time discussing this than it would take to climb it. Aaaah... the internet.
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jun 25, 2008 - 04:38pm PT
Guido's story is fascinating - you'd think there'd be something to connect the body with someone who was missing.

A Yosemite S&R person told me that it is fairly common for those dying of hypothermia to take off all their clothes - one of the body's last things it does in that situation is push everything it can into one last surge of energy/blood/heat. The victims are somewhat incoherent at that point, but suddenly feel very warm - so they take off all their clothes.

Perhaps the person was at or near the top, a hiker or maybe a climber. He got stuck in a storm and hypothermic, and in a last burst of energy threw off his clothes, and tried to climb off/out, but fell and got stuck in the crack.

Or perhaps just a suicide, although it seems rather remote for that.
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Jun 25, 2008 - 05:21pm PT
You know the strange thing was his technique was superb, hand jam and nice foot jam he just stopped dead. No pun intended. We searched all over for his clothes, on the wall and the base of the route. Zero. Yes, I agree really strange and has bugged me for years.I wonder if you are familiar with the story about the nuclear physicist that disappeared up Tenaya canyon years ago. Believe his name was Frisiell or something similar. Never found. Lot's of ideas associated with this one. Conspiracy folks would have a field day with this mystery.
Roman

Trad climber
Boston
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2008 - 05:54pm PT
We've probably spent more time discussing this than it would take to climb it. Aaaah... the internet.

I'm new-ish to multi-pitch and def. new to West Coast climbing so I really do appreciate it.

guido: Awesome to hear some of the peak's history. Thanks.
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Jun 26, 2008 - 01:51pm PT
Good Idea, Gene. That might be just the route to climb with my pretty daughter. Thanks for planting the seed!
Cracko

Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
Jun 26, 2008 - 08:17pm PT
Jaybro,


Bro Jacko and I plan on making another pilgrimage to T Meadows the extended weekend of July 11/12... Jacko has been lobbying me for years on the Tenaya Peak climb. I've been lurking and contributing on this site for too many years. You and Todd Gordon are the two people I truly want to meet in person (and Mike Ousley). What Say You ??? Please say yes so you can help me convince Jacko that simul climbing is both quick and safe !!!


Cracko
HalHammer

Trad climber
CA
Jun 26, 2008 - 09:47pm PT
I climbed it nude last summer for 4th of July in Tuolumne. It was a bit of a dare, but it was pretty fun. Super solid, not a bad solo, one fun move at the top up this splitter hand jam crack.

I wore my chalk bag over the crack ;)

I passed some ladies on the way and they shouted "Yeah baby that's the way to work on that tan!" If either of you are reading this e-mail me and I'll pass on my number of course..

Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Jun 27, 2008 - 12:50am PT
Cracko, hmm, the 11th of that month, is my birthday, been contemplating what cool thing to do around then, again hmm. I'll be in touch.

What if, we assume it's on? Whatever, "It" (tenya, laps on spd, a bbcue in the meadows, naked free solos of death crack or wherever our imaginations limit us to be doing) turns out to be? Could be worse...
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Jun 27, 2008 - 08:39am PT
Yo-if you guys are really going to do the route naked as promised, may I recommend the old Galen Rowell concoction for the super tan. Mix a batch of coco butter and iodine and lather up.Bit slippery, but you know the old saying"easy in, easy out". Of course for that perfect, deep, dark, high altitude tone, you may have to hang out longer than you wish. Be forewarned, the chicks at the base love to play hide and seek with the clothes.
tradcragrat

Trad climber
Jun 27, 2008 - 08:42am PT
That huge overhanging buttress across from the route looks incredible. Any routes?
Nomad_Andrew

Trad climber
West Coast (usually)
Sep 1, 2008 - 10:01pm PT
Don't worry about other parties, because if there are any you can pass them. On these easy routes, there is no absolute "route" because the cracks are so discontinuous and varied, you can go right around anyone. Enjoy - and simul climb it! Its a waste of time to belay so many damn times.
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
Sep 2, 2008 - 09:16am PT
I remember a fun day I had on this route... I had hitched up to the Meadows to do some bouldering and was sitting on a boulder staring at Tenaya. Before I knew it I was running across the beach and scrambling up. I had no clue where to go, or even if there was a real "route" on the wall. I do remember being a tad sketched near the top but soon was standing on the summit having done it 3rd class (whoops, sorry.. old terminology... "unroped solo.") Now what? Geez... Half Dome looks close and I know I can make the Valley not long after that. So, I took of running/speed walking. I had my favorite running shoes; a pair of yellow Onitsuka Tigers. (Mine were much less pretty than these...)



Somewhere near the top of Clouds Rest I remember being a bit concerned I wouldn't make it before dark. As it was I pulled into C4 pretty late and feeling a slight burn in my calf muscles. The next morning I could not walk as my legs were burnt inside and out (wore shorts...) I was in pain for about 48 hours but, after many routes, years and countries, I still consider that one of my finest days in the mountains.
Roman

Trad climber
Boston
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2008 - 09:31am PT
I leave Boston Friday morning for my first trip out to the Meadows and Valley. I feel like I am about to explode with anticipation.
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