The Good Book

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 137 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
NoRushNoMore

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - May 7, 2007 - 04:37pm PT
So what's the story here?

We did this climb last weekend, nothing was falling down from above, first pitch is loose though but can be cleaned in a couple hours from a few loose blocks. Anybody else has gone on it recently?

Also, what's the deal with the bolts on P6, why did they get chopped?

Pitch 4 (Wild 5.8) is super fun, some incredible and exposed climbing
WBraun

climber
May 7, 2007 - 04:39pm PT
If there are some bolts missing at the anchors then the bolt police musta been there.

There are some self made bolt policemen always around.

Pricks, you know who ya are .......
NoRushNoMore

climber
Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2007 - 04:48pm PT
Chopped bolts are next to off-width, all anchor bolts are intact
WBraun

climber
May 7, 2007 - 04:55pm PT
Those were old and if they got taken out no big deal.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
May 7, 2007 - 05:00pm PT
No big deal pro-wise, but more retrofitting of history. Thank you, self righteous bolt police, you as#@&%es!

Probably very nice people in a different context.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 7, 2007 - 05:01pm PT
I'm gonnah go an' put em back in, plus add some, then start a thread about it: werd.
Things been just too tame on the taco of late.
WBraun

climber
May 7, 2007 - 05:09pm PT
I agree to tame ....

It's time to raise hell.

They said there is no hell, but we'll show em .....
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 7, 2007 - 05:18pm PT
Yah Werner, lets Rock.

Jaybro

Social climber
The West
May 7, 2007 - 05:26pm PT
Go, guys, put in some wierdness that will blow my fragile mind!
Brutus of Wyde

climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
May 7, 2007 - 06:26pm PT
My understanding is that when the bolted anchors were replaced with new stainless 3/8" bolts, the crew doing the replacing removed the quarter inchers on the OW and did not replace them, since with modern gear the OW can be protected quite adequately without the bolts.

Brutus
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
May 7, 2007 - 06:53pm PT
Those bolts on the last pitch were surely placed by Harding on the first ascent.

I guess if whoever chopped them did a nice clean job it could be justified, but...

I led that pitch on the FFA, and as I sit here I have an image in my mind of those old iron hangers leading up the left wall to the summit, and of the beautiful stripes of color dropping off the wall above and disappearing into the perfect offsize crack in the less than vertical corner. The streaks told a story about the angles in that wild place and gave it a surreal beauty, the bolts told a story about a man doing whatever he could to be the first to experience it.

I suspect the hangers are treasured by whoever removed them.

I was glad they were there for protection, even if the crack ain't that hard.

I liked the story they told me.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
May 7, 2007 - 07:19pm PT
What he said, glad they were there for first dozen or so times I climbed it, kind of a grounding thing.

On the other hand, maybe the chopper's ("theives of time™") kids can go to college through ebay sales.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
May 7, 2007 - 07:24pm PT
I almost used that "grounding" word, funny I had the same sensation...

WBraun

climber
May 7, 2007 - 07:38pm PT
You guys are a sentimental bunch?

but "The Good Book" is one of the most beautiful classic free routes here.

10 stars .....
Mimi

climber
May 7, 2007 - 09:23pm PT
Try eleven.

Lovely thread.
Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
May 7, 2007 - 09:25pm PT
I'd give it 15 stars if Werner would go and dig out the first pitch.... prolly 70ft of climbing under that rubble..... Did I ever tell you guys about the time me and
Walt did Wild Thing??????
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 7, 2007 - 09:26pm PT
If you guys aren't bitin' into bolt wars,
Then shoot, I'm just goin' to post up pictures instead:















Jaybro

Social climber
The West
May 7, 2007 - 09:52pm PT
yeah, that right folly is about as good as they get.

but what about that, other, whil thang tale, Mr walling?
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
May 7, 2007 - 09:53pm PT
There's them stripes I remember oh so well. Thanks Roy! Lil Sue sure looks a lot better on that pointy summit than Captain Birdlime did when I was up there.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
May 7, 2007 - 11:10pm PT
The Good Book is my favorite Yosemite free climb;...I did this with Wally Barker , and I loved it. I heard about the rock fall, and I was told that it was not climbable anymore;...glad to hear otherwise. Great shots too, Roy. It is one of my favorite climbs anywhere, actually;...it's awesome.
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