The Good Book


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Trad climber
CA, now Flagstaff
May 8, 2007 - 02:37am PT
Are the first pitch belay bolts still bent down or have those been replaced?

Trad climber
c-ville, virginia
May 8, 2007 - 08:23am PT
is there a new yosemite free climbs coming out? I went up there and the biggest thing I had was 1 #3 cause there were all the bolts on the topo. I just kept climbing and climbing trying to get to the first one. * for sure
Patrick Sawyer

Originally California now Ireland
May 8, 2007 - 09:19am PT
It was always on my tick list, perhaps one day.

That sure looks like a lot of rubble at the base of The Good Book. Did it come from the big scar above (dumb question?)
(Kevin, I remember when you guys freed the route, as I was watching you.)

Also, what about that big scar above Rixon's, how recent is that and how much rockfall?

The Warbler

the edge of America
May 8, 2007 - 10:02am PT
What I fear with rockfall at the Folly is that the whole damn thing might peel outta there. If you've ever done Wild Thing you know what I'm sayin.

Might make a good bouldering circuit and a Steamboat like swimmin hole right next to camp though, on the positive side.

The first thirty feet of the pitch off the ledge was grass filled, and Yabo and I went up to check out the free possibilities. He went back later to free solo it after we did it, and fell off the start of that pitch and stopped on the ledge, if I remember right. There were frogs moving up the 1 1/4 inch crack doing full body stems as I cleaned it. It's suprising the grass never grew back.

It's a good thing that pitch has such a positive edge, and that amazing grip tape texture for your feet.

Trad climber
May 8, 2007 - 05:19pm PT
Cool thread Folks,

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
May 8, 2007 - 05:26pm PT
Decades ago the start of the hard lybacking pitch was always wet and you had to claw up a flake on the left to keep your hands dry. I must have done that lyback pitch ten times and never once was the first bit dry. Can't figure how it didn't start sprouting weeds again - maybe too much chalk. It was a must do route in the 70s, a genuine classic.


Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2007 - 06:16pm PT
John, yes it was wet just as you described it, at the start of the pitch 3, little slimy but no grass or anything.

The other wet spot was at the start and thru pitch one but in a much worst condition: dirt and grass that I had to clear from the cracks to place gear. This pitch will have to be cleaned up again to restore climb back to a five star status and to keep climbing safe, too many loose blocks on it at this point.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
May 8, 2007 - 07:31pm PT
"What I fear with rockfall at the Folly is that the whole damn thing might peel outta there. If you've ever done Wild Thing you know what I'm sayin. "

I did Wild Thing on my 40th birthday and the only fear was ME peeling outa there!!.html

I used to love the Good Book but all the rockfall has discouraged me from going back. That said, I think once you finished the approach pitch to the 10d, you'd be out of the way of the rockfall.

I'm light so I was disappointed those OW bolts got pulled. The lieback was at my limit enough without a couple fatty cams to be dragged up there. Sadly, folks were alreadly bailing before the OW final pitch before the bolts got chopped and now we can expect more of the same if folks get the guts to go back there.

That 5.8 wild pitch is a misprint, it's 10a. I'm ashamed to say that I was leading that pitch once and found my harness was getting looser and looser. I mantled up in the chimney-sort-of-hole and found I hadn't doubled back my harness! Good thing I was having a good day cause on a bad one I would have had a hang on the 10d earlier.

I really, really love the West Face of Rixon's as well. I did it numerous times after the major slide with only a stone coming down once in a blue moon. Then I went up there and after we rapped there was a big noise and then a cloud of dirt sweeping down the talus slowly from the West. We walked back to the car and NPS had actually closed the road, the rocks had come close enough to make em nervous. That has been enough to keep me away the past few years.

I think the grass didn't grow back on the 10d cause it slants such that, even though it's wet a lot, it would be hard for stuff to recollect.


Bart Fay

Social climber
Redlands, CA
May 8, 2007 - 07:49pm PT
Seems like having the first pitch buried is a plus.
Boring grassy wanderings, as I recall.
Fun route. Good memories. Big tick fer us little fish.
Maybe the best route with the WORST summit.

I was knackered on that last pitch.
If I was on lead, I'd have been pissed that the bolts were missing.

Mountain climber
Dak side
May 8, 2007 - 07:59pm PT
seems like we need more photos of folly in this thread
Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
May 8, 2007 - 08:06pm PT
Great TR by Karl here... seems we all have a similar outing on the Wild Thing:
Rick A

Boulder, Colorado
May 8, 2007 - 09:56pm PT
This thread jogged my memory of climbing Wild Thing with Dale Bard and Richard Harrison in about 1974. Some very unique situations on that climb, if I remember correctly. Here is Dale on the lead.


May 8, 2007 - 10:06pm PT

Did the "Wild Thing" but can't remember with who.

Free soloed the "Good Book" one day dragging two 7mm ropes to get down.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 8, 2007 - 10:27pm PT
Didn't Yabo slip on the wet spot while soloing the second pitch and managed to latch the spike bucket about a body length lower on the way by!

May 8, 2007 - 10:37pm PT
That's what he said, Steve.

But was he free soloing without any ropes to get down and was he going to down climb the thing if he did it?
Roger Breedlove

Cleveland Heights, Ohio
May 8, 2007 - 10:42pm PT
Hey Werner and Kevin, a bunch of us did a swarm ascent of 'The Good Book' shortly after it was first free climbed. I can remember Ron leading the long open book and I led the wild pitch that traverses out and back on flake. But I cannot remember anyone else.

I have b&W pictures of Ron leading the first pitch and then someone else following. Were either of you guys climbing in that group that day? There must have been 5 or 6 of us.

Great route, by the way. Too bad it got the whacked.

May 8, 2007 - 10:49pm PT

I think the very first time I ever did it was with Dale. Then all the other ascents are a fog. I went up there with so many different people over the years I haven't a clue who they all were today.
Rick A

Boulder, Colorado
May 8, 2007 - 11:13pm PT
Found another picture. Here is Richard coming up the first pitch of Wild Thing bringing the tubes.

Werner watching from below.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
May 9, 2007 - 12:40am PT
Here's a Good Book story I just remembered and don't have the common sense not to post:

A good friend and I headed from Wawona to the Valley to climb the Good Book. A bit of guy talk and catching up on our lives revealed that we had both fooled around with the same woman on the same day in the recent past. (Heck, we were sorta young and this was California, but still, it was shocking)

So we get to the climb and I realize I forgot my right climbing shoe. Screw it, I went for it with just my left climbing shoe and an approach shoe on my right foot. Made for a challenge but I pulled it off with no falls. (a miracle since it's not an easy climb for me)

On the way home, I got a flat in my car, changed it, and then the spare went flat too. We hitched back to Wawona. Nothing came between our friendship, on or off the stone



Social climber
The West
May 9, 2007 - 01:58am PT
Karl, are you sure that wasn't book of revealation? What if it had been the bad book?
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