The Good Book


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Messages 121 - 140 of total 144 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>

Mar 13, 2012 - 01:08pm PT
Just step out left and you'll find it David.

I just went that way and it became obvious once out there and around the corner.

Go for it .....
David Wilson

Mar 13, 2012 - 01:12pm PT
you end up in some crazy cave on wild thing - right Werner? Dave Altman has always told me it's a must do
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Mar 14, 2012 - 03:04am PT
Wild Thing, I'm sure you've looked in the guidebook already...
step left off the ledge with the visible stacked blocks at the base of The Good Book corner, onto the face and over to a vertical crack.

That goes up to a big square-ish block, tunnel through to the left side of that block and up the cracks that form the upper left side of The Folly on the Left Side route upper pitches.

I'm skeptical that Left Side would go free for someone like me... it's aid from the top of that big flake laying at the base on the lower left to the point where Wild Thing intercepts it...
peter croft

Mar 14, 2012 - 09:45am PT
Kevin, you sure got in on some good ones. As well the route names you picked were so perfectly matched with the climbs that they quickly rose to world famous-ness. Living in Canada I never had to explain to other climbers where the Crucifix or the Good Book was.
Anyway, my "special" time on the Good book started late one day in the Camp 4 lot when my friends were trying to decide between dinner and the bar. I was thinking climbing but it was late in the day. Like you said, Kevin, the Good Book looks over the campground and it didn't take me long to make the choice.
So I grab my shoes and run down there, look up and...Perfect! no one on the route. Deep in the shade the temps are perfect and the splitter cracks glide by. Man, this is so cool! I get up to the off width (the so-called easy pitch) and even that is fun. I grab the summit spike, straddle it and look out across the Valley listening to the swifts.
I can't wait long though 'cause the sun's left the Valley floor a long time ago. I launch down into the off width (always been lousy at the OWs) and start cuddling. 40 feet down my left knee gets stuck - kinda funny at first. After 5 minutes it's not funny at all and after 15 minutes I'm contemplating bivi-ing off my knee - it simply will not budge.
Finally I figure out that I need to try move up a body length or two. After spazz-ing around for a few more minutes I was able to do this, pull the leg out and continue down, this time with my knee definitely outside the crack.
By this time the lower corners have gone into gloom but thank goodness there's no fancy foot work and nothing is nearly as hard as the easiest pitch on the route.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 14, 2012 - 10:54am PT
Great story Peter!

How to get the most out of a route...LOL
The Warbler

the edge of America
Mar 15, 2012 - 12:29pm PT
Timing is everything, eh Peter?

I was fortunate to have my experience up there - sounds like you had the ultimate one - the thought of downclimbing that lieback, solo, gives me the creeps, BIG TIME.

Way impressive!

And Ed, both Wild Thing and the Right Side are easier than they look. Chances are The Left Side would be the same...

Those triple splitters look like Bishop's Terrace on steroids
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 1, 2012 - 01:20pm PT
Bump for the Folly of it all!

Apr 1, 2012 - 03:30pm PT
Damn Peter. That sounds so nutty to me. You even write casually about it!

Bob J.

Double D

Apr 1, 2012 - 04:37pm PT
Great tale Peter... mucho hevos grandes! I'm with Kevin... down-climbing that slimy lieback section makes me a little yellow...

Trad climber
Mountain View
Apr 24, 2012 - 03:18pm PT
A few friends went up and did this over the weekend. They reported that there was fresh shrubbery growing in the crux pitch and the first pitch resembled a waterfall. Guess it might be a little while before it dries out.



Trad climber
Fresno CA
Apr 24, 2012 - 04:49pm PT
Great tale Peter... mucho hevos grandes! I'm with Kevin... down-climbing that slimy lieback section makes me a little yellow...

At this point in my life, up-climbing that lieback would start me trembling!


Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Apr 24, 2012 - 05:16pm PT
I remember being up there with Ron Fawcett who had a 250 foot 9mm rope and we took turns climbing up and down the lyback pitch with a top rope. You could really get the burn on.

Tobin or someone also did a hard face thing around there I vaguely remember. like a direct start or something. Had some hard crimping on it as I recall. Man, that was like 2,000 years ago . . .

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 6, 2012 - 01:03pm PT
Gud Bump...

May 24, 2012 - 02:26pm PT
Did this route during a short trip last week... super bitchin! Definitely worried about rockfall so tried to move fairly quickly on the hike in & out. Route itself feels fairly sheltered except for the first pitch, which is still pretty blocky and loose. Rest of the climbing is spectacular!

los angeles, ca
Oct 22, 2013 - 01:26am PT
Good Book Bump !

Big Wall climber
Oct 22, 2013 - 02:56am PT
Fantastic thread. I Climbed The Good Book for the first time a few months ago. Too much fun! Can't wait to go back...
Roger Breedlove

Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Oct 22, 2013 - 07:37pm PT
An early ascent of the Good Book in B&W
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 31, 2015 - 03:27pm PT
Classic Corner Bump...

Trad climber
Northern California
May 31, 2015 - 03:31pm PT
How much rock fall is happening near this route?

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
May 31, 2015 - 04:03pm PT
Did it about three years ago. Didn't see any fresh rockfall, nor did I see fresh signs of ascents....pumpy!
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