The Good Book

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NoRushNoMore

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - May 7, 2007 - 07:37pm PT
So what's the story here?

We did this climb last weekend, nothing was falling down from above, first pitch is loose though but can be cleaned in a couple hours from a few loose blocks. Anybody else has gone on it recently?

Also, what's the deal with the bolts on P6, why did they get chopped?

Pitch 4 (Wild 5.8) is super fun, some incredible and exposed climbing
WBraun

climber
May 7, 2007 - 07:39pm PT
If there are some bolts missing at the anchors then the bolt police musta been there.

There are some self made bolt policemen always around.

Pricks, you know who ya are .......
NoRushNoMore

climber
Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2007 - 07:48pm PT
Chopped bolts are next to off-width, all anchor bolts are intact
WBraun

climber
May 7, 2007 - 07:55pm PT
Those were old and if they got taken out no big deal.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
May 7, 2007 - 08:00pm PT
No big deal pro-wise, but more retrofitting of history. Thank you, self righteous bolt police, you as#@&%es!

Probably very nice people in a different context.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 7, 2007 - 08:01pm PT
I'm gonnah go an' put em back in, plus add some, then start a thread about it: werd.
Things been just too tame on the taco of late.
WBraun

climber
May 7, 2007 - 08:09pm PT
I agree to tame ....

It's time to raise hell.

They said there is no hell, but we'll show em .....
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 7, 2007 - 08:18pm PT
Yah Werner, lets Rock.

Jaybro

Social climber
The West
May 7, 2007 - 08:26pm PT
Go, guys, put in some wierdness that will blow my fragile mind!
Brutus of Wyde

climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
May 7, 2007 - 09:26pm PT
My understanding is that when the bolted anchors were replaced with new stainless 3/8" bolts, the crew doing the replacing removed the quarter inchers on the OW and did not replace them, since with modern gear the OW can be protected quite adequately without the bolts.

Brutus
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
May 7, 2007 - 09:53pm PT
Those bolts on the last pitch were surely placed by Harding on the first ascent.

I guess if whoever chopped them did a nice clean job it could be justified, but...

I led that pitch on the FFA, and as I sit here I have an image in my mind of those old iron hangers leading up the left wall to the summit, and of the beautiful stripes of color dropping off the wall above and disappearing into the perfect offsize crack in the less than vertical corner. The streaks told a story about the angles in that wild place and gave it a surreal beauty, the bolts told a story about a man doing whatever he could to be the first to experience it.

I suspect the hangers are treasured by whoever removed them.

I was glad they were there for protection, even if the crack ain't that hard.

I liked the story they told me.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
May 7, 2007 - 10:19pm PT
What he said, glad they were there for first dozen or so times I climbed it, kind of a grounding thing.

On the other hand, maybe the chopper's ("theives of time™") kids can go to college through ebay sales.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
May 7, 2007 - 10:24pm PT
I almost used that "grounding" word, funny I had the same sensation...

WBraun

climber
May 7, 2007 - 10:38pm PT
You guys are a sentimental bunch?

but "The Good Book" is one of the most beautiful classic free routes here.

10 stars .....
Mimi

climber
May 8, 2007 - 12:23am PT
Try eleven.

Lovely thread.
Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
May 8, 2007 - 12:25am PT
I'd give it 15 stars if Werner would go and dig out the first pitch.... prolly 70ft of climbing under that rubble..... Did I ever tell you guys about the time me and
Walt did Wild Thing??????
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 8, 2007 - 12:26am PT
If you guys aren't bitin' into bolt wars,
Then shoot, I'm just goin' to post up pictures instead:















Jaybro

Social climber
The West
May 8, 2007 - 12:52am PT
yeah, that right folly is about as good as they get.

but what about that, other, whil thang tale, Mr walling?
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
May 8, 2007 - 12:53am PT
There's them stripes I remember oh so well. Thanks Roy! Lil Sue sure looks a lot better on that pointy summit than Captain Birdlime did when I was up there.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
May 8, 2007 - 02:10am PT
The Good Book is my favorite Yosemite free climb;...I did this with Wally Barker , and I loved it. I heard about the rock fall, and I was told that it was not climbable anymore;...glad to hear otherwise. Great shots too, Roy. It is one of my favorite climbs anywhere, actually;...it's awesome.
Clayman

Trad climber
CA, now Flagstaff
May 8, 2007 - 02:37am PT
Are the first pitch belay bolts still bent down or have those been replaced?
nate23

Trad climber
c-ville, virginia
May 8, 2007 - 08:23am PT
is there a new yosemite free climbs coming out? I went up there and the biggest thing I had was 1 #3 cause there were all the bolts on the topo. I just kept climbing and climbing trying to get to the first one. * for sure
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
May 8, 2007 - 09:19am PT
It was always on my tick list, perhaps one day.

That sure looks like a lot of rubble at the base of The Good Book. Did it come from the big scar above (dumb question?)
(Kevin, I remember when you guys freed the route, as I was watching you.)

http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/gallery.html?r=yofogood

Also, what about that big scar above Rixon's, how recent is that and how much rockfall?

The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
May 8, 2007 - 10:02am PT
What I fear with rockfall at the Folly is that the whole damn thing might peel outta there. If you've ever done Wild Thing you know what I'm sayin.

Might make a good bouldering circuit and a Steamboat like swimmin hole right next to camp though, on the positive side.

The first thirty feet of the pitch off the ledge was grass filled, and Yabo and I went up to check out the free possibilities. He went back later to free solo it after we did it, and fell off the start of that pitch and stopped on the ledge, if I remember right. There were frogs moving up the 1 1/4 inch crack doing full body stems as I cleaned it. It's suprising the grass never grew back.

It's a good thing that pitch has such a positive edge, and that amazing grip tape texture for your feet.
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
May 8, 2007 - 05:19pm PT
Cool thread Folks,
Thanks,
Zander
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
May 8, 2007 - 05:26pm PT
Decades ago the start of the hard lybacking pitch was always wet and you had to claw up a flake on the left to keep your hands dry. I must have done that lyback pitch ten times and never once was the first bit dry. Can't figure how it didn't start sprouting weeds again - maybe too much chalk. It was a must do route in the 70s, a genuine classic.

JL
NoRushNoMore

climber
Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2007 - 06:16pm PT
John, yes it was wet just as you described it, at the start of the pitch 3, little slimy but no grass or anything.

The other wet spot was at the start and thru pitch one but in a much worst condition: dirt and grass that I had to clear from the cracks to place gear. This pitch will have to be cleaned up again to restore climb back to a five star status and to keep climbing safe, too many loose blocks on it at this point.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
May 8, 2007 - 07:31pm PT
"What I fear with rockfall at the Folly is that the whole damn thing might peel outta there. If you've ever done Wild Thing you know what I'm sayin. "

I did Wild Thing on my 40th birthday and the only fear was ME peeling outa there!

http://www.yosemiteclimber.com/WildThing!.html

I used to love the Good Book but all the rockfall has discouraged me from going back. That said, I think once you finished the approach pitch to the 10d, you'd be out of the way of the rockfall.

I'm light so I was disappointed those OW bolts got pulled. The lieback was at my limit enough without a couple fatty cams to be dragged up there. Sadly, folks were alreadly bailing before the OW final pitch before the bolts got chopped and now we can expect more of the same if folks get the guts to go back there.

That 5.8 wild pitch is a misprint, it's 10a. I'm ashamed to say that I was leading that pitch once and found my harness was getting looser and looser. I mantled up in the chimney-sort-of-hole and found I hadn't doubled back my harness! Good thing I was having a good day cause on a bad one I would have had a hang on the 10d earlier.


I really, really love the West Face of Rixon's as well. I did it numerous times after the major slide with only a stone coming down once in a blue moon. Then I went up there and after we rapped there was a big noise and then a cloud of dirt sweeping down the talus slowly from the West. We walked back to the car and NPS had actually closed the road, the rocks had come close enough to make em nervous. That has been enough to keep me away the past few years.

I think the grass didn't grow back on the 10d cause it slants such that, even though it's wet a lot, it would be hard for stuff to recollect.

Peace

Karl
Bart Fay

Social climber
Redlands, CA
May 8, 2007 - 07:49pm PT
Seems like having the first pitch buried is a plus.
Boring grassy wanderings, as I recall.
Fun route. Good memories. Big tick fer us little fish.
Maybe the best route with the WORST summit.

I was knackered on that last pitch.
If I was on lead, I'd have been pissed that the bolts were missing.
BadInfluence

Mountain climber
Dak side
May 8, 2007 - 07:59pm PT
seems like we need more photos of folly in this thread
Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
May 8, 2007 - 08:06pm PT
Great TR by Karl here... seems we all have a similar outing on the Wild Thing:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=24241
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
May 8, 2007 - 09:56pm PT
This thread jogged my memory of climbing Wild Thing with Dale Bard and Richard Harrison in about 1974. Some very unique situations on that climb, if I remember correctly. Here is Dale on the lead.

WBraun

climber
May 8, 2007 - 10:06pm PT
Nice

Did the "Wild Thing" but can't remember with who.

Free soloed the "Good Book" one day dragging two 7mm ropes to get down.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 8, 2007 - 10:27pm PT
Didn't Yabo slip on the wet spot while soloing the second pitch and managed to latch the spike bucket about a body length lower on the way by!
WBraun

climber
May 8, 2007 - 10:37pm PT
That's what he said, Steve.

But was he free soloing without any ropes to get down and was he going to down climb the thing if he did it?
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
May 8, 2007 - 10:42pm PT
Hey Werner and Kevin, a bunch of us did a swarm ascent of 'The Good Book' shortly after it was first free climbed. I can remember Ron leading the long open book and I led the wild pitch that traverses out and back on flake. But I cannot remember anyone else.

I have b&W pictures of Ron leading the first pitch and then someone else following. Were either of you guys climbing in that group that day? There must have been 5 or 6 of us.

Great route, by the way. Too bad it got the whacked.
WBraun

climber
May 8, 2007 - 10:49pm PT
Roger

I think the very first time I ever did it was with Dale. Then all the other ascents are a fog. I went up there with so many different people over the years I haven't a clue who they all were today.
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
May 8, 2007 - 11:13pm PT
Found another picture. Here is Richard coming up the first pitch of Wild Thing bringing the tubes.



Werner watching from below.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
May 9, 2007 - 12:40am PT
Here's a Good Book story I just remembered and don't have the common sense not to post:

A good friend and I headed from Wawona to the Valley to climb the Good Book. A bit of guy talk and catching up on our lives revealed that we had both fooled around with the same woman on the same day in the recent past. (Heck, we were sorta young and this was California, but still, it was shocking)

So we get to the climb and I realize I forgot my right climbing shoe. Screw it, I went for it with just my left climbing shoe and an approach shoe on my right foot. Made for a challenge but I pulled it off with no falls. (a miracle since it's not an easy climb for me)

On the way home, I got a flat in my car, changed it, and then the spare went flat too. We hitched back to Wawona. Nothing came between our friendship, on or off the stone

Peace

Karl
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
May 9, 2007 - 01:58am PT
Karl, are you sure that wasn't book of revealation? What if it had been the bad book?
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
May 9, 2007 - 02:58am PT
good pics - burly looking route
NoRushNoMore

climber
Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2007 - 05:14am PT
Pitches 2 thru 6





bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
May 9, 2007 - 02:17pm PT
I remember leading the OW pitch back in May of 1978. I found a great hold inside the crack, but when I pulled up on it, it flexed and turned out to be a big flake. Next thing I know the flake, which turned out to be pretty darn big(3'x6'???), comes off and plummets down into the depths of the OW with a very sickening sound. What a great route!

Bruce
hobo_dan

Social climber
Minnesota
May 9, 2007 - 04:15pm PT
I remember having my hat handed to me by the OW at the top- that thing really kicked my butt. My arms were so blown that I had to pry them open because they were cramping up.
Still it was a cool route.

I had a list of routes to do that I had pulled from the great photos in "Yosemite Climber" totally inspirational

murf
Brutus of Wyde

climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
May 9, 2007 - 11:18pm PT
anybody remember "Preface?"

Any of it still above the rubble?

20-foot ankle-breaker mantle before the first bolt...

Glad I didn't fall... boy was I stupud.

brut
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
May 10, 2007 - 12:41am PT
Can't one of you Valley locals cobble together a new pitch to get to the corner? Or is it that hammered?

I remember looking at a leaning, right facing corner with a thin grass filled crack to the left of the old start that looked hard but doable with some cleaning.

Put in some bolts if you have to, Jeez!

Just get 'er done (Werner)!

Take a wench and some tools from the SAR cache with you, hardman style.
NoRushNoMore

climber
Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2007 - 05:36am PT
Brutus, mantle is gone so as a first bolt

Warbler, I think I have a pic of that corner you are thinking about. Boy was it dirty. I was pulling grass and dirt out to place gear ;)

Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
May 10, 2007 - 06:55am PT
I can agree with the idea of not replacing bad bolts next to the OW, and even chopping them away, if they're unsafe.

Good gear is available today, as it were.

Plus, drilling bigger holes for bigger bolts next to a perfect crack sends the wrong message. Everything done in the Valley can be seen as setting the Status Quo, and, as such, the Valley routes need to be held to the highest standard, always.

When OW cracks are treated like sport routes, with bolts for quik-clips, the whole gestalt of the sport sags, like an animal taking a bullet (plagarism, here).

There is something to say for leaving the pitch as it was when done first. But, if the mid-pitch bolts are dangerous, it makes sense to remove, and not replace them. Especially if the crack takes modern gear.


The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
May 10, 2007 - 09:46am PT
No Rush No More - the corner I'm suggesting is to the left of the old start, your photo looks to be to the right. It's a real clean dihedral, structure wise, it just has grass in the crack, like the Good Book originally did. It starts 60 or 80 ft above what used to be the ground I think, and could be followed to the big ledge.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 10, 2007 - 10:30am PT
Just like runout doilies that can be used to cover up excessive bolts on slab climbs to regain that pristine look and feel, the answer here is ambiance hangers. These reproductions of antique and unreliable bolts features powerful magnets that allows the leader to toss them a few moves ahead so that they affix themselves in the appropriate metal filled positions. The ambiance hangers sway in the breeze and you can clip them for nostalgia sake knowing, as you used to, that they won't hold anything. The mock uncertainty completes the spell along with the twisted nail heads to snag your rack! Everybody's Happy! LOL
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
May 10, 2007 - 12:25pm PT
I like to wait for Fall to do things in rock-fall zones. For
some reason I think things stabilize by then. So hats off to
going over there in the Spring!

With that, we did it last Fall. Surely one of the very best at the
grade. I found that the first pitch is not buried, as people seem
to think. I also think that the first pitch (actually, the first
two combined) are not so bad--some loose stuff, but "creative" 5.9
climbing--certainly gets your attention.

The hangers at the first belay (below the corner) are a bit smashed,
but surely OK. You could replace them, maybe after the next rock
fall :p. After that, you head over to the corner and as Karl sez
above, I think you're in the safe zone from there up. So really,
you run up the first pitch as fast as you can, then you can relax.

Some day I'll have to try that airy "5.8", here's the 5.11 variation:

Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
May 10, 2007 - 12:34pm PT
K-man, the airy 5.8 version is kick ass fun.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
May 10, 2007 - 12:40pm PT
"Ambiance hangers," surely a trend for the future!
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
May 10, 2007 - 01:09pm PT
Can't get much more "ambiance" than original Harding hangers.

Tough choice for the rebolt team: do you leave the originals,
replace them, or what. For sure, they weren't worse than those
two bolts in the 5.8 chimney below the Narrows.

PS. Nice solo Werner.
Bart Fay

Social climber
Redlands, CA
May 10, 2007 - 01:21pm PT
Found this over on Mtn Project:

By Greg Barnes
Dec 28, 2006
rating: 5.10d

Note on the chopped bolts on the last pitch: we actually only chopped 1 bolt in the offwidth section, the other 2 had fallen out previously. We chopped 2 bolts next to splitter smaller cracks as well: a bolt next to perfect 2" crack on the 10c hands pitch, and the first bolt on the last pitch, which was right next to a perfect 1.5" crack. These bolts next to bomber hand cracks served as a good reminder that cams didn't exist when the route was established, and we couldn't in good conscience replace bolts along a perfect crack that just happened to be 4-5" instead of 2".

This generated a fair bit of controversy at the time (ended by the rockfall), but Harding never would have placed those bolts with modern big cams, and anyone who doesn't want to bring a couple big cams for the last pitch can rap before it -- you rap the route either way.

This is a sweet climb, hopefully the rockfall zone will stabilize itself!
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
May 10, 2007 - 01:36pm PT
... I headed inside the chimney and thrutched for my life. I was getting soaked with slimy goo and every inch of progress entailed a stout effort ...

Karl, a most excellent read on Wild Thing. I can't wait to not try that thing.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
May 10, 2007 - 05:06pm PT
if i recall correctly, off white and galen k. were on top of the folly during the big '83 earthquake and they said the whole tower was moving back and forth and some friends they had plugged into a crack were either getting smashed from the contraction or falling in after the cams tipped all the way out as the crack widened.

scary like "whoa!"
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
May 10, 2007 - 05:29pm PT
Thanks radical.

I love it when my buddies see pics of themselves cruxing. Then they
realize that I don't use a Grigri ...
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
May 10, 2007 - 05:54pm PT
cool thread. I especially like the Wild Thing stories and pictures. Although I did the Good Book at least twice, I used to do Wild Thing every season in the mid to late '70s. I think it was the name as much as anything.
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
May 10, 2007 - 07:35pm PT
The Good Book is a good (stout!) climb, but man, what a crummy, anti-climatic "summit."
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 11, 2007 - 02:18am PT
As we turn the lights down low this evening, a little Batso lullaby for your enjoyment...a personal momento from when he played the Leaning Tower Lounge back in 1961. He threw it at me from on stage.

quasitrad

Trad climber
Corvallis, OR
May 11, 2007 - 03:17am PT
Yeah, a #5 camelot on that last offwidth pitch is (or should I say "would have been") a good idea. For a while, there was a long sling hanging from one of the lower belays with some writing on it. We couldn't quite make out the faded writing. But when we got to the last pitch we looked up and realized the bolts were gone. It was my good buddy Norm's lead and he sucked it up. Thanks for the pictures, everyone!
apr

Trad climber
Oakland, CA
May 14, 2007 - 02:43am PT
My partner and I did it in June '04 and August '05. No rock fall from above at any time.

There is a loose section on the first pitch. Place the belayer off to the left side. Leader trends *carefully* right of choss.

There were flattened bolts at the top of the second pitch. However, there is a better set in a more protected position.

Even in August, seepage was an issue on three: a little wet at start (careful with baby frogs.)and a bit more in the middle.

When we did the last pitch, bolts were missing and a survivor deserved to go. It was old, half out, and purely historical.

One each of big cams will do. The last half is the business. You can lock in well and leapfrog a #6 Camelot.

The top anchor was sketchy. We lassoed rock with web. You can stretch the first rap to the top of pitch three using two 70M.

MAGNIFICENT ROUTE!!!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Aug 22, 2009 - 12:04pm PT
The Good Bump!
mongrel

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
Aug 22, 2009 - 12:56pm PT
Good bump indeed, I must have been out of the country and missed this first time around. Interesting to read all the comments about those bolts. We did this megaclassic route in the late 80s and the bolts were still there on the last pitch. We had one #4 Friend which fit totally tipped out near the bottom, and that was it. But my recollection was the bolts weren't even 1/4 inchers, I recall thinking they looked like 3/16 and not even good enough to dare to step on certainly not to bother clipping, though I desperately would have liked some help and pro on the OW. At that time the only prudent plan was to run it from the #4 all the way to the belay, cheered on by adrenaline and whatever other biochemical aids you had on hand, it was a pretty exciting lead. I'm totally unsurprised to see Greg's post that two or more of them just plain fell out - not even as good as ambiance hangers (great idea).
okie

Trad climber
San Leandro, Ca
Aug 22, 2009 - 01:33pm PT
Has anyone done this route this year? I did the 10d lieback pitch in the 80's. I think it's about time to go back and finish the route... Looked at it last spring but the first pitch was soaking wet (too early). I remember there's one spot on the crux pitch that seeps water. I think this is always wet in that one little spot.
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Aug 22, 2009 - 06:40pm PT
I climbed it in June. It was fine. Getting through the dripping mud on the first pitch adds charater. Had a 4 C4 Camalot, a 5 would have been nice. No rock fall. One of the best free routes in the Valley for 10+.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Aug 22, 2009 - 06:56pm PT
I'll repeat what I posted earlier -


It seems to me a new start could be crafted with a little cleaning, and a few bolts. Tobin did a first pitch face variation to the right of the old start, if my memory still works - kinda runout of course.

The Book deserves a better introduction.
okie

Trad climber
San Leandro, Ca
Aug 22, 2009 - 08:49pm PT
Thanks for the info, guys. Yeah, my partners tried to talk me into the dry, albeit runout variation to the right- interesting that it was climbed by Tobin...
The entire first pitch was wet last time I was there. I'm already a character, but I guess there'd be no harm in adding some...
A left variation with some drilling? Hmm...
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Aug 22, 2009 - 10:25pm PT
A few years ago I scanned some pictures of an early ascent of the Good Book. Here is the link:[url="http://supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=383333&msg=383333#msg383333]An early ascent of the Rigth Side of the Folly[/url]

Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Aug 22, 2009 - 10:26pm PT
Don't know what happen there. I cannot edit or delete the last post.

A few years ago I scanned photos of a very early ascent of the Good Book. Here is the link:

An Early Acent of the Rigth Side of the Folly
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Aug 23, 2009 - 01:13am PT
My favorite free climb in the Valley; The Good Book.
Here is Wally Barker on The Good Book

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 8, 2009 - 07:13pm PT
John Sheard leading the crux from Yosemite Climber. Jill Lawrence took the shot.



Tami

Social climber
Vancouver, Canada
Nov 8, 2009 - 07:18pm PT
Did anybody write about that totally coolio belay reclining stance atop the big flake ? I remember digging that BIG TIME.


AND YEY for a thread that LEB WONT POLLUTE !!!!!!

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Nov 8, 2009 - 07:39pm PT
Bierstadt saw The Good Book, and painted it in the mid-19th century..




check out others (not associated with this thread) here:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/402519/Favorite_Albert_Bierstadt_painting
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 8, 2009 - 07:40pm PT
No LEB backing allowed! LOL That belay nook is killer!

I have a stellar set of slides from this route that I need to dig out.

Nice art posting, Ed!

Josh Higgins

Trad climber
San Diego
Nov 8, 2009 - 07:51pm PT
I got on The Good Book in the summer of '07. It was my first climb after NIAD. We had taken a full rest day, inbetween, but I still almost puked on the 10d liebacking and jamming since I still appparently needed some recovery time. When we got to the offwidth, I remember all we had was a #4 C4, whatever guidebook we had telling us that was enough. I just sucked it up and ran that pitch out a lot. It was my first true "5.9+ offwidth" valley experience. I liked that much better than having bolts to clip. This thread brings back memories of good times.

While I was on it, there was definitely rock fall above us, and at one point we heard a shift come from inside the cliff near the roof that (if memory serves correctly) is at the top of the crux lieback pitch. We almost bailed as a result, but realized that it didn't matter when we bailed then or later, we would still have to go through a potential "kill zone" at the bottom so we just finished the route and did the last rappel and bailed as quick as we could.

Josh
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Nov 8, 2009 - 08:13pm PT
One of the best climbs, anywhere....
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Nov 8, 2009 - 08:13pm PT
hey there all, say, thanks for the sharing of the good book... (as with many of these climbs---never heard of them, but thanks to you, i am learning)....

say, as to this quote of werners:
but "The Good Book" is one of the most beautiful classic free routes here.

10 stars .....

wow--sounds very impressive in deed...

say, russ, and others mention rock fall... (haha, or he'd give a 15, he said) ...

say---i DID see some really great pics by tarbuster on the first few post---but i do not know if this is the rout in question, or if it another one that is mentioned, in these post as well....

so i am wondering... please:

which pics did tarbuster post... the good book? (or the wild thing?)

and does anyone have a post of what the rock fall area of the good book, looks like?

*i did not see all the post yet, so that may be there, but i was far too curious, and needed to post now, as i need to get off line soon...
thanks guys...

will be back to see or learn more...
thanks for sharing bits on this marvelous sounding rock...
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Nov 8, 2009 - 08:26pm PT
My bro's did the climb back in the early eighties, and highly recommended it, but then rock fall and closures have plagued the area for ....... Shite happens when in the mountains, between The Folly and GPA the man is gonna keep us climbers safe....Thank gawd,,,
I'm glad folks are running up that area again and hope we can dance around MR. Natural and other GPA classics without fear of a ticket.
Greg Barnes

climber
Nov 8, 2009 - 10:56pm PT
Missed this in '07. Just to clarify, when we did the replacement in '99, we removed/chopped 3 pro bolts: a 1/4" with homemade hanger right next to a perfect hand crack on the 5.10c hands pitch (forget which type of 1/4" bolt, this was actually removed a few weeks later since we forgot on the rap off), a 1/4" Star-Dryvin at the start of the offwidth next to a bomber #1 camalot placement, and the second of the 3 original 1/4" Star-Dryvin bolts along the offwidth section of the last pitch. Those both had the small homemade lever-out Harding hangers. The other two bolts along the offwidth were already missing, and that last bolt was part way out, with a red bail sling on it!

To be even more specific, we:
 patched two extra 1/4" holes below the first anchor (top of old pitch 2, base of corner) - probably the original bolt holes since the anchor was already bigger bolts
 removed a 1/4" bolt on the left wall a short distance below the 2nd (crux) pitch anchor
 replaced one bolt at the 2nd pitch anchor, removed & patched one more, and left two 3/8" bolts, one of which was a 3/8" Star-Dryvin
 pounded a 1/4" stud (broken bolt) a bit more into the rock to make it more flush, part way up pitch 3 (possible old original bolt?)
 replaced one bolt at the pitch 3 anchor, and added one vertically for a Fixe Trad anchor (with double-ring setup that they made for us). This was because the other bolt was a 3/8" Star-Dryvin which we would not have been able to reuse the hole (we could now with the lag bolt tricks from Clint and Bruce)
 planned to remove the 1/4" pro bolt right next to the perfect hand crack on pitch 4, but we forgot while rapping, and I think Jack & Todd went up and removed that one later.
 replaced one bolt at pitch 4 anchor, removed & patched one bolt, left two 3/8" bolts, one of which was a 3/8" Star-Dryvin
 removed first bolt on right wall of offwidth, next to perfect #1 camalot placement
 noted broken bolt on left wall of offwidth, I think this had the bolt sheared off in the hole flush with the rock surface
 removed part way out bolt on left wall of offwidth, 1/4" Star-Dryvin
 noted missing bolt on left wall of offwidth, and patched hole
 removed & patched two bolts at top anchor, and replaced one bolt - there was already one good 3/8" bolt. We also removed two pitons at this anchor.

The offwidth goes from 4" to 6" back down to 5" or so...and by throwing a little weight on the follower on the lower pitches, you can be on toprope the whole way with a couple big cams.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Nov 9, 2009 - 12:39am PT
THe Good Book rules.

Too bad about the rockfall. If you make it up the first pitch alive, you're probably good until the hike down as the upper pitches seem protected by overhangs above.

Much safer than the north face of the Eiger or Matterhorn

More dangerous than most of the rest of Yosemite

Peace

Karl
Gobee

Trad climber
Los Angeles
Nov 9, 2009 - 12:53am PT
Is An Open Book!
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Nov 9, 2009 - 04:32am PT
hey there say, gobee... some very nice scriptures are on these pages you just shared.... say, i just shared some of THIS good book with a gal in deep need, tonight... and it really did do her much good...

wow, i was so very happy for her...

seemed she had been in a bit of a "rockfall" of her own, for a bit, just of late, and now she is getting to rise above it... :)
god is so good...
Fuzzywuzzy

climber
suspendedhappynation
Nov 9, 2009 - 12:01pm PT
Hartoni -

Good one finding the Folly of history!!

I have some photos somewhere of Vern on the 2nd ascent. Wetness required a couple of "pulls" through the streak as I remember.

Great posts from everyone!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 9, 2009 - 07:50pm PT
Tom- Is the slide scanning getting any easier?
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Nov 9, 2009 - 08:40pm PT
heythere say, dear (nov. 10, edit) "~~~~~~~~~~~~~", say.... if you look back, very kindly, you will see that i was so very delighted to see this wonderful find about this superb piece of rock...

i just love it...

and--i gave werner a very nice salute as to its magnifigance...

then, suddenly gobees's post arrose here, and i thought it was kind of a cute gesture how the name was used for his fast share of the another good book.... i was just being kind and polite to his use of such...

thus, i don't think i have done harm, so sadly must reply to you, it seems okay for me to leave my post here...

even as we all, seek to reply nicely to the post of others...

i am still very graciously awaiting more shares about the spectacular rock, called the good book:

being i am very curious about the rock slide...
thus far, i think i have taken care here at ol' supertopo, not to harm my beloved friends....

god bless to you, dear friend, as well, and may you have a very nice supertopo night, this eve, and many safe climbs and wonderful times, with your buddies, in doing so...

love to you, from ol' neebee...


*oops, and edit:
i am so looking forward to some great pics here, and too... :)



nov. 10, edit: dear "~~~~~~~~~~" look forward to seeing you again, with some neat post to share.... >:D
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Nov 9, 2009 - 08:44pm PT
heythere karl baba... say, also, i had forgot to get this in, as to your interesting share:

as to your quote:
Much safer than the north face of the Eiger or Matterhorn

More dangerous than most of the rest of Yosemite

wow--i did NOT know this... thanks for the share... oh my!

still hope to see which pics are of the good book and which are of the wild things...

*have the gift to send you, too... was late for the mail today...
feel well and keep smiling... (like the injured list post, i will pop up there soon... have my own injury story) ... ;)
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 9, 2009 - 08:46pm PT
I deleted mine, Neebee. Back to the climbing...
Fuzzywuzzy

climber
suspendedhappynation
Nov 10, 2009 - 12:18pm PT
Steve -

Been climbing instead?!!

Such a bout of sterling weather I couldn't help myself!!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 10, 2009 - 02:05pm PT
Much mo betta!!!
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Nov 10, 2009 - 07:01pm PT
hey there steve grossman... say, you're a good guy.... :)

*maybe i should still leave my reply, to "~~~~~" in case someone else doesn't understand that one post of mine... but i will "fix it a tad" for a friend... ;)
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 15, 2009 - 04:38pm PT
Climbing Thread Bump!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 10, 2010 - 11:31am PT
The Good Bump!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 16, 2010 - 10:20pm PT
Every now and then...
Kalimon

Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
Jul 18, 2010 - 06:07pm PT
I fail to recall the year in which I did this route with Norman Boles, Vince DePasque (sp.?) and John Tuttle . . . probably early to mid-80's. I had the fortune of getting to lead the classic "10d" liebacking corner pitch (completely dry at the start) and the following 5.9 to wild 5.8 undercling pitch. We definitely had friends at this point, making the lieback easy to protect, although I recall stuffing them blindly above me in a few spots. There had been no rockfall in those days but I did note some looseness on the topo's approach pitch . . . we must have done two to get to the start of the corner at Security Ledge as the Yellow Meyers guide indicates 180' to the ground from there. We were using 150' ropes in those days. One of the things I remember most about this adventure is that for whatever reason only Vince and I climbed to the top of the Folly pinnacle proper . . . Norman and John bailed (not due to lack of ability) and Norman told Vince not to let me bail without completing the remainder of the climb. Vince was living in the Valley in those days and he cruised the final two pitches while I gratefully seconded them. I recall seeing an original Harding ring angle at the belay below the final pitch or possibly the 10b hand pitch. The 5.9 OW was crisp and not too difficult, so the bolt removal should not be an issue except for the fact that it was nostalgic to see original Harding gear on a route. I remember the wonderful position at the top being wild and having a big wall feel to it and am grateful for Norman to this day for seeing to it that I completed the entire route. Thanks to all of my old friends and climbing partners for all those special years!
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Jul 18, 2010 - 06:49pm PT
talking about that fourth pitch: 1974




The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jul 18, 2010 - 08:56pm PT
Your photos remind me, Peter, of watching Bridwell lead that pitch from the exact same vantage point the two spectacular photos of you were taken.

Ron, Dale and I were surprised to watch Brid easily move right across that traverse, and then downright astonished when he diasappeared entirely above the sharp flake jutting out and barely visible just to your right in the second photo. The flake blends in so well with the roof above it.

The last thing we expected was a place to lie down in the middle of the roof - we didn't even know if we could free it at all, and it turned out to be a piece of cake!

A fine moment that was.

Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Jul 18, 2010 - 10:15pm PT
Kevin, it must have been sublime! That is some of what ground-up first ascents are about, what they offer us. That magic, discovery, delight, ferocity and secret puzzles. A great FFA, K. Really.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 25, 2010 - 01:31am PT
Great shots, Peter!

That route is packed with pleasant surprises and must have been a blast on the FFA!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 27, 2010 - 04:00pm PT
The Good Bump.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 14, 2011 - 03:19pm PT
Classic Laybump!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 11, 2012 - 05:48pm PT
The Good Bump rides again...
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Mar 11, 2012 - 05:57pm PT
a photo from above last Fall. Lots of big stuff came down.
I bet the Book is still Good however!

Credit: Studly
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Mar 11, 2012 - 05:59pm PT
my favorite is paul 16:1 where he says that

all good men shall imbide in the sweetleaf and find harmony among his brethren and sisteren,

and so it is written.

on earth, as it is in heaven,

that means you don't have to die, you can experience heaven rite here on earth,


David Wilson

climber
CA
Mar 11, 2012 - 09:37pm PT
did this route in the fall. it was as good as I recalled from my last ascent in the 80's. splitter valley cracks. we wore helmets, for whatever that's worth given the size of the rock fall in question. the first pitch is exposed to incoming, but all the rest of the route was untouched by the rock fall and is protected by the right leaning corner
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Mar 11, 2012 - 10:44pm PT
I climbed up to Security Ledge, I believe it's called, one day with Yabo, to see if the route might go free. There was some talk around camp of the possibility, but nobody had taken the initiative. The start of the corner was wet and grassy, and full of little frogs. I was careful not to squish any as I slowly nailed up the crack on 1 inch and 1 1/4 inch angles. After about thirty feet of gardening, it was done, and one little frog continued up the crack in a full body stem, one hand and foot on one side of the crack, the other hand and foot on the opposite side, facing out looking me right in the eye.

I was optimistic about freeing it.

We freed The Right side of The Folly shortly after Bridwell and I did The Crucifix. Bridwell had chosen that name before we climbed it, and I had no objections, so The Crucifix it was. In that era, free climbing was such an important emerging facet of Yosemite climbing, aid routes that were done free were renamed, typically with a new name completely different than the original. Astroman, Freeblast, Freestone are examples.

In that spirit, after trying to think of an appropriate new name for The Folly, and sleeping on it, I approached Big Jim and suggested The Good Book. As with The Crucifix, I liked the "religious" theme because our little tribe was devoted to climbing like many are to religion, only our "place of worship" seemed more real and powerful than theirs. I told Jim I thought it was a cool name because the big open book was open in the direction of and visible from Camp Four, and beckoning all the climbers who lived there to read its contents, so to speak

Plus it's just plain good.

The Godfather approved, and the name stuck.

David Wilson

climber
CA
Mar 12, 2012 - 11:29am PT
better have a couple more pics for this thread

pitch 2
pitch 2
Credit: David Wilson

5.9 offwidth on last pitch
5.9 offwidth on last pitch
Credit: David Wilson
WBraun

climber
Mar 12, 2012 - 12:20pm PT
The Godfather approved, and the name stuck.

LOL

The "Good Book" is one of the all time best climbs in Yosemite.

If you haven't done "The Good Book" you haven't been to Yosemite .....
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
Mar 12, 2012 - 04:13pm PT
I have nothing to say. I never did the route. Damn.
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
Mar 12, 2012 - 04:17pm PT
I'm going to go to Yosemite one of these years, I hope.
WBraun

climber
Mar 12, 2012 - 05:43pm PT
Definitely not the Good Book.

This means you've never been to Yosemite .... :-)
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Mar 12, 2012 - 08:18pm PT
Last pitch of Reed's Direct Route up there - Werner's never done it, the boom box gets wedged.
all in jim

climber
Mar 12, 2012 - 09:18pm PT
Credit: all in jim
TrundleBum

Trad climber
Las Vegas
Mar 13, 2012 - 04:20am PT
I did it a cpl of times BITD
Once with J. Rutt
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Ok so Bus' out, who's got the skinny?
I want to hear a recount of Yabo's solo, peal/recovery !

Werner ?
jaaan

Trad climber
Chamonix, France
Mar 13, 2012 - 04:59am PT
Thanks Warbler. I'll delete the post now as it has nothing to do with the thread. I do remember climbing GB in 1980 and finding the offwidth (last?) pitch the hardest. So what part of the route has fallen down?
That photo of all in jim's just above is fabulous...
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Mar 13, 2012 - 09:54am PT
No part of the route has fallen down, but large pieces of the cliffs high above have, so the base and big ledge below the corner have been hit by rockfall.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Mar 13, 2012 - 10:59am PT
great thread with some great images
here's a low resolution image of The Folly that's tweaked up to be contrasty and revealing...



of course Good Book is the right facing corner on the right, mostly in the shadows, the picture also shows the infamous Wild Thing pretty well...

you should always take note of the vegetation around the base of the cliffs, if there isn't any it's usually from gravitational pruning...
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Mar 13, 2012 - 01:00pm PT
Nice clean photo, Ed.

You can see the alternate start possibility real well that I mentioned upthread. It would begin in that S-curving obtuse dihedral about 50 to 100 ft left of the standard broken start.Traverse left a bit at the top of the first dihedral and belay on a horizontal fracture/white ledge. Pitch two would follow a right leaning seam to another horizontal fracture line, possibly an alternate belay, and find it's way to a shadowed, shallow vertical right facing corner which leads to the big ledge.

I always thought The Left Side of the Folly above Childhood's End could make a good free route - one pitch looks pretty vegetated, but there are some cool looking cracks and corners up there....
David Wilson

climber
CA
Mar 13, 2012 - 01:01pm PT
Great pic Ed - do you know where the line of Wild Thing is in that photo? Looks kind of discontinuous to the left of Good Book
WBraun

climber
Mar 13, 2012 - 01:08pm PT
Just step out left and you'll find it David.

I just went that way and it became obvious once out there and around the corner.

Go for it .....
David Wilson

climber
CA
Mar 13, 2012 - 01:12pm PT
you end up in some crazy cave on wild thing - right Werner? Dave Altman has always told me it's a must do
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Mar 14, 2012 - 03:04am PT
Wild Thing, I'm sure you've looked in the guidebook already...
step left off the ledge with the visible stacked blocks at the base of The Good Book corner, onto the face and over to a vertical crack.

That goes up to a big square-ish block, tunnel through to the left side of that block and up the cracks that form the upper left side of The Folly on the Left Side route upper pitches.

I'm skeptical that Left Side would go free for someone like me... it's aid from the top of that big flake laying at the base on the lower left to the point where Wild Thing intercepts it...
peter croft

climber
Mar 14, 2012 - 09:45am PT
Kevin, you sure got in on some good ones. As well the route names you picked were so perfectly matched with the climbs that they quickly rose to world famous-ness. Living in Canada I never had to explain to other climbers where the Crucifix or the Good Book was.
Anyway, my "special" time on the Good book started late one day in the Camp 4 lot when my friends were trying to decide between dinner and the bar. I was thinking climbing but it was late in the day. Like you said, Kevin, the Good Book looks over the campground and it didn't take me long to make the choice.
So I grab my shoes and run down there, look up and...Perfect! no one on the route. Deep in the shade the temps are perfect and the splitter cracks glide by. Man, this is so cool! I get up to the off width (the so-called easy pitch) and even that is fun. I grab the summit spike, straddle it and look out across the Valley listening to the swifts.
I can't wait long though 'cause the sun's left the Valley floor a long time ago. I launch down into the off width (always been lousy at the OWs) and start cuddling. 40 feet down my left knee gets stuck - kinda funny at first. After 5 minutes it's not funny at all and after 15 minutes I'm contemplating bivi-ing off my knee - it simply will not budge.
Finally I figure out that I need to try move up a body length or two. After spazz-ing around for a few more minutes I was able to do this, pull the leg out and continue down, this time with my knee definitely outside the crack.
By this time the lower corners have gone into gloom but thank goodness there's no fancy foot work and nothing is nearly as hard as the easiest pitch on the route.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 14, 2012 - 10:54am PT
Great story Peter!

How to get the most out of a route...LOL
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Mar 15, 2012 - 12:29pm PT
Timing is everything, eh Peter?

I was fortunate to have my experience up there - sounds like you had the ultimate one - the thought of downclimbing that lieback, solo, gives me the creeps, BIG TIME.

Way impressive!

And Ed, both Wild Thing and the Right Side are easier than they look. Chances are The Left Side would be the same...

Those triple splitters look like Bishop's Terrace on steroids
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 1, 2012 - 01:20pm PT
Bump for the Folly of it all!
bob

climber
Apr 1, 2012 - 03:30pm PT
Damn Peter. That sounds so nutty to me. You even write casually about it!

Bob J.


PS JUST NUTTY!!!!
Double D

climber
Apr 1, 2012 - 04:37pm PT
Great tale Peter... mucho hevos grandes! I'm with Kevin... down-climbing that slimy lieback section makes me a little yellow...
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Apr 24, 2012 - 03:18pm PT
A few friends went up and did this over the weekend. They reported that there was fresh shrubbery growing in the crux pitch and the first pitch resembled a waterfall. Guess it might be a little while before it dries out.

FYI!

Luke
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Apr 24, 2012 - 04:49pm PT
Great tale Peter... mucho hevos grandes! I'm with Kevin... down-climbing that slimy lieback section makes me a little yellow...

At this point in my life, up-climbing that lieback would start me trembling!

John
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Apr 24, 2012 - 05:16pm PT
I remember being up there with Ron Fawcett who had a 250 foot 9mm rope and we took turns climbing up and down the lyback pitch with a top rope. You could really get the burn on.

Tobin or someone also did a hard face thing around there I vaguely remember. like a direct start or something. Had some hard crimping on it as I recall. Man, that was like 2,000 years ago . . .

JL
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 6, 2012 - 01:03pm PT
Gud Bump...
dustonian

climber
May 24, 2012 - 02:26pm PT
Did this route during a short trip last week... super bitchin! Definitely worried about rockfall so tried to move fairly quickly on the hike in & out. Route itself feels fairly sheltered except for the first pitch, which is still pretty blocky and loose. Rest of the climbing is spectacular!
dhayan

climber
los angeles, ca
Oct 22, 2013 - 01:26am PT
Good Book Bump !
RP3

Big Wall climber
Sonora
Oct 22, 2013 - 02:56am PT
Fantastic thread. I Climbed The Good Book for the first time a few months ago. Too much fun! Can't wait to go back...
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Oct 22, 2013 - 07:37pm PT
An early ascent of the Good Book in B&W
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