The Good Book

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 130 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
NoRushNoMore

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - May 7, 2007 - 07:37pm PT
So what's the story here?

We did this climb last weekend, nothing was falling down from above, first pitch is loose though but can be cleaned in a couple hours from a few loose blocks. Anybody else has gone on it recently?

Also, what's the deal with the bolts on P6, why did they get chopped?

Pitch 4 (Wild 5.8) is super fun, some incredible and exposed climbing
WBraun

climber
May 7, 2007 - 07:39pm PT
If there are some bolts missing at the anchors then the bolt police musta been there.

There are some self made bolt policemen always around.

Pricks, you know who ya are .......
NoRushNoMore

climber
Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2007 - 07:48pm PT
Chopped bolts are next to off-width, all anchor bolts are intact
WBraun

climber
May 7, 2007 - 07:55pm PT
Those were old and if they got taken out no big deal.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
May 7, 2007 - 08:00pm PT
No big deal pro-wise, but more retrofitting of history. Thank you, self righteous bolt police, you as#@&%es!

Probably very nice people in a different context.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 7, 2007 - 08:01pm PT
I'm gonnah go an' put em back in, plus add some, then start a thread about it: werd.
Things been just too tame on the taco of late.
WBraun

climber
May 7, 2007 - 08:09pm PT
I agree to tame ....

It's time to raise hell.

They said there is no hell, but we'll show em .....
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 7, 2007 - 08:18pm PT
Yah Werner, lets Rock.

[Click to View Linked Image]
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
May 7, 2007 - 08:26pm PT
Go, guys, put in some wierdness that will blow my fragile mind!
Brutus of Wyde

climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
May 7, 2007 - 09:26pm PT
My understanding is that when the bolted anchors were replaced with new stainless 3/8" bolts, the crew doing the replacing removed the quarter inchers on the OW and did not replace them, since with modern gear the OW can be protected quite adequately without the bolts.

Brutus
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
May 7, 2007 - 10:19pm PT
What he said, glad they were there for first dozen or so times I climbed it, kind of a grounding thing.

On the other hand, maybe the chopper's ("theives of time™") kids can go to college through ebay sales.
WBraun

climber
May 7, 2007 - 10:38pm PT
You guys are a sentimental bunch?

but "The Good Book" is one of the most beautiful classic free routes here.

10 stars .....
Mimi

climber
May 8, 2007 - 12:23am PT
Try eleven.

Lovely thread.
Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
May 8, 2007 - 12:25am PT
I'd give it 15 stars if Werner would go and dig out the first pitch.... prolly 70ft of climbing under that rubble..... Did I ever tell you guys about the time me and
Walt did Wild Thing??????
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 8, 2007 - 12:26am PT
If you guys aren't bitin' into bolt wars,
Then shoot, I'm just goin' to post up pictures instead:

[Click to View Linked Image]

[Click to View Linked Image]

[Click to View Linked Image]

[Click to View Linked Image]

[Click to View Linked Image]





Jaybro

Social climber
The West
May 8, 2007 - 12:52am PT
yeah, that right folly is about as good as they get.

but what about that, other, whil thang tale, Mr walling?
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
May 8, 2007 - 02:10am PT
The Good Book is my favorite Yosemite free climb;...I did this with Wally Barker , and I loved it. I heard about the rock fall, and I was told that it was not climbable anymore;...glad to hear otherwise. Great shots too, Roy. It is one of my favorite climbs anywhere, actually;...it's awesome.
Clayman

Trad climber
CA, now Flagstaff
May 8, 2007 - 02:37am PT
Are the first pitch belay bolts still bent down or have those been replaced?
nate23

Trad climber
c-ville, virginia
May 8, 2007 - 08:23am PT
is there a new yosemite free climbs coming out? I went up there and the biggest thing I had was 1 #3 cause there were all the bolts on the topo. I just kept climbing and climbing trying to get to the first one. * for sure
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
May 8, 2007 - 09:19am PT
It was always on my tick list, perhaps one day.

That sure looks like a lot of rubble at the base of The Good Book. Did it come from the big scar above (dumb question?)
(Kevin, I remember when you guys freed the route, as I was watching you.)

http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/gallery.html?r=yofogood

Also, what about that big scar above Rixon's, how recent is that and how much rockfall?

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