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dhayan
climber
culver city, ca
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Can you guys just tell me who is the coolest when you figure it out?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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They did the “Skip the Wide, Boys,” variation.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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😂
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Always get the data.
So I have to admit - watching Pam max out on a climb is way more interesting than watching her talk smack as in the other 99% of the video.
She looks pretty hot here.
However - I have to say - the Wide Boys beta looks pretty obvious and more correct.
EDIT: From about 8:50 to 9:20 - the rest of that video is nails on a chalkboard to me.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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That hand crack practically smacks you in the face, why wouldn't that be the more obvious and protectable choice to begin with??
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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more correct
ROFL!
So, this entire thread exists to bash on Pam for supposedly hyping, etc. Oh, whoops, the SA didn't even do the business, and now the defenders of this demonstrably false attack-thread "justify" this absurdity with "more correct."
BS
Steaming, heaping piles of BS.
You can't "huge downgrade" what you didn't even do, and you can't "justify" a "huge downgrade" by lamely saying, "Well, but they did it the more correct way." It's a variation, which is fine in itself. But there's no "more correct" way to get up the rig. Pam rated what SHE did, and that has not had a "huge downgrade".
Just own it: This whole thread is a cluster-fornication based upon what is dangerously close to a lie.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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This is just an outdoor version of colored routes at the gym.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Yeah - mkay...
So here's a legit - consensus - mere 12- - just for comparison.
[youtube=https://youtu.be/W2ga4SVOyTI]
This chick looks long, lean and strong - like she'd fuk Pam's routes up - with just a little more experience.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
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No, it just means its bad beta.
That is the foundation of climbing as a way to pass time- finding something with a perfectly good way to walk up the backside, and then using bad beta to make it more difficult. Why split hairs over someone finding a more difficult way than most (any?) of us can do?
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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yes, there are a lot of unfriendly competition in OW climbing. I remember when Wide boys came touring in US from what they speak it was obvious for me that they came mostly to make a statement than they better OW climbers than "local" and climbing was secondary goal.
No surprise that when they place "objective" trip report - they try to intentionally put down any American OW climbers
Even though CC is 12+ tops
How do you know this Smassey?
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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She couldnt even do a 10+ Pam put up onsight. Haha - that's funny - climbing chicks - they all fuking hate each other!
My money is on Brother project sender chick in a street fight, hands down.
She does look inexperienced - a fixable problem - but she had the strength to eventually send a physical route and it's obvious to watch - can't BS that.
And frankly turning that lip on Brother looks way f'n harder than KA.
Watch out Pam!
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Alexey,
Do you have a link to Pete and Tom putting down local climbers? One of the things that always impressed me about those guys is that they always seemed stoked and humble, I have never heard either of them put down another climber. While I think PSP is an awesome and talented climber I can't say the same for her including her homophobic slur a few years back. Let your climbing speak for itself.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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this is how I remember from full movie. This was said by Pete not very direct way, but with some interpretation it looks very obvious at least for me. I accept that someone can interpret the same thing differently and even do not notice anything wrong.
I can not find this episode quickly, but
here is short video, different episode, Tom is speaking - your can watch from ~2:00
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BWg1VfHmq3E
and the way how they advertise the trip:
"The Wide Boyz Take Over American Offwidth Climbing"
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Alexey, seems like the Americans were the ones making the claims that Pete and Tom were out to make a statement. Looks to me like Pete and Tom worked their asses off and climbed hard and had fun. I still haven't read or heard them talk down about any other climbers and downgrading a climb isn't the same as bad mouthing.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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yes, downgrading a climb is much more civil way than bad mouthing but can hurt even more.
BTW, I am not taking any side, I am just try to say that in this case grades up or down sometimes reflects relations between OW climbers and their claims to be the best
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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My recollection of it all is those guys came over here with the intent to uncover and expose the big OW grading lie - but in a streak of inexperience and occasional weakness - not to mention the prospects of good sponsor PR and making a movie - they fell to the Dark Side!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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The new ow climbs have moved way out of the pay grade of this aging climber. Interesting perspectives here....bitd most ow climbs needed upgrading rather than downgrading.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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JLP,
How are they exposing the big OW grading lie when they worked their butts off for two years prior to their trip? Sounds like they knew the routes were hard and didn't want to walk away empty handed. The fact that they worked so hard toward a goal goes to show just how hard these OW routes are, not how soft the grades are.
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Yeah, well, what's getting lost in the new ecumenicism here is that this thread exists to bash on Pam, and that's how it has been largely employed. When bashing is legit, that's one thing. But this was not, so it was just painful.
Instead of CYA with "bad beta," why not man up and admit: "We jumped to conclusions. Sorry, Pam."
Again, it's pretty disgusting how other climbers are quick to dogpile one of their own on the basis of pretty thin "evidence."
It's clear that some just don't like Pam, so they are quick to see just what they are looking for when what they are looking for is a "reason" to rip her.
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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^^^ So, I've learned something about you, personally, now that I'll file away for future reference: Being "right" is more important than being reasonable/honest.
They did NOT climb "the same piece of rock." That is now beyond debate. But you just move the definition of "same" to mean, I guess, something closer to "same formation" or something like that.
Once I see that somebody is just playing games to cover their incorrect claims, I quit arguing.
This thread is a cluster-fornication based on bad CLAIMS, not "bad beta."
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