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HeschMonster
Trad climber
Morro Bay
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May 16, 2019 - 09:50am PT
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I think it is not fair...and it is downright insulting and condescending to claim that a move that required his full 6'+ wing span ( see image https://cdn-uploads.mountainproject.com/forum/106196.jpg ) would work for someone of a 4ft index. Sure, he can argue that his arms and chest were not completely flat against the rock, but it does not take a pro to know that you need at least some flex in your span when climbing a fridge. He looked quite strained to me in that picture.
...I'm just calling out injustice as I see it.
I can't help but notice that Tom's L arm seems to be buried in a jam, putting his L elbow at the edge of the block. Were he to be fridging the block, it would barely be wide enough to compress. Seems to be 48" *at the most*.
I'll certainly agree he looks strained but i'm not sure this rises to the level of an injustice. Me thinks the meaning of words has certainly adjusted to suit modern "correctness," whatever that is. (Mei, no slight towards you, rather commentary of modern societal reactivity, at large).
full disclosure, I've equal respect for the fact that both FA and SA made it up the climb clean, simple as that. Oddly, I don't feel the need to denigrate either party, just happy for both of them to climb something that I never will.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 18, 2019 - 06:50am PT
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Congrats to two teams on two different routes
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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May 18, 2019 - 09:00am PT
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Trees are hard to climb too.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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May 18, 2019 - 04:25pm PT
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they should be sought after classics that many people would enjoy, not overhyped monuments for attention seeking behavior in Long Canyon.
The problem with this is, someone has decided how the whole world is to approach a given climb, according to the tastes of someone coming along after the FA. The FA has always been the team who decides the style of how something is done. You can squak all you want about how he or she did their business, but chopping bolts and enforcing your ethic on others is a pretty bold step, because it opens other routes up for "revision" should they not reflect the given ethic or personality style favored by the revisionist. What's more, because these things always go public, what's often the case is that a rock policeman resents the attention others, considered unworthy, are getting, which should go to someone more deserving, humbler, someone who fits their idealized profile of who we should be. Not saying this is the case here, but this is a slippery slope - of that we may be sure.
I sense in this case that personality clashes were a large part of the whole debacle, a kind of we versus them vendetta. Perhaps someone only wanted to recast a couple routes in a form more in keeping to their personal style. I don't know. For me, back when I was a relevant, active climber, I made many early repeats on routes I would have engineered differently (almost always with less bolts), but was never up to putting all the brutal and expensive work in to retooling an existing route when I could be out there doing other new ones. My sense of this is there are dwindling new routes to do in this area, and only so much notoriety and bragging rights (even of the humble kind) left as well. I suspect once that enters the equation, this is what happens. It reminds me of political conflicts, when a group or individual decides that they have the moral authority to impose their will on a sovereign people. What makes this tricky is the revisions mentioned were the very things I thought about per the routes that offended me, and I didn't follow through on moral grounds, but because I was interested in other things.
Sorta sad to see.
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