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Tradiban
climber
Madison, WI
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Bolting Giant City for lead seems like a pretty good idea. Those cliffs aren't really made for TRing. There's only a few places where TR matters and Giant City aint one of them.
Bolting it actually made it harder so why the bitching if it's all about the "adventure". Is the "adventure" the part about slipping on dry leaves toward the edge on top?
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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"Adventure" only makes sense in the context of how and where it is used. Context in this regards typically means tradition, and the rules - unofficial or otherwise - that apply.
For example, in the climbing world, a roped safety system has long been accepted as fair game. The rules of free climbing say we can use the gear/system for safety, but not for upward propulsion. Someone who does so is "cheating" if they frig on gear and call THAT free climbing.
"Adventure climbing" refers to many things, but for the ones repeating a so-called adventure route, the gold standard style is to start at the bottom and on-site the whole shebang, hand-placing gear for pro and belays. If at some point you are not up to climbing the route as is, and you physically alter it to reduce difficulty or mental challenge/risk, you are by definition, "cheating."
In the larger picture, the "adventure" is mostly found through encountering the unknown, where the outcome is never known beforehand. It also - like repeating an adventure route - demands that so far as we can, we embrace the environment as is, leaves and all, and we don't alter the terrain to make things easier or more convenient.
This concept is lost on some venturing to a place like Josh, expecting to find rap stations on top of every route, and are angered when they don't. This attitude is largely born from the gym, and seeks to transform climbing areas into vertical style theme parks fitted with "safe," E-ticket climbs. That's a sport climbing cliff. Great fun, but not the only venue.
Some argue that a first attempt team has no "right" to determine how they climb - so if a route is "dangerous," they have the right to change it. This goes against the spirit of adventure which says, basically, that you leave things alone.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 6, 2018 - 04:13pm PT
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Those cliffs aren't really made for TRing. There's only a few places where TR matters and Giant City aint one of them.
Well, you're 0 for 2 there.
Bolting it actually made it harder...
It actually makes is much, much easier so now you're 0 for 3.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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I think you all need to get off your asses and away from the net and get out and have some fun! Bolts or No Bolts Ground Up Or Top Down who cares.
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