Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
|
|
Rifle and AF are choss cliffs turned world class sport climbing destinations because of power drills.
|
|
Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
|
|
Wilderness is under your house and out your front door. We might as well stop driving and using circular saws as well as head lamps
|
|
steve s
Trad climber
eldo
|
|
Ain't giving up my circ saw or my chain saw.
|
|
thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
|
|
most people are mostly reasonable when handed a powerful tool designed to impose irrevocable change.
most of them, mostly.
|
|
drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
|
|
but maybe you could tell us precisely why power drills were necessary?
Because they exist and are legal.
No one would've f ucked with that choss if power drills were illegal there.
|
|
mueffi 49
Trad climber
|
|
If you want to know what powerdrills do to the rocks - go and visit the alps where you will find bolts placed right along perfect handcracks.
I left Europe 30 years ago exactly for that reason, in the meantime there have been probably 1 million bolts placed all over Europe - all with powerdrills.
Imagine the stovelegs and actually all of the Nose prepped with bolts, is that where we want to go?
I know that what happened over there cannot be reversed but at least we should think about that side of the coin.
|
|
Stupid Merican
climber
Crankloon, OH
|
|
Drill them all & let the Werner figure it out
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
Then it becomes a grade 4 afternoon climb, 5 hours max.
It already is.
|
|
clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
|
|
At the least we should regulate the battery size to a four bolt placing capacity, similar to prop 63 here in California. Slow the capability and increase the weight of batteries packed in. ;)
Dingus, I would gladly clip every bolt on your routes. I think it would be wise to consider only hand drilling on any route establishment at some point. Carry on.
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
OMG Bolts! On top of Angels Landing in Zion! There were actually two anchors next to each other (no clue what for but they were not rock climbing anchors). Some from this forum would have a heart attack if they saw it... Never mind the manufactured trail, chains for people to hold on to etc etc.
My opinion is that people get way too worked up over a few bolts that only are visible to rock climbers when on routes. Even to rock climbers on routes, at times it is hard to spot them, as they are not usually placed so closely on ground up free climbs.
I am against the legalization of power drills in the wilderness for the general public. Whoever is breaking rules can face consequences of getting caught. But I believe it would be great if it was allowed for ASCA to replace old bolt with a power drill with maybe some sort of sound barrier? As the bolts age there will be more and more of them to replace. At some point we will start seeing increase in the number of bolt failures and then, I believe, land managers could put some restrictions on rock climbing in such areas. Never know though, hope none of it will happen and enough volunteers are dedicating their time to serving the community.
|
|
RyanD
climber
|
|
Laws aside. I'm sure if there was Bosch's in the 60's nobody would have used them.
|
|
clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
|
|
Laws aside. I'm sure if there was Bosch's in the 60's nobody would have used them.
Compressors
I am against the legalization of power drills in the wilderness for the general public. Whoever is breaking rules can face consequences of getting caught. But I believe it would be great if it was allowed for ASCA to replace old bolt with a power drill with maybe some sort of sound barrier? As the bolts age there will be more and more of them to replace. At some point we will start seeing increase in the number of bolt failures and then, I believe, land managers could put some restrictions on rock climbing in such areas. Never know though, hope none of it will happen and enough volunteers are dedicating their time to serving the community.
Eavesdropping V? The Pinnacles "volunteers" have hand replaced an insane number of bolts and it would be much safer to wait until they are in wheel chairs to change methods.
|
|
Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
|
|
You really don't believe the issue is noise pollution, right?
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
e Pinnacles "volunteers" have hand replaced an insane number of bolts and it would be much safer to wait until they are in wheel chairs to change methods.
The pinnacles is a great place to dry tool, rock climbing meh. Pretty damn fun to clear sh#t rock with tools and crampons and hand drill from hooks or connected to a jammed ice tool in a tiny construction. Glad the place is so huge..
I agree with Warbler, hand drilling produces sound pollution for way longer. Boom boxes at crags along with crying babies and dogs are more annoying than power drills! Helicopter rescues from el cap etc should also be banned. Self rescue or die.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
|
pinnacles is a great place to dry tool
buahahaha
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
Best in cali, that's for sure
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
Me too. Would be too overwhelming! What to start from?! If I did, would be great to climb with you. Go out and do your thing, in the now. In the present time, there are too many distractions that are hard to avoid clicking on or reading about. This year I spent most of my time in the backcountry starting end of July and it was so great...was likely more enjoyable to live in an era before all the pollution.
|
|
wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2016 - 04:36pm PT
|
Not a noise issue but perhaps a real estate issue? It's been touched on. Way more bolts way faster.....Anytime I see a face or slab climb longer then 6 pitches harder then 5.11c anywhere with 3/8" bolts done in a weekend, I'm assuming power drill no matter where..... Electric courage. The ability to hang on with one hand/hooks allows for more resource use. As you say Warbler, 15 seconds vs. 15 mins. That's a lot more ground in a lot less time. I'm not judging how folks climb. Still plenty of rock left in my lifetime for all to climb in whatever way they please but sport climb walls are going up in some nice places using electricity in the Wilderness with a capitol "W". It would be nice to have full disclosure of how routes were done (tools used etc.) when people post there grand adventures.....
|
|
Ken M
Mountain climber
Los Angeles, Ca
|
|
I believe the USFS, BLM,and NPS use power tools to make trails in low angle Wilderness....
Not true. I am a trail crew leader for 15 years on the NFS. We do not use power tools of any kind, not even wheelbarrows, without special permission related to safety issues, which are issued very infrequently (I only know of two instances in the Sierra in the last 15 years). Almost all such requests are turned down.
|
|
Ken M
Mountain climber
Los Angeles, Ca
|
|
You people just make this up out of your heads and irresponsibly display it as absolute truth and then make laws as your phony religion of "Climbing".
"Sun", you lose all credibility when you challenge known, proven climbers on this site, while definitively stating that the law (Wilderness Act) was passed because of "two people".
It was not, troll.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!