stolen BD#5, intersection rock

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Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Dec 4, 2014 - 09:34am PT
oops. wrong thread. Now I got it figured out ;-)

Some years ago I was walking through that wash by Double Dip with a friend and his new GF. She new nothing of climbing and our mission for the day was to convince her it was sane. We demonstrated good safe climbing and she seemed satisfied. As we headed back to the parking area some nutjobs were engaging in a similar setup as in the picture above, but the climber fell and decked. As we approached the scene someone was saying "Dave! Dave! If you can hear me squeeze my finger!"

Certain climbing areas filter out the idiots. Others seem to be a magnet for those seeking to win a Darwin award. I think for the most part that the number of idiots on the rock is inversely proportional to the length of the approach hike (except at Tahquitz.)
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Dec 4, 2014 - 09:44am PT
Hey Reilly...things have gotten more convenient.
Used to be you had to go in to Santana's to have someone rip off your pack!
You get at-crag service now.
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Dec 4, 2014 - 09:50am PT
The point about cranky noobs is an interesting one and how climbing reflects the society of the day. Indeed Steelmonkey, usually we had mentors. Now, too many too soon just like in the surfing world and especially at Jtree.

True story....I started up walk on the wild side sans rope below a couple before dark. Man was belaying woman from first pitch anchors. Woman started to freak out and refused to go higher. Man started yelling at woman to "get the hell up". I, like a dummy, offered to help get her up through encouragement. Man started yelling at me. I did manage to calm woman down and get her to move but stayed a good distance away remembering that a drowning victim can drag you down as well. But man started to throw broken chips of rock at me. Not good without rope so down climbed outta there. I told man I'd be waiting for him at bottom but man and woman out-waited me until after dark. Don't know where the hell they went......
Lesson learned: Don't offer help between bickering couples and don't solo around people in general.

Steelmonkey, was that a couple? Also, Say hi to my good friend and mentor Mark Wagner if you see him...
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Dec 4, 2014 - 11:01am PT
True story....I started up walk on the wild side sans rope below a couple before dark.

I thought this thread drift was to point out other people's bad decisions.

Just ribbing. Guy sounds like a real dick.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Dec 4, 2014 - 11:19am PT
I thought this thread drift was to point out other people's bad decisions.

Yeah!!! WTF!!?!?! Lets try to stay off point here!! :-) :-)
chill

climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
Dec 4, 2014 - 11:53am PT
nearly fell off while downclimbing (at our request)

In these situations I usually don't feel inclined to interfere with Darwin's important handiwork.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 4, 2014 - 12:06pm PT
Aren't Gyms and Sport climbing areas wonderful places to spawn new trad climbers?

Why do you guys think those people in the photos are noob gym climbers? Maybe they don't give a sh#t about protecting a longass traverse on easy (for them) ground?


The point about cranky noobs is an interesting one and how climbing reflects the society of the day. Indeed Steelmonkey, usually we had mentors. Now, too many too soon just like in the surfing world and especially at Jtree.

That's why stories of some stonemaster dumbass leading with a noose around his neck are soooooo cool. It was sooooo awesome BITD.
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Dec 4, 2014 - 12:15pm PT
OK so back on topic.... Glad you got it back! The climbing community, noobs included (and this idiot) are generally a great lot....
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Dec 4, 2014 - 12:58pm PT
More OT drift...

My experience is that 90% of the time guys, newbie or not, are grumpy about getting advice is when they are with girls.

We just rolled into the turnout for OZ (JT.) There was a group there, 2 guys, two gals. They said they were going to OZ and promptly headed in the wrong direction. I called to them and pointed them the right way. The gals were all nice, thanks and all. The guys were somewhat hostile, didn't believe me at first, pulled out guidebooks, etc.

We caught up with them about halfway up the canyon, they were taking a break. As we passed them I noticed a bunch of Bighorns standing along the other side of the wash. I pointed them out. Everyone was surprised they hadn't seen them. One of the gals said to me "Wow. You'd make an awesome predator." Those two guys just about had smoke coming out of their ears.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 4, 2014 - 01:12pm PT
If you pointed me into the right direction infront of my female climbing partner we would need “to talk.” Big slap to the manhood. Ouch.

Must be all those HGH and testosterone pills gym climbers are into....and rap music.
Gobi

Trad climber
Orange CA
Dec 4, 2014 - 01:30pm PT
I'm guessing the belayer hiked in from the top and threw the rope down but the climber decided to head over and climb Double Dip instead.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Dec 4, 2014 - 01:52pm PT
...in front of my female climbing partner we would need “to talk.” Big slap to the manhood. Ouch.

"...Predator..." Yeah, double whammy slap. Luckily we were going up to the Emerald City and our turnoff was right there. I made a quick escape fearing that I'd be covered in brain matter when their heads exploded.

Oh, and I'm delighted that the OP got his cam back, although for the life of me I don't understand the wide fetish. I get it when it's part of an otherwise wonderful climb, but to search it out for it's own sake?

;-)
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Dec 4, 2014 - 02:53pm PT
Why do you guys think those people in the photos are noob gym climbers? Maybe they don't give a sh#t about protecting a longass traverse on easy (for them) ground?


Um...because she was super sketchy on Double Dip, nearly fell of a few times while deciding if she was going to, and while downclimbing. Pretty obvious when someone is solid on that sort of friction terrain. And there was the interesting discussions going on both with her friend at the base, and after she had downclimbed about what a messed up situation she was in.

Edit: I thought Vitaly might be joking, but not sure. Just wanted to confirm this was a pretty sketchy situation. At one point, the woman stepped off the big flake like she was going to head straight for the belayer. Then she nearly fell off and quickly backed straight to the flake.
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Dec 4, 2014 - 03:19pm PT
I think Vitaly was being facetiious? At least I hope so.
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