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Matt's
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 30, 2014 - 03:39pm PT
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Someone took my BD#5 out of my bag while I was climbing at intersection rock (no I didn't lose it).
It is the new (purple) variety, and has green paint on the inside lobes (which is probably very difficult to remove).
If you see anyone around the campground with one, or trying to sell it, please let me know. I OW a lot and would like to get it back...
Also-- if any pad people are on this site-- if you drove off from joshua tree while leaving your chalk bucket on the top of your car, I probably found it. Describe it to me (and what was inside) and I can return it.
EDIT-- someone on mountainproject accidentally grabbed the cam, and is going to ship it back to me. All's well that ends well!
best
matt
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Nov 30, 2014 - 04:58pm PT
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chalk bucket? in the winter?
therein lies the problem
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Nov 30, 2014 - 05:06pm PT
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Matt, if I find it should I whack the culprit with the wider or closer lobe side?
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Matt's
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2014 - 05:47pm PT
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locker-- you are one big non sequitur.
clinker, you may wack the culprit using any technique you like-- I'd recommend the "swinging battle-axe" method
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Matt's
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2014 - 11:58am PT
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!!!! thanks so much for the link!
(faith in humanity potentially restored)
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Someone took my BD#5 out of my bag while I was climbing at intersection rock (no I didn't lose it).
Glad you got your gear back but maybe that is a lesson in not jumping to conclusions
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dindolino32
climber
san francisco
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She's a witch! BURN HER!
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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If the Camalot floats...definitely a witch!
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Captain...or Skully
climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
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You're better off without it. Those things are junk. Get a big Friend.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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I got full scale nOObery for you Locker...straight from the pages of Hot Belayer Magazine!
This is the day before Thanksgiving (last week). Echo Rock.
Sketchy climber on top of the fat flake at the start of Double Dip. "Belayer" perched on an anchor on the slab just left of Stichter Quits. There's 100 feet or more of rope between them and no protection points.
Physics done visually from below said she was definitely a road pizza skidmark if she fell, but sort of debatable if she would have actually grounded out (very close).
There was a third "climber" on the ground at the base who was absolutely convinced that the "climber" on route was in no danger at all. The "belayer" was completely oblivious of any of this. The woman on the route actually slipped and nearly fell off while downclimbing (at our request) the flake back to the ground.
I'm sure it didn't help when we walked up at the base with comments like "Holy SH*T!" "She's gonna DIE!!!"
If we hadn't happened on this whole clusterf*ck, the woman on the rope was totally planning to climb straight up Double Dip. I could maybe see someone doing this if they were rock solid (just using the rope as a sort of better-than-free-solo option), but she was NOT.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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The really scary thing is that you run across something pretty similar to this EVERYWHERE in JT if you happen to be dumb enough to head to the nOOb spots like Echo, Intersection, Old Woman, Atlantis, Lost Horse, etc. We saw even more nOObery over in Echo Cove that morning before we were over by Double Dip. Not as blatant as this, but obvious the "climbers" in question had no idea what they were really doing.
I really can't believe they're not scraping these completely ignorant gym rats off the ground on a daily basis during the "season" at JT. It's crazy. Not picking on gym climbers really, just can't believe they don't get a little more educated in something that could easily kill or cripple them.
Guess that's why we head for the dick-wrenching mega-classic obscurities most of the time...
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Meh - most of the gear people place in that climb would probably just fall out anyway.
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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I've stopped guiding in a lot of the more popular areas out here because of just this type of thing. I don't want my clients watching idiots trying to kill themselves. There are perfectly good anchors at the top of Double Dip inline of the climb.
Go grab a lawn chair, a beer, and camp out by Toe Jam and watch the "Belay Of Death" some time.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Wow, i have seem some goofy sh*t at Echo. but that is right up there.
I would really like to see a replay of the decision making process the belayer used. I can't imagine he/she actually led Double Dip and ended up over there.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Oakland, CA
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Decision making? They saw the bolts and went right to them.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Steel.... at least she was using a helmet.
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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Edited to correct the horrible sentence in the beginning:
Yup, that's exactly what they did.
They saw the shiny objects over to the right. You have to top out on Double Dip by climbing straight up until it domes over. That's where the anchors are.
This is the same problem on Toe Jam. That's why I call it the "Belay Of Death". They completely miss the perfect horizontal crack at the top, and head straight to the rap anchors.
Aren't Gyms and Sport climbing areas wonderful places to spawn new trad climbers?
You don't even want to know what I have gotten for clients who are "experienced".
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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+1 caughtinside
Matt's that sux, but you do know that the purple 5s are just fist size, not ow. ;)
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