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okie
Trad climber
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Munge apparently has very, um, large fists, or so he claims... #5 fists? Bigger than Molly Higgin's boyfriend "Jim?"
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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Like when that lady was knocked out (I was there, I think you responded via SAR)...
Yup, I was on that one. People get complacent with numbers (ratings)
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Matt's
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2014 - 06:16pm PT
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Update-- the mountainproject poster does in fact have my cam, and is shipping it back to me.
It sounds like there was a gear mix-up in the area. Sh#t happens, and it's cool how the internet lets you solve problems like this.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
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It works best if you just watch out for your own & Fricken take it with you when you go ...camalots are junk anyway.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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I really don't like climbing around lots of other people. I was at Devils Tower a couple months ago and there was a Ton of people on the Southface most of the routes on the Southface go to the Meadows where everyone traverses above all the routes to get to the summit. We had left some gear in the Meadows and soloed to the top. When we came back someone had piled all their gear on top of mine. I took the rope off and stuffed the gear which I thought was all mine on my pack and then repelled. It turns out I had taken part of their rack but did not know that. It caused some uncomfortable moments when somebody came up to me and started saying I had their rack in my pack and I couldn't figure out why but eventually we sorted out. But later that day somebody pulled off a huge flake and it fell several hundred feet rolled down the talus quite a ways and hit some climbers that were walking down the trail After summiting for the first time. The rock was big enough that it caused compound fracture to the guys leg and the shrapnel tore up another guys leg. It was lucky no one was killed.
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CCT
Trad climber
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This may be a dumb question, but if folks are using the wrong anchors to toprope, why not put in some bolts in the correct spot? Looks like Double Dip is a semi-classic run-out 5.6 with an easy walk to the top, so exactly the type of route that's going to attract newbie climbers who f*up their TR's.
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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The young lady is lucky you showed up
that variation of Double Dip needs a name
Don't Quit or Double Drips
Send It or Bend It
Bitch or Quit
and that rope looks kinda thick, sure it is not a garden hose?
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CCT
Trad climber
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Ah, gotcha. I didn't see that post. Glad that no one in the picture cheese gratered.
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cat t.
Sport climber
CA
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Hooray!! Super glad your 5 resurfaced, Matt, and even more glad that people don't suck.
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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That fall would have been very nasty.
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Rolfr
Social climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Steelmnkey,
Good that you convinced that women to down-climb before there actually was an accident. What disturbs me about a lot of the responses is the attitude of them noobies vs us. When did we stop being a community and become jaded to beginners?
The only way to change obvious bad habits is to politely intervene and offer advice, we all had to learn at one point. With experience should come a responsibility to share knowledge, not just sit on the side lines as a critical spectator.
40 years ago when I was a noobie struggling up my first 5.9, a legend in climbing, PC ,shouted and offered encouragement and advice while I floundered. That more than anything defined the meaning of climbing to me.
Matt, glad to hear that you got your cam back, it reaffirms my faith in the climbers community.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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The difference is that many noobs think they know how to climb and are resentful when others try to give them advice about how to do it better, more safely, etc. I once saw a guy climbing a hand crack (well, trying to anyways) by karate chopping his hand in the crack until he felt like it stuck. I walked over and showed him how to place your hand, drop your thumb into your palm, etc. His friend, who he was showing the ropes, tried it, saying 'wow, this really works' and sent. The other guy mumbled, tried it half heartedly and then resumed with his karate chops. His hands were a bloodly mess, but too proud to accept advice.
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MisterE
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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HOLY THREAD DRIFT!
I am hoping Matt's and his cam got reunited.
It's the kind of thing that is mid-December riveting when you got the 10-foot stare in the 8-foot room...
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Thread drift is sometimes a good thing. That photo from Steelmonkey is amazing.
And the Karate chopping post is priceless.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Sorry about the thread drift... glad you got your cam back.
Rolfr wrote:
Good that you convinced that women to down-climb before there actually was an accident. What disturbs me about a lot of the responses is the attitude of them noobies vs us. When did we stop being a community and become jaded to beginners?
I think the type of stuff you would have seen like this 20+ years ago would have been much less of a shocking demonstration of ignorance about safe outdoor climbing practices, so I think the answer to that is that a lot of climbers became jaded when beginners stopped taking responsibility for actually learning something about climbing before they charged off to the outdoor crags and did stuff like this. Obviously doesn't apply to all beginners, but there are a LOT of examples roaming around JT these days. We saw two separate incidents over in Echo Cove the same morning prior to the one depicted in the picture. Very similar, although less egregious. The climbers in both instances obviously had nearly no idea what they were doing. Like I said, I'm really surprised they're not out there every day hauling out piles of crumpled mush that used to be people.
Edit add: Any new climbers who read this, please find someone qualified that can give you instruction on safe climbing practices, take it slow, and learn the ropes (pun intended). It should be fun, not deadly.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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What is the difference between a noobie and a B.A.P.(bay area puke)?
Is a BAP a regional type of a noobie?
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Lulz
Ice climber
North East
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@echo Holly shit! I guess they were climbing stitcher belayed from the top because it's a stretcher top-roping it with a 70m.
Why wouldn't the belayer move over to the anchor at double dip? Newbie central polishing this rock just before Stitcher Quits first bolt...
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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"camp out by Toe Jam and watch the "Belay Of Death" some time."...
Like when that lady was knocked out (I was there, I think you responded via SAR)...
I believe I know the situation you're talking about. The belayer was not a noob but a very experienced and very good climber. Pretty much everyone was incredulous that he set the anchor there, he certainly knew better. Especially since the lady was a very game but not accomplished climber.
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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That was the day that guy was killed on Intersection, IIRC. That WAS a bad day.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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The OP was whining about about one measly cam? Last week at Indian Cove somebody walked off with my buddy's whole pack full of cams and sh!t. I started walking back to my
truck for my Glock 23 when at the next rock I saw the people who had been climbing next to
us. Yup, there was the pack although at first the dude questioned my assertion. Good thing
for him I wasn't on the way back from my truck. Turns out, as I suspected, that seeing as how
they were two families with a six pack of rug rats pandemonium was the order of the day and
when they left they threw everything in sight into their rigs. Doofus had left his pack on the
picnic table with all their stuff. DOH!
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