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Travis Haussener
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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That's not true though...what if you had your bolt kit but were ten seconds late to climb the Bachar Yerian, your plan being a well protected fun sport climb. Now because someone got there before you (by 10 seconds) means you have to do it there way. When in reality you "own" as much of the route as they do...pending you're a tax paying citizen.
I know the scenario is a bit extreme, but give it thought as far as an ethical issue is concerned.
Climbing has also been fundamentally about doing what "you" want to do, not going with the grain but against it. So who's to say "bolts here" but "none here"
I try to abstain from these, but given the good hearted nature of the thread this is my trolled response.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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That's not true though...what if you had your bolt kit but were ten seconds late to climb the Bachar Yerian, your plan being a well protected fun sport climb. Now because someone got there before you (by 10 seconds) means you have to do it there way.
Travis..... at the time the B&Y was climbed, there was no such thing as a "sport climb".......
John did the B&Y in fine style, the bolts went where HE needed them to go so HE could safely do the climb.
Probably the only thing he thought about was what future climbers would think if he over-bolted it.
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Degaine
climber
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What if the FA is a foreigner?
What if the FA is a dentist?
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Dr. Hartouni ('cause Ed is too small to search, and I don't know if you're reading),
Do you have a searchable index for Tuolumne?
Just how many lines was Bachar guilty of robbing from posterity?
If you've got the data, it would be interesting to know what percent of established routes (nevermind the impossible to project number of future/potential routes) people struggling to climb the grade in question will forever only be able to safely experience in abject humility as the second.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Just how many lines was Bachar guilty of robbing from posterity?
You don't need ED ..... just think about it for a second.
ZERO
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ryankelly
Trad climber
el portal
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JL,
I'm glad you put up that second post because driving across Tioga Pass today I came up with all kinds of clever responses to your initial thoughts. However, I appreciate the distinction you made between "climbs" and "routes" and find it very useful. All respect to your perspective, however I still have some thoughts.
Just a couple of days ago I was at the boulders talking with a longtime Yosemite climber about routes that turn lots of folks away. He basically thought that if you aren't up to the route you don't belong there. At first I argued then I realized that I have no need to climb routes that are too bold for me.
Things get blurry these days because so much rehearsing goes into routes before they are "sent" and then "sent" to the mags and other for profit corporations in need of continuous numerical advancement (monetary and on the Yosemite Decimal System). Exceptions do exist for many big climbs (Eric Bissel and Ethan Pringle both had awesome style on their separate sends of the FreeRider) but I'm not sure those achievements make it above the rest of the noise.
Pretty much everyone is chasing numbers of one sort or another, including myself at times.
For me, the best climbing flows from a place of freedom and connection. Comparing yourself to others and attempting to be as bold as them will only take you so far. Perhaps the fear of falling behind the vanguard is why so many dedicated climbers seem to abandon the sport after a period of time.
Communities, like ours, that focus on hero worship and the "great man" theory are often vacuous, just like the article written by the OP.
Folks who climb for the joy of discovery seem to enjoy it for their entire lives.
Events like FaceLift that bring us together face to face do a lot to prevent the type of sarcastic posturing that seems so prevalent in other situations like instagram, blogs, and SuperTopo.
See you all in the Meadow.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Folks who climb for the joy of discovery seem to enjoy it for their entire lives.
Worth repeating.
BTW,
And as a first ascensionist, I also have to worship the ground I walk on and the routes I have created. Multi-tasking at it's best, both creating routes and worshiping myself at the same time. Only the truly gifted would begin to know.
To the masses, wonder in awe. and do repeats of my greatness.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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I just went to Wesley's blog and actually read his rant. It's pretty good, for a young kid today. Pretty logical.
It's a troll but it's a quality troll. A rant that many people may feel deep down inside but are afraid to speak out.
It all starts with a photo where he attempts to blaspheme some of our Yosemite heros, who, as pictured, are obviously quite wasted from smoking something.
I look at those young heros of the walls and see smart young athletes who love climbing so much they lived like beggars to climb a lot.
TheWesleySummers is certainly not of the caliber of those pictured. More he is a whiney emo shadow of these great atheletes. He is a representative of a whiney emo generation that wants their routes protected for them so they don't have to think about it. They are not pioneers, they are spoiled brats. The good news is that there is a lot of virgin territory out there and it is going to be safe from these guys until a bolder generation comes along.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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yes
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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or no
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Crazy eyes. Starts hitting self. Cries.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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I do read... Dr. Melissa Ph.D.
and I don't yet have a searchable index for Tuolumne (but will soon, don't tell Eric) but I posted this a while ago:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=898272&msg=901116#msg901116
the answer to your question: 37
even though guyman is partially right:
You don't need ED ..... just think about it for a second.
ZERO
I do want to be needed, however... (if I weren't allergic to cats, probably kneaded would be enough)
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Is this the "8 symptoms of climbing deprivation" thread?
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Is this the "8 symptoms of climbing deprivation" thread?
Only eight? Is eight enough? Deprivation is a question of how much beer is in your (or your partners) cooler at the parking lot when a day of first ascents is coming to an end.
No beer in the cooler? Tacos and beer at a taqueria on the way home works as well to stave off deprivation. Even burgers and a coke may suffice.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Do first ascensionist have any rights?
Yes
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Whiners have rights
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Problem may be deeper.
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