Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2014 - 06:12am PT
|
They have the intellectual grasp of a four fingered ape scratching it's ass.
Large sack is growing on me.
First Ascensionist is a condition, left untreated it will result in heavy guidebooks.
|
|
clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2014 - 06:44am PT
|
Lash granite girl to a ledge? .....
DMT
6 bolts?
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2014 - 08:58am PT
|
teach your children well...
|
|
granite_girl
Trad climber
Oakland
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2014 - 09:18am PT
|
All I can say is, I think Largo might have me confused with Rapunzel.
|
|
Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2014 - 09:56am PT
|
Rapuz - who? Are you all smart and sh#t Granite Girl? The point of lashing you to that ledge is that eventually the thespian will tire, the drift will divest all cryptonics and coyness and as the sun sets you might just say what you mean. Or we can keep dog paddling in the shallow end. Where's dingus when you need him?
|
|
Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2014 - 10:32am PT
|
Fiddle? Saw awsy sweet pea lol
|
|
granite_girl
Trad climber
Oakland
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2014 - 10:33am PT
|
Yeah, Large Sack, I know. I just meant to give a little dig at what I see as the absurdity of bringing along a big ego to what is essentially supposed to be a fun recreational activity, but I seem to have opened a can of worms bigger than I expected. I feel a little bit bad about that, so I think I'll back off now.
I can only imagine what this discussion would be like if Mark Twight were here.
Edit: Sure, DMT. I've always wanted to climb a bigwall.
|
|
Hawkeye
climber
State of Mine
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2014 - 10:41am PT
|
I just meant to give a little dig at what I see as the absurdity of bringing along a big ego to what is essentially supposed to be a fun recreational activity, but I seem to have opened a can of worms bigger than I expected.
thats the ego escaping....
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2014 - 11:07am PT
|
I bet mark twight would not have enough nerve to post on this forum. Kiss or kill was essentially him bitching about other people downgrading the FAs that he has done. Imagine if he posted a TR here and found oout his routes weren't even FAs...guy would have a heart attack. And all the over dramatic stories...that book was something. Have to give it up to him, many people read it and consider him one of the most bad as climbers ever.
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2014 - 12:16pm PT
|
many people read it and consider him one of the most bad as climbers ever.
I think that was supposed to be "bad ass"
but, maybe I'm being too old school here, and cloistered and all that, but BITD we considered someone "bad ass" by attempting to repeat their routes.
perhaps it explains a lot that in these modern times, one just has to read about it...
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2014 - 02:43pm PT
|
but, maybe I'm being too old school here, and cloistered and all that, but BITD we considered someone "bad ass" by attempting to repeat their routes.
perhaps it explains a lot that in these modern times, one just has to read about it...
Ed, when you read about Messner's oxygen-less blitz ascents of 8000M peaks or about the same ol Bachar Yerian, did you have to repeat those climbs to consider those climbers bad ass? Or did you simply consider it mind-blowing, like the other 99.99% of average climbers out there?
Like defining a “good” climber, the term bad-ass is very relative, and could mean different things to different climbers. It could mean different things to same climber in different stage too. But experienced and relatively green climbers, could all agree that doing something like Slovak Direct on Mt. Denali, in a push, is bad ass. No matter if the source of the opinion will ever have the skills, needed fitness or mental strength to attempt such a climb.
|
|
jgill
Boulder climber
Colorado
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2014 - 03:54pm PT
|
The FA event is gone and always unrepeatable (Dingus)
It's only rock climbing folks (Donini)
I agree. Words of wisdom.
|
|
Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2014 - 04:29pm PT
|
It seems Largo left out a critical word when he said those that add bolts to trad face climbs do a lesser feat when they climb them.
John, please? add the the word "stupid" so those that fail to see this subtly will be able to read the text as, " those that add bolts to trad face climbs do a [lesser] stupid feat when they climb them than did the FAist. I suspect this single word will clear most of the confusion here on ST.
|
|
Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2014 - 05:23pm PT
|
Well this settles it. I'm heading up to the Valley this winter and bolt up The Nutcracker every 6-8 feet. I get tired of waiting in line when I want to climb that thing.
If it were bolted all the way, people would climb it faster and I could climb it faster too.
|
|
BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2014 - 06:33pm PT
|
The question of the original post has been argued to DEATH on this forum and every other forum.
And Large Sack. JGill is John Gill. He soloed the Thimble (as a super highball boulder problem) in 1961. 5.12+ when your hero Largo was probably in grade school.
Not to knock Largo....I'm just letting you know that everyone here is trolling you. I'm speaking up because we are all watching you step in your own doo doo, and it isn't polite of us.
We are lucky to be able to argue with Gill to this day.
He is one of the most famous American climbers. Google him up. Or ask him a question. He is posting on this thread, which makes this place amazing sometimes.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2014 - 10:30pm PT
|
If that aint a troll then im a monkeys uncle
So say for sport climbing. if the bolter doesn't get the FA does the FA get to name it?
|
|
Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
|
|
|
Jul 12, 2014 - 05:59am PT
|
Why is a guy who,only bouldered so respected? I googled him and he has done nothing but circus tricks and climbing little rocks.
The guy seems kinda full of himself...
Since you don't use your name to post, I read your posts on the "...first 5.12" thread. John probably doesn't care if you jerk his chain, but your perspective is a little strange: you give Largo his due--because of his books, instead of his stellar climbing accomplishments--but get your panties twisted because Gill corrected your spelling and urged you to climb outside. I am pretty sure that you are trolling--there are not many climbers with their own page on Wikipedia--but your post is a bit of a head-scratcher?
I assume that you are happy to throw firecrackers into the camp fire with the intent to be funny, or maybe it is because you are from Jersey (since changed to New Delhi), or maybe you are good friends with John and this is an inside joke (are you posting Fitschen or Wunsch?). Nevertheless, I'll answer your post straight.
John is so well respected because none of us could come close to the difficulty of the routes he put up. it took at least 10 years for anyone to catch up--I am thinking John Stannard's (jstan) "Foops". But Donini has already told you this in your 5.12 thread. I can attest to Royal and Pratt and Bridwell knowing that Gill could do things they couldn't do. John's climbs were also not one-move-wonders--some were high off the ground. Besides the difficulty of the routes and John's strength, shown off by the famous picture of him doing a one arms lever, he set a standard of what was possible that 70s climbers worked to match, but only 10 years later. Bachar and Kauk probably came close.
John was also doing his climbing at a time when most of the focus was on big wall aid. While John climbed unroped, when the US climbing community started focusing on all free ascents and pushing the limits, everyone knew that John had surpassed us, 10-15 years earlier.
In any case, John is a cool guy with a wry sense of humor. One of his best gibs: "Those guys on SuperTopo.com talk about being old climbers. They aren't old. They are just veterans."
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
|
|
|
Jul 12, 2014 - 06:00am PT
|
Large Sack, Slamming Gill for one of your first posts, classy.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!