retro bolting- colorado

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Bob D'A

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Jul 24, 2013 - 02:28pm PT
Eric...you are a f*#king wanker...I could less about guide book sales. You have no f*#king idea what you are talking about.


Calling me bolting bob...funny. Anytime your lame ass want to go anywhere at any crag on any route to compare skills...let do it.
Bob D'A

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Jul 24, 2013 - 02:32pm PT
Eric wrote: Was everything west of Castle Rock bolted before '92?

Do you understand the difference between bolting new routes and retro-bolting??
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
Jul 24, 2013 - 02:32pm PT
I can feel the Philly brotherly love.
Why you so mad?
Yes I understand the difference of someone claiming a FA over a toprope that was done before. STATUS!

Let me dig up some personal photos and the Richard Rossiter guide and compare it to your guide.

I'm sure we can compare notes between the lists on Mountain Project of FA's and Richard's guide.



Bob D'A

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Jul 24, 2013 - 02:34pm PT
A little history...been climbing in Boulder canyon since 1974...done 100's of new routes and most of the routes up to 13a/b, I also know a fair amount about the history and the bolting wars.

So let's go at it Eric.


Eric...I'm not mad...this sh#t happens all the time by people who don't know what the f*#k they are talking about.

Eric wrote: Yes I understand the difference of someone claiming a FA over a toprope that was done before. STATUS!


Bullsh#t.
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
Jul 24, 2013 - 02:37pm PT
So tell us about the bolting wars old man and how it is different from what I posted?
Enlighten us.


Bob D'A

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Jul 24, 2013 - 02:37pm PT
Eric..cut the name calling. Is that all you really got?


You were not there, you were not one of the players and you got most of your information from the mags, MP or hearsay.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Jul 24, 2013 - 02:39pm PT
"So many bolts get pulled on supertopo."

Everybody talk a good game until it is actually time to do something.

Sounds about right. Too many strong climbers in CO, 12C??? If anyone needs retrobolts pulled on a 5.10 let me know, I might be able to get up it....
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
Jul 24, 2013 - 02:41pm PT
No I'm intrested in your take on the story Bob, now take a deep breath and tell us more how wrong I am. Please tell me how Tonnere Tower was climbed before it was cut down and bolts were added.

I've only been climbing here since '92 with partners that have been climbing there since '62. My last climb there was B3.
Bob D'A

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Jul 24, 2013 - 02:43pm PT
Eric...you are a poser who has not idea what they are talking about.I don't need to give you the story. You posted something that was bullsh#t, I callled you on it. Post the 100's of retro-bolted routes in Boulder canyon...I give you a day to post up.
blahblah

Gym climber
Boulder
Jul 24, 2013 - 02:44pm PT
Let me put in a good word for Bob's routes (not so much the person, who I don't know except he comes across as a little violent)--as someone who's done craploads of bolted routes (and non-bolted) in BoCan and elsewhere in Colo, he's got a fine eye for good lines and puts up quality routes.
Not really sure why anyone is butt hurt that people have put up new bolted lines in BoCan over the past 20 years or so, guess they don't have anything serious to complain bout. Talk about first world problems . . .

(There are rare cases where someone put a "new" line in that an old fart later claims he did in the 70s or whatever, oftentimes the old fart seems to be mistaken, and no one else really gives a damn. If you want to pretend that someone bolting a line that may have been done decades ago, but probably wasn't, and is never climbed now, is the same as retrebolting B-Y, have fun.)
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
Jul 24, 2013 - 02:44pm PT
Well go count all the routes at the Sport Park in your guide and let's go from there.

Why do you feel so threatened?
Bob D'A

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Jul 24, 2013 - 02:46pm PT
Thank you Blah..a voice of reason and experience.

I come across as a little agressive as I refuse to take or believe sh#t went I know they are wrong. Eric is wrong.
Bob D'A

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Jul 24, 2013 - 02:48pm PT
Eric wrote: Well go count all the routes at the Sport Park in your guide and let's go from there.


Bullshit Eric....who did you toprope all those routes with...you are digging yourself a deeper hole...stop now, you might save a little face.


Eric wrote: Why do you feel so threatened?


I called bullshit on what you wrote...you are wrong and you know. This is a witch hunt.

You insulted Chris and his job...do you actually know him?


goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
Jul 24, 2013 - 02:50pm PT
No Bob, there are a lot of routes that have been cut down by bolts.

Sorry you feel differently but just for shits and giggles how many bolts have been added to Castle Rock since the FA's?

I'll do a count when I get off from work but since you're the expert you should know off the top of your head.

Bob D'A

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Jul 24, 2013 - 02:52pm PT
Blah wrote: There are rare cases where someone put a "new" line in that an old fart later claims he did in the 70s or whatever, oftentimes the old fart seems to be mistaken, and no one else really gives a damn. If you want to pretend that someone bolting a line that may have been done decades ago, but probably wasn't, and is never climbed now, is the same as retrebolting B-Y, have fun.)
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze

Classic...I was accuse of retro-bolting a route in Boulder Canyon and got hammer on MP...I ask the person or people who were doing the hammering to prove that the route was done before. No takers...just hot air...kind of like Eric.


Kurt...you should call Chris and get the full story then base an opinion upon that.


Funny in this day of being PC that by calling someone on their bullshit you are called violent or agressive.
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
Jul 24, 2013 - 02:59pm PT
Dude, you're foaming at the mouth and not even quoting me but Blahblah.

Seriously settle down before your heart assplodes.
The majority of the Sport Park was top ropes set up between the '70's and early '90's. I climbed them with Mark Kelly, Oxana Medved, and Anita Allen.

Tell us your version of the Sport Park?
Tell us your version of Tonnere Tower and what it was like before '92?

In addition Tarbuster and I climbed a bunch of stuff just here and there in that canyon that Roy spotted along with Stich over the years that wasn't worth reporting to you or MP because we could care less about reporting it to the masses, wild thought I know but we did it for fun, not spray or adulation.

I'm not here to judge but remember when we retrobolted those top ropes in the South Platte on rappel just because we wanted to climb right now. Remember that toprope I pointed out to you that became a fat bolt climb the next month.

Tell us your version of climbs lead in the South Platte?
Tell us your version of the Sport Park?
Tell us your version of Tonnere Tower and what it was like before '92?


survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Jul 24, 2013 - 03:07pm PT
I wouldn't call a guy of Bob's caliber names, but I'm surprised that he doesn't seem to think talking to the FA guy matters.

Bob, is there a bolting project you wouldn't defend?

I can't think of any in reading your stuff for years.
Bob D'A

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Jul 24, 2013 - 03:08pm PT
Eric..I think you are full of sh#t. You don't climb 5.12 or even 5.11, most of the new routes at the Sport Park are that grade and above...they were cleaned heavily, some were chipped and glued which I do NOT agree with or do.

I never like the Sport Park and did most of the routes as first hand info for the guide. The Sport Park is a dead horse that has been beaten a thousand times over. Let it go.


Most of routes at Tonnere Tower were clean heavily with no chipping or glueing. It is the nature of a lot of new routes in the canyon that goes back to the early 80's.

If you do drive by every day you will see many climbers there enjoying the routes and also see that most of the "green" is back along the base of the routes.
nature

climber
Boulder, CO
Jul 24, 2013 - 03:15pm PT
On the other hand if the EDGE gets retro-bolted there will be hell to pay.

Uh oh.... I guess I shouldn't disclose what I've been up to ;-)
Bob D'A

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Jul 24, 2013 - 03:15pm PT
Survival wrote: Bob, is there a bolting project you wouldn't defend?

I can't think of any in reading your stuff for years.

Also I would always ask permission to retro-bolt a route...too many of mine have been but I still seem to live through it. :-)




I started climbing 71 and still climb trad and sport. I don't believe in retro-bolting WITHOUT the FA or community approval, but that is just my opinion.


I don't believe in witch hunts on the internet as it has happened to me by many people like Eric who don't have the full story or who just wants to start sh#t.

I take a lot darts in the back maybe because I do a lot, I just don't like it when they come from those who don't know what they are talking about.

Maybe Eric and Kurt should form an opinion after getting the full story from Chris.

Funny to see Eric name call and be a wise ass on the internet...real tough guy.
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