retro bolting- colorado

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 550 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
FrankZappa

Trad climber
Hankster's crew
Jul 24, 2013 - 01:03pm PT
A little surprised that I don't read much about people chopping bolts here...

Just doesn't happen 'round here. Climbers just shrug their shoulders and say that the route should be chopped, but nobody does it. Climbers say silly things like "if you don't like the bolts don't clip them" or "my personal protest is to not clip the bolt". Similarly, "my personal protest to chipped holds is to not touch that hold." Oh so brave....

Really what this boils down to is did the FA/FFA give permission to retro-bolt? Anyone?
Snowmassguy

Trad climber
Calirado
Jul 24, 2013 - 01:04pm PT
Who gives a sh#t? Climbing should really be for you - should be about cheering for others you think do proud work, and otherwise minding your own business. They aren't chipping new holds or tearing down the rock, so does it really affect you? It really boils down to measuring peckers, which if you're secure in yourself, is a waste of time for all involved.

Spot on. Who really cares. This is an obscure climb. The dude that put up the route should really be the only one with a say in the matter.

Not a fan of the behavior but really why freak out about it you were not the one that first put the route up.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jul 24, 2013 - 01:07pm PT
Because every dang route in the world would end up just like this IF the current trend is left to its own will.
neversummer

climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
Jul 24, 2013 - 01:07pm PT
sounds like the retro-bolter has been prepping for this by doing the new workout craze in Colo....
Burch3y

Mountain climber
San Diego
Jul 24, 2013 - 01:09pm PT
Because every dang route in the world would end up just like this IF the current trend is left to its own will.

Yeah, but how can you stop them from doing it?

Write your congressman a letter?

It's not against the law, and short of stalking routes and punching out anyone you see with a drill, or chopping them after, I don't see many other options.

Well, I take that back, you could complain from behind a keyboard.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Jul 24, 2013 - 01:14pm PT
Not a fan of the behavior but really why freak out about it you were not the one that first put the route up.

I don't see anyone freaking out. But if we don't speak a little loudly, we will certainly see more of it.

Big fat bolts going up some Tuolumne routes would be nice. It would compensate for my lack-a-sack since my climbing moves are still pretty good.


locker

Social climber
Some Rehab in Bolivia
Jul 24, 2013 - 01:16pm PT


"Big fat bolts going up some Tuolumne routes would be nice. It would compensate for my lack-a-sack since my climbing moves are still pretty good."...


^^^

+1



LOL!!!...

goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
Jul 24, 2013 - 01:49pm PT
Retrobolting in Boulder Canyon has been a fairly common theme the last 20 years after the bolt ban that started in the Flatirons and the beginning of the bolt review board that is regulating Eldorado Canyon. Only recently has the Flatirons gotten its own bolt review board to dictate which crags can see new development.

Locals that knew better just shrugged their shoulders and let the sportos take over that chossy Canyon since there are 1,000's of other trad routes in town which will never be bolted and are more fun to climb.

Unfortunately this lackadaisical attitude resulted in 100's of routes in BC getting retrobolted. The Sport Park was all top ropes and bold leads until it was rediscovered, Tonnere Tower was completely covered in lichen, trees, and loose blocks until some blowhard that wanted to up his Mountain Project points destroyed that cool green ecosystem just so they can preen and strut in front of the tourists at Boulder Falls.

Castle Rock and the Dome are the last few hold outs from the retro bolting.

It's only Boulder Canyon, where noobs have easy access to the rock and then back to town where they can spray on MP while sipping chai. Nothing new to see here and far from a growing trend at the other crags about town.
apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Jul 24, 2013 - 01:56pm PT
Why all the talk? Pull & fill the bastards, and be done with it.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Jul 24, 2013 - 02:07pm PT
With all the virgin rock out there, why sully someone else's climb?
blahblah

Gym climber
Boulder
Jul 24, 2013 - 02:08pm PT
Yep, the guys who put up Archangel 2.0 are real Boulder blowhards/sprayers (including climbing harder and bolder than 99.9% of ST posters, but that's Boulder for ya!). I guess preening around Boulder Canyon isn't enough for them, they need to their preening in Upper Dream Canyon, and we all know what's going on there.
Bob D'A

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Jul 24, 2013 - 02:13pm PT
Goat wrote: Unfortunately this lackadaisical attitude resulted in 100's of routes in BC getting retrobolted. The Sport Park was all top ropes and bold leads until it was rediscovered, Tonnere Tower was completely covered in lichen, trees, and loose blocks until some blowhard that wanted to up his Mountain Project points destroyed that cool green ecosystem just so they can preen and strut in front of the tourists at Boulder Falls.


You have no idea what you are talking about, as do most of the others on this thread.

Call Chris and talk to him in person. Sack-up.
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Jul 24, 2013 - 02:13pm PT
Why all the talk? Pull & fill the bastards, and be done with it.

In this case I totally agree. Chris Weidner had no right to do anything at all to this route. Yank the hardware and give it back him. Him and his pals can wear there "murder kitty" T shirts on there own hack jobs.

Get a clue poser.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Jul 24, 2013 - 02:14pm PT
Maybe Chris should have sacked up and talked to Thom?
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
Jul 24, 2013 - 02:15pm PT
Chris Weidner writes about climbing for the local newspaper.
Gayer than a bouquet of pensis.

NTTIAWWT.
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
Jul 24, 2013 - 02:16pm PT
Yes I do Bob, I was there.
Are you denying the sportpark wasn't retobolted or the other dozen crags?
Are you saying Tonnere Tower was a choss pile until the route setters moved in, I drove by that everyday watching the progess.

Stop thinking about your guidebook sales and tell us what you think happened.
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Social climber
SLO, Ca
Jul 24, 2013 - 02:17pm PT
So many bolts get pulled on supertopo.
Bob D'A

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Jul 24, 2013 - 02:19pm PT
Eric...you were not there and there wasn't 100's of climbing retro-bolted in the canyon. F*#king name them or STFU.

You spew a lot about sh#t you have no idea of.

How long have you lived in Boulder? 15 years maybe...or more. how many new routes have you done in the Canyon? 0...maybe.
Bob D'A

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Jul 24, 2013 - 02:20pm PT
"So many bolts get pulled on supertopo."

Everybody talk a good game until it is actually time to do something.
locker

Social climber
Some Rehab in Bolivia
Jul 24, 2013 - 02:21pm PT


Between Goatboy and Bob...

this is shaping up to be a GUD one...

Can BOTH be right???...

Stay tuned!!!...


LOL!!!...
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