retro bolting- colorado

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Prod

Trad climber
Aug 13, 2013 - 03:20pm PT
For what it's worth Bob, I like the guides that you put out. Climbing and Mt Biking. But I also like Goatboy so my opinion might be scued....

Cheers,

Prod.
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
Aug 13, 2013 - 03:21pm PT
Everybody changes, sorry for the whole sport actually, I'm just trying to let the masses know some guidebook authors are talking out their ass while blowing off first ascents.

Do you want me to post up your toprope in Vedauwoo screaming like a little boy Will or Prod?

We all have our down times but those that spray about their accomplishments while diminishing other seems half ass.

Again not a big deal, just pointing out idiosyncrasies that climbers take this sport so seriously to denigrate others accomplishments compared to other sports. W

Will, I'l try to upgrade my 8anu card for you, stay tuned,

Remind us again why we should care?
Prod

Trad climber
Aug 13, 2013 - 03:37pm PT
Do you want me to post up your toprope in Vedauwoo screaming like a little boy Will or Prod?

Well, we've never been to Vedauwoo together Goat, so stop throwing rocks in my direction.

Prod.
chill

climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
Aug 13, 2013 - 03:37pm PT
We all have our down times but those that spray about their accomplishments while diminishing other seems half ass.

You're a funny guy Mr. Goat.
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
Aug 13, 2013 - 03:38pm PT
Oh right that was Indian creek Prod, sorry.
we all scream sometimes, except Will, he's the only hardman.

I'm trying to keep it light chill but these Greenies never let up.
Again this is about other folks climbs more than whatever I did, I'm a lightweight, except for skiing and bike riding.
Prod

Trad climber
Aug 13, 2013 - 03:39pm PT
You are now correct.

Prod.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
Aug 13, 2013 - 03:41pm PT
I feel less dirty after binging on porn. Take it somewhere else, kids.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Aug 13, 2013 - 03:58pm PT
d#@&%e nozzle

I've been hearing this one a lot around here so I thought I'd look it up.


It's really not much of an insult IMO.


Oh well beats talking about Christianity I guess....
Bob D'A

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Aug 13, 2013 - 04:16pm PT
Eric wrote: Bob blew off the neptune book and cut and paste from MP, I called him out and all of a sudden I'm a bad guy. Lighten up people and try to grade up your reading comprehension!





I didn't blow off the book...it was full of insults and personal assaults and it bored me to tears.

I also didn't put FA's in for reason...people like you coming out of the woodwork claiming FA's top rope ascents.

You are the bad guy...holding others to something you can't even come close to doing.

You insulted Chris, then me, then my book. You got major issues when it comes to climbing, your ability and your place in it.

You look like a complete fool.


Thanks Prod...I do the best I can. :-)
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
Aug 13, 2013 - 04:29pm PT
Well why didn't you say that in the first place Bob, the Neptune book was funny and very informative and full of great accents despite the helter skelter way it was throw together.

Seriously I like you and what you have done for climbing but you gotta admit a lot of the history in Boulder Canyon is heady and needs to be taken with a grain of salt.

We are only here to try to inform each other and have fun but when a segment of the tribe is cut out and replaced with online beta you have to accept some repercussions from the left hand not knowing what the right hand is doing.

cheers and beers,
Eric
Bob D'A

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Aug 13, 2013 - 06:42pm PT
Eric wrote: This isn't about eldo it's about bolted canyon.
And I did not lead sh#t but a few climbs.


No...it is about your lies throughout this thread.
ChrisWeidner

climber
Boulder, CO
Aug 19, 2014 - 03:51pm PT
Last August (2013) Thom Byrne and I had a couple beers and talked about the bolts I placed on Archangel. In person, we decided together that I should remove one of the first two bolts above the first anchor at the ledge about 25 feet up. I placed those bolts relatively close together to prevent a ledge fall, but there are opportunities for thin gear placements in the area of the first bolt.

Earlier I promised to remove 5 of the 8 bolts I placed because that's what Thom originally wanted me to do. But after our friendly conversation we agreed that I would remove just one of them. Thom was very kind to settle on this arrangement and I thank him for allowing Archangel to remain intact as a sport route.

Yesterday, I finally made good on my promise and I removed the first bolt above the ledge. Take care getting to it. *You may want to bring an extra small cam and/or RPs to protect the moves leading up to the new first bolt.
goatboy smellz

climber
लघिमा
Aug 19, 2014 - 03:52pm PT
What lies Bob?
It's well known you like to bolt.
Everyone needs to learn to embrace their failures, own it, laugh at it, it's the only way to get better.

You can learn a lot from Chris.
HighDesertDJ

Trad climber
Aug 19, 2014 - 05:41pm PT
I missed this whole thread the first time around and caught up with the (much more abbreviated and to the point) discussion on MP and I have to say I'm impressed with how Chris stepped up, took responsibility, clarified his position and did what he could to make things right for everyone after his initial defensiveness. Good form, sir.

I forgot to ask, did Byrne say that he redpointed up to his original anchors? It would be nice to hear his side of things a little bit.
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
Aug 19, 2014 - 07:31pm PT
Wow. I just read the entire thread.

It was kind of interesting for the first 300 posts, then it turned into a personal sh#t slinging festival by a couple of guys who had nothing to do with the route in question.

I have to admit that it was a 5 star sh#t slinging festival, so there was a little chuckling going on.

I will sit on my hands now.
Rankin

Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
Aug 19, 2014 - 08:28pm PT
Last August (2013) Thom Byrne and I had a couple beers and talked about the bolts I placed on Archangel. In person, we decided together that I should remove one of the first two bolts above the first anchor at the ledge about 25 feet up. I placed those bolts relatively close together to prevent a ledge fall, but there are opportunities for thin gear placements in the area of the first bolt.

Earlier I promised to remove 5 of the 8 bolts I placed because that's what Thom originally wanted me to do. But after our friendly conversation we agreed that I would remove just one of them. Thom was very kind to settle on this arrangement and I thank him for allowing Archangel to remain intact as a sport route.

Yesterday, I finally made good on my promise and I removed the first bolt above the ledge. Take care getting to it. *You may want to bring an extra small cam and/or RPs to protect the moves leading up to the new first bolt.

Always a tragedy when an established route is bolted into submission. Even if the FA party is ok with it, I think it's way lame. Take up golf or bowling, and stay away from my crags.
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