retro bolting- colorado

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Messages 61 - 80 of total 534 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jul 24, 2013 - 03:22pm PT
As for the comment up thread that nothing illegal was done,, i have news for you. THERE IS a section under TITLE 36 of the code of FEd regulations under the 261.~~ series that read "damaging ANY NATURAL FEATURE".. Rock IS a "natural feature". Living on borrowed time, we better be more careful..
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Jul 24, 2013 - 03:22pm PT
Maybe Eric and Kurt should form an opinion after getting the full story from Chris.

You mean the full story from Thom AND Chris?

I agree Bob, but it sounds like Chris never even got the the full story dosen't it ?
JakeW

Big Wall climber
CA
Jul 24, 2013 - 03:23pm PT
Same ol lame debate. Different philosophies, practically different sports.

A lot more people climb for fun(positive emotions) nowadays than to almost die(negative emotions) and get a big rush out of it(kind of positive in contrast to just experienced negativity)...and if that's what they want most just go soloing.

Claiming "standard setting" is hilarious when its just the poor engineering of some heinous route that no one wants to climb and can't even see a solid onsight attempt cuz its so weird, dirty, and originally aided/hangdogged then headpointed...or toproped if it was the yoyo days.

It seems so funny to seek out something that most/all other people don't want to do, and then prop yourself up on a pedestal for it. Seems really easy to find things to do that no one else wants to do...why do people think this is cool? "Hey I did this new route that will scare you and you probably won't have fun. Its rad and so am I. Oh, by the way its really dirty and poorly engineered cuz I just aided up it, wired it, and sent it without really caring if it was ever onsightable or worth repeating."

I've talked to so many old/bold climbers that now wish they'd put up more GOOD routes and less CRAZY and UNREPEATED routes. They realize you actually get more admiration, respect, and thanks when that's what you do...which was what the ego was originally seeking by getting all bold and spraying about it.

But I dig a nice traumatizing runout once in a while. They're good for satisfying those repressed warrior needs in our overly secure world here. However, I've learned they happen enough on accident without intentionally seeking them out, much less creating them. I did create a few in the past, almost cried in the moment then acted all tough later.

I've met Chris before. I don't really know him at all but he seems to be quite solid, and probably isn't afraid of occasional run outs. He's climbed with this guy named Honnold quite a bit.
Bob D'A

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Jul 24, 2013 - 03:23pm PT
Kp wrote: You mean the full story from Thom AND Chris?

I agree Bob, but it sounds like Chris never even got the the full story dosen't it ?


I agree...from both. I don't think it was ever clear if the route was completed ground up on lead.
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
Jul 24, 2013 - 03:25pm PT
Climbed 5.12 last month Bob, and if I fold my dick in half its only 6 inches.

While we are at it, how many 14er's have you skied?
How many miles can you swim in open water?
I'm up to four.

Seriously I gotta get back to work, toodles old man.
Bob D'A

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Jul 24, 2013 - 03:26pm PT
Eric wrote: While we are at it, how many 14er's have you skied?
How many miles can you swim in open water?
I'm up to four.

We are not talking about those activities here...are we?

Nice try macho man.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jul 24, 2013 - 03:27pm PT
12""??? MUST be hell on the GFs!!!! Nickname of TRI-POD?
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
Jul 24, 2013 - 03:28pm PT
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze

Jul 24, 2013 - 11:59am PT
Dude, you're foaming at the mouth and not even quoting me but Blahblah.

Seriously settle down before your heart assplodes.
The majority of the Sport Park was top ropes set up between the '70's and early '90's. I climbed them with Mark Kelly, Oxana Medved, and Anita Allen.

Tell us your version of the Sport Park?
Tell us your version of Tonnere Tower and what it was like before '92?

In addition Tarbuster and I climbed a bunch of stuff just here and there in that canyon that Roy spotted along with Stich over the years that wasn't worth reporting to you or MP because we could care less about reporting it to the masses, wild thought I know but we did it for fun, not spray or adulation.

I'm not here to judge but remember when we retrobolted those top ropes in the South Platte on rappel just because we wanted to climb right now. Remember that toprope I pointed out to you that became a fat bolt climb the next month.

Tell us your version of climbs lead in the South Platte?
Tell us your version of the Sport Park?
Tell us your version of Tonnere Tower and what it was like before '92?
Bob D'A

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Jul 24, 2013 - 03:28pm PT
Great post Jake.

goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
Jul 24, 2013 - 03:30pm PT
You're ignoring my questions Bolting Bob.

Edit, Ron I'm very gentle and caring in real life.
Bob D'A

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Jul 24, 2013 - 03:30pm PT
Go back to work Eric...do something productive.

Eric...what is with the name calling? I don't have to answer any of your questions...I called bullshit on your post...and it was.


What I have done in climbing in Colorado and many other places in pretty common knowledge. Never sneaky...I always put it out there.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jul 24, 2013 - 03:32pm PT
i just wish "SLEDS" were brought up more in this hard man regime.. "Sleds" just aint gettin no respect i tellzya..
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Jul 24, 2013 - 03:33pm PT
The "FA party owns the route" is a bygone artifact from a different age, particularly when it comes to public land.

Retrobolting is not exactly the same thing / topic.

The FA's permission is not necessary. Get that through your heads. The FA party DOES NOT OWN THE ROUTE. They never did.

Yall decided for yourselves to follow this or that ethic / rule. The only appeal was and is an appeal to your conscience. "The FA party owns the route" does not appeal to younger climbers conscience.

You fundamentalists best find a new appeal, the old one is failing / failed.

Got any other arguments to impose your wills on future climbers?

DMT
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Jul 24, 2013 - 03:35pm PT
Edit, Ron I'm very gentle and caring in real life.

...in real life sometimes . A community of people that (for the most part) are not anonymous and share interests... that's kind of like real life.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Jul 24, 2013 - 03:38pm PT
Also I would always ask permission to retro-bolt a route...too many of mine have been but I still seem to live through it. :-)

That's all I wanted to see. Thanks Bob.

Chris should have made the effort.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jul 24, 2013 - 03:39pm PT
Sooo i can now go and install 19 bolts per pitch on the BY,, it will make it the MOST popular route there i tellzya!


And then the RR on Fairview would be MUCH handier if you only had to bring some draws.. Im likin this!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
blahblah

Gym climber
Boulder
Jul 24, 2013 - 03:50pm PT
Chris should have made the effort.
I believe you are still making assumptions, yes? Do you have any idea what efforts he did or didn't make, and have you seen the route in question?

My perceptions on this episode are colored by a ST thread about bolts being added to routes at Suicide. Unless you had seen the routes and the added bolts at issue (I did), you really had nothing to say other than general yap-flapping, at least as applied to those routes.
General comments about retro-bolting may or may not be interesting, but that's not the same thing as commentary on a specific route.
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Jul 24, 2013 - 03:56pm PT
"The FA party owns the route" does not appeal to younger climbers conscience.
It was a dirty POS relic nobody cared about until today. CW and MS are hardly "younger climbers".
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Jul 24, 2013 - 03:59pm PT
I believe you are still making assumptions, yes?


I suppose. As are you?

Seems reasonably clear from Chris's MP post.

Reportedly freed by Thom Byrne in 1988, Archangel remained largely ignored until 2013. If Byrne freed it, his ascent was extremely bold.
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
Jul 24, 2013 - 04:22pm PT
Bob, you are the one as guidebook author ignoring my questions.
Show us where those bolted route are in the old guide and maybe you will gain some credence.
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