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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2013 - 01:31pm PT
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Thanks Warbler. But was it a good route? Do Not Bother?
I almost can't imagine that we cranked some 5.11 first try. But that really doesn't matter, it's the wall and the big picture experience that counts.
It's kinda fun that MEchrist's panties are in a bunch cuz he couldn't do it, and he wants it to seem like he's too good for it...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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I heard a couple died on it because someone took a fall, and their anchor blew with the rest of the gear. They weren't noobs and knew their systems according to what I heard.
it was written up here, and in the ANAM, a tragic accident on a pitch high up that wasn't "hard" but no one will know what exactly happened and why the team acted as they did.
While this sort of tragedy, when it happens on a particular route, conveys a "bad juju" on that route, we should think about this possibility on every route we do. The belay anchors failed and were recovered, still attached to the rope, with the bodies at the bottom of the climb.
This tragic result could happen anywhere at anytime, we all are picking from the deck when we are out there, best to stack the deck in our favor whenever we can. Make sure your anchor is truly bomber, that it is truly redundant, and that it is truly protected by the leader. A slip can happen at anytime on any ground and challenge the integrity of our safety system to the max, you don't want it to fail.
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Survival,
I have noticed a few climbs with rating changes like that. DNB is one Waverly Wafer also got bumped up to 5.11 in a modern guide. Basically its a joke. What I ascribe it to is that many modern climbers aren't well rounded--especially gym taught climbers. If you never learned how to climb wide cracks you get to the flare on the Wafer and struggle. Sh#t it must be 5.11! No, you just need to learn how to climb--everything. Manteling is another lost art. Does that make the DNB 5.11? No. The 5.10 rating on the crux is appropriate. As far as the route is concerned I have done it twice and enjoyed it both times. The chimneys up high are a bit of a grunt as Werner mentioned but the view across the sweeping N. Face as you reach the notch in the afternoon light is one to remember. The first time I did it with Kev and we left at noon and were back at the deli at 7pm. We simul climbed the upper chimneys. Comparing it to the Nutcracker is a joke. Far more serious. Is it Astroman? No. What it is is a classic old school route that should be on everyones tick list who enjoys a good outing on a historic route. A five minute approach for 2,000 ft of free climbing? Its worth doing it for that reason alone.
Chappy
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2013 - 01:35pm PT
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Thanks Coz. When was this variation created?
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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I almost can't imagine that we cranked some 5.11 first try.
It's kinda fun that MEchrist's panties are in a bunch cuz he couldn't do it, and he wants it to seem like he's too good for it...
Hahaha... you see the irony in that right... I have no problem imagining doing a 5.11 first try. I think Space Walk (11c/d) was the last 5.11 I didn't do first try, fell off the last crimp next to the anchors. I almost fell on a couple 11's at Dike Wall a couple years ago, but managed the on sight. Did Freeway (but did whine a bit!), whatever that route with the split pillar is, Northern Exposure, and plenty of other 11's first try in Squeemish. I thought getting out of the "rest alcove" on Waverly was pretty strenuous... 10+ for sure. To be honest though, I haven't been too psyched on routes for years... but this year should be different... plenty of free time.
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Kev,
That was a great day of climbing. I still remember emerging from those final chimneys and looking out across the North Face from the Thirty Spire notch with the then unclimbed Mother Earth buttress glistening in the afternoon sun. Wow. Didn't we solo those first couple of easy pitches? Can't remember...
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2013 - 01:53pm PT
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Hahaha... you see the irony in that right... I have no problem imagining doing a 5.11 first try.
That's awesome. Then why was it you didn't hike the DNB? Oh yeah, it was the backpack's fault.
So we've got a few notable people here saying it's well worth the price of admission, and then there's......
EDIT: Chappy, you soloed what?!!
Holy cow, it never ceases to amaze me, the bigness of the human spirit.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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"and then there's.."
Well, and then there's Werner, who seems to agree with Do Not Bother. Everybody I know who's done it (and that number runs over a dozen), also said Don't Bother, it was ok but not great. Almost all of them also said to just do the first 5 (or 7?) and rap.
Anyway, I'll go up there. You game? How about the 28th?
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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It was my partner's idea... he was all psyched on this "DNB" thing... I just went along for the ride. After the first pitch he said something along the lines of 'I don't know how much more of that I can take. You might have to lead the rest of the pitches.' After the mantle pitch his psyche dropped even lower... but not mine, I was never psyched about the route AT ALL, EVER... in fact, I had never even heard about it until the day before.
Yep, we bailed and I have never considered going back because I wasn't that impressed. As I recall, it was a perfect Saturday morning... at least 3 parties at E Butt (which I would do again)... and the usual crowd at Central Pillar... not a single person cued up for the classic DNB.
Again, just opinions. Glad you had a blast on it... the FA is definitely a great accomplishment... I suggest you focus on that part. Because honestly you have to realize there are better routes to be had nearby and choosing not to do a mediocre (at best) climb doesn't mean you can't.
Congrats on the upgrade. That will look great on your resume.
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Onewhowalksonrocks
Mountain climber
In the middle of the ocean
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BITD climbing the DNB in a day was a measuring stick of sorts. With a rating of V 5.10b, the class was more of a concern then the grade.
Seeing the damage done to over crowded routes changing the grade to a harder one might just be the ticket to reduce the traffic.
From what I heard the Royal Arches is now 5.12a and Snake dick is 5.13-.
I am going back to the boobs topic.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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IMHO: well worth doing, but I never made it back for a second lap, so that tells you something I guess.
7 hours is damned impressive.
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Did the DNB in 81 with a 4 hour approx time on the route itself. Went back in 95 not imagining it could take too long. We topped out and barely made it off the catwalk before the dark descended on us in the talus below. It's a good route, but I agree there is endless moderate chimneying at the top - bring knee pads
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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me-Christ. fitting name. lol
anyway, we seem to have established that DNB is harder than Nutcracker and easier than Astroman. Can we refine that a bit? Where is it compared to NEB of Higher, or the East But of El Cap? (I made it up those two, but only by the skin of my teeth. lol) DNB sounds cool, and I like ending the day with 5.7 chimneys. Better than flaming out on steep face moves after 17 pitches. :)
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
SLO, Ca
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Difficulties aside, the DNB is more serious than something like the the East B of El Cap.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2013 - 02:34pm PT
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choosing not to do a mediocre (at best) climb doesn't mean you can't.
There you go again.
But whatever, you'll never know.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Haha, survival can't even climb 5.11 in Maple Canyon or v4 in Joe's Valley.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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I haven't climbed for almost a year and I have too much bulk in my middle and not enough on my calves and forearms!!!
I resemble that remark, except I was able to get outside a couple of weeks ago, and have been working out in the gym a few months now. I wish I were in better shape so I could take up El Cap on his offer for the 28th. If nothing else, he always strikes me as someone worth meeting.
It's funny to read some of these comments. I've known a great many people who considered the first two pitches sandbags at 5.7. I always thought those were reasonably accurate. It was the "5.9 mantles" that threw me for a loop.
John
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2013 - 03:11pm PT
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Haha, survival can't even climb 5.11 in Maple Canyon or v4 in Joe's Valley.
HAha, who gives a damn?
Haha, MEchrist can't even climb 5.11 in Mawburst Gorge or V4 in Miedo Canon.
The difference is that I'm talking about a route I've actually done, and you're talking about a route you bailed off of.
On top of that you said you were going gardening, and here you are.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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The difference is that I'm talking about a route I've actually done, and you're talking about a route you bailed off of.
That must hurt! Nice come back.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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I "climbed" it once when I'd never climbed chimneys before. It was where I went to learn them. It was a long and brutal day, and I can't believe I ever got to the catwalk (barely!) before dark with any amount of help. Aside from being a big butt-kicker, it was one of the first big climbs that I did w/ J, so it hold a special place for me.
I revisited the first pitches again on Ho Chi Mihn, following them all, as I always would. I don't have the confidence to not die on them otherwise. They are always hard for me, relative to other pitches at the grade(s) even. If the mantle move is 10b then I reckon I'm worse at that technique than just about any other because it sure feels harder to me. I have a hard time w/ the thin fingery overlap/crack traverse left too.
We went back to the DNB couple/few years ago. I still followed the faces, but took my share of the chimneys to see if time and experience changed my memory of them. It did, but they still felt burly and old school in their way. We got across the catwalk before dark this time, but not back to the car. It's still a big route.
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