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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2013 - 12:18pm PT
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grumpy old men who get their panties all wadded up because someone makes a flippant comment about a chunk of rock.
It's just BS is the problem, and it gives you an excuse. Sweet.
Central Pillar? Yes, I like it too. In fact it's so good that you can spend much of the season in a queue on it. Did you do the whole thing?
I think Ed made an excellent point about the grading. Similar to what Donini often says.
The rating is only a starting point, to help me gauge whether I have any business at all near the thing. After that it's all about the feel and the adventure aesthetic for me. DNB hit on all cylinders for me.
It's an incredible line up an amazing wall. How much better does it get?
Does this suck as a line?
Yeah, pretty much junk!
Lookit that CHOSS!!
Edit: In my meager experience, it's hard to climb anything over 2,000 feet tall without a few, "WAAA, I don't like this part!" moments. But the overall experience was out of this world. If you want uninterrupted perfection, you don't belong on big routes. I'm entitled to my opinion too. Suck it up Canadian pussy boy.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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IMHO it is the prettiest line in the Valley. It floats my boat, big time.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
SLO, Ca
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Got rained off of it about half way up. We would have finished but probably would have spent the night up on the route somewhere.
The route is burly and 7 hours is impressive.
First pitch alone is harder than 5.9, I almost threw up leading the freaking thing. Cruxy pitches are 5.10ish, but I don't think 5.11ish.
Who knows? Big route, lots of 5.9 climbing way above gear, real deal.
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WBraun
climber
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I did it with Kauk 30 years ago and never wanted to do again.
All those stoopid 5.7 chimneys at the end makes knee caps hurt.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2013 - 12:33pm PT
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Never thought I'd say this to Werner...
"WAAA, I don't like this part!"
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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I wasnt trying to sandbag anyone comparing it to nutcracker, I only meant that its closer to that than it is to astroman. DNB is not a sustained physical climb, it's mainly face climbing. I dont remember ever being more than 10' above gear but this was 20 years ago and memories fade. The hard part of DNB is doing 17 pitches before the sun goes down. Even with headlamps I think the descent would not be fun in the dark.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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since 5.11 is hard, it must be a hard climb and you respond that way, where is 5.10b seems in the realm of doable, and you do...
Very true. But I think it is good for people to be cautious about this climb since you have to do 5.9/10R parts and not blow them. I heard a couple died on it because someone took a fall, and their anchor blew with the rest of the gear. They weren't noobs and knew their systems according to what I heard.
Agree with Reily, this line is fantastic. One of the best in the Valley for sure. I think Nose is the most striking since it divides El Cap in Half. But this one is not too far behind it.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Central Pillar? Yes, I like it too. In fact it's so good that you can spend much of the season in a queue on it. Did you do the whole thing?
Nope. We didn't wait in any lines. We got there early, did the fun part, rapped, then did the NE Butt. Good long day with many pitches.
Hahaha... yeah, it gives me an "excuse." In reality what it does is give me an OPINION from someone I trust based on shared opinions about other great climbs.
Will I ever do DNB or all of Central Pillar... doubt it. If I'm going to spend time in the Sh#t Ditch, I have plenty of other things to do... Astroman, Rostrum, Moratorium, Snake Dike, the list of recommended routes by people who share my taste in routes goes on and on. Truth is, I don't like climbing in the Sh#t Ditch... dirty, noisy, crowded, and ultimately a huge pain in the ass. I'd much rather head up high where there is a HUGE list of quality lines I will do before even considering getting back on DNB.
I don't know why you insist on getting hung up on that comment though. I made mention of a comment from a friend and you insist on pursuing it. If you had no personal attachment to that chunk of rock, you would realize just how many great routes there are that make the list way before DNB. Why get so uptight? Why hash it out? Why not focus on the great time YOU had on it during YOUR experience and leave other people's opinions at that? I can only assume you are bored.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2013 - 12:53pm PT
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Thank you counselor. Now go do a TR on your Astroman trip if you don't wanna read about my DNB thoughts.
Edit: I made a comment to your friend's comment. You're the one who came back to it. So why accuse me of it?
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Grasshappa, it is you who don't want to read other's thoughts on DNB.
I don't do TR's.
edit: you called someone's opinion bullsh#t. THAT is bullsh#t.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2013 - 12:55pm PT
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We noticed.
Edit: Because there's no T's to R about.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Ok,
Who's in? Last week of May. I'll lead the crux pitches (or we can ro-sham-bo for it).
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Le bateau de Reilly?
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Just got back from 3 weeks in the Utah desert. Had a blast. That is all anyone ever needs to know unless they were there or ask.
Where/when was your last trip?
Now THAT is the biggest piece of bullshit yet. Go climb it and get back to me about the "Do Not Bother" thing. Christ, people and their elitist "I'm so cool" comments.
You can almost smell the panties as they wad up.
Have a good day. I'm going to play in the garden.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2013 - 01:05pm PT
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Excellent, don't let the door hit you in the ass on the way out.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Hey wes, why don't you ever treat us to some of your climbing exploits? Seems you might have a few tales to spin?
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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I find reading TR's boring. I find writing them even more so. The closest I ever got was some shitty video footage... of boldering obviously, because who in their right mind would take pics/video on a route? What a waste of a beautiful opportunity to be in the present. Oh wait, I did a Cathedral Peak thing, mostly for the gf's family.
I tried reading a few TRs. I picked some I thought I would really enjoy based on the trips and the authors. I even picked short ones with lots of pictures. They bored me to tears. I think the only ones I like were of your (or another mike's?) boy climbing some cracks. The dude was psyched and those were rad.
Besides, what is the point of reading something if you aren't going to share opinions? And what is the point of sharing opinions when it gives old folks panty rash?
But I'm always happy to listen to them in person and check out photos.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2013 - 01:17pm PT
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Damn you're a nice guy Mike! I try to be also, but I sometimes fail, in so many areas.....
I'd like to thank Ed for posting that video. I don't suppose Mechrist watched it.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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I played it and listened to it. Can't say I watched much of it. Sounded like some guy I don't know talking about some climbing he did. I can get that at any climbing shop anywhere in the nation. I certainly wouldn't dis the speaker, the story, or anyone involved... unless of course someone insists I listen to it or insinuates I'm less of a person for having not hear the story or not man enough to watch it. At which point, I have no problem expressing my opinion. My opinion: "some guys went climbing a long time ago and had a memorable experience. Awesome... whatever."
I wasn't going to comment on it, but you brought it up...
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Did he do that Beck-Salathe route?
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