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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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May 10, 2013 - 01:37am PT
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Yes,I'd like to hear the story also as I need some excitment to burn off my love handles.
Never had any rockfall around me in any of my trips to Yosemite so I think you guys are making it all up to keep us foreigners away.
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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May 10, 2013 - 10:16am PT
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Clint - that is a great photo / topo - thanks for posting !
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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May 10, 2013 - 10:52am PT
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Ok Russ, the flaming died down.
Now where's that story?
+1
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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May 10, 2013 - 11:49am PT
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Where is this taken from? I climbed the route because of this picture and never found such an exposed position nor a clear view of the north side, as in the photo. I was very disappointed about that.
The topo in the Reid guide shows a 5.8/5.9 route with a bolted 10b move - pretty much sums it up...
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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May 10, 2013 - 11:56am PT
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Kind of looks like the Nutcracker topo...
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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May 10, 2013 - 11:57am PT
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Harryhotdog said: "Never had any rockfall around me in any of my trips to Yosemite so I think you guys are making it all up to keep us foreigners away." Some of the more recent rockfall (last few years) on the middle is so huge that massive would be an understatement. I saw one that would have killed everyone in the area had it occurred on a sunny day. Ammon filmed one that was about that size or bigger from El Cap that might be on Utube. It's not made up. Underestimate or ignore it at your peril.
Clint, great photo stitched and drawn job there! Thanks!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 10, 2013 - 07:51pm PT
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Where is this taken from?
Sue is standing on the mantle hold, p3.
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ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
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May 10, 2013 - 10:11pm PT
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Ammon filmed one that was about that size or bigger from El Cap that might be on Utube. It's not made up.
Here's the Middle Cathedral rock fall we filmed while on WOS.
http://vimeo.com/28221780
Even more impressive is the one while we were on Bad Seed:
http://vimeo.com/24974122
The scary part about that last vid is that I was just down in that gully an hour before I jugged the fixed lines. Would have been quite epic to go out while doing my business... after all the near misses I've been through.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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May 13, 2013 - 02:03pm PT
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Sue is standing on the mantle hold, p3. It really looks like she's way out on the Turret, 1000' off the deck. I wanted that pitch. I have to admit the block below her looks a lot like other photos of the block below the crux. The photo is tilted quite a bit as well. Probably a telephoto/wide-angle lens thing pushing the background away...maybe a 24mm on a 35mm camera...
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 13, 2013 - 04:59pm PT
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JLP,
Maybe this will help - it's the best I can do with the DNB photos I have.
I feel confident I could recreate the geometry of Chris Falkenstein's photo of Sue McDevitt, if I wasn't belaying my partner and pushed myself further out from the wall.
I led the mantle pitch at least 10 times from 1985-2009 and the view down is fairly familiar at this point. :-)
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mynameismud
climber
backseat
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May 13, 2013 - 06:43pm PT
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Don Paul
Seems like the consensus is that Ho Chi Min Trail is the real route to do on Middle Cathedral. The choss chimney finish of DNB doesnt seem to have a lot of appeal. Clint Cummins put that up but he's too modest to say so.
I have done both a copule times with different partners and the Ho is the best
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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May 13, 2013 - 08:14pm PT
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Great route ! I've been it many time over the years. 10b sounds about right. I had a client in 09 follow the route in guide tennies, the 10b was a little hard for him to follow, but he pulled it off ! And I would agree with Coz that the Ho Chi Minh route is also very good !
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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May 13, 2013 - 08:39pm PT
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Maybe this will help - it's the best I can do with the DNB photos I have. Now I'm thinking some dodging and burning were done on that photo to remove the trees. Your partner looks like he's 2 ft off the ground, crawling out from under a bush. I wouldn't want that pitch...
Thanks,
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 13, 2013 - 09:03pm PT
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Now I'm thinking some dodging and burning were done on that photo to remove the trees.
The trees are there in Chris's photo - they are the dark area in the lower right corner. Kind of fuzzed together; the "magic" of black and white.
Your partner looks like he's 2 ft off the ground, crawling out from under a bush. I wouldn't want that pitch...
:-)
The lighting of my photo prevents the dirt/talus between the trees and the cliff from being lighter in tone than the trees. Otherwise the photos would look more similar. I have other photos where I can match up the bushes vs. dirt pattern and individual talus blocks to Chris's photo.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Jun 13, 2013 - 09:19pm PT
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According to the posted photo we were seriously off route, which explains my previous comment.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 13, 2013 - 09:22pm PT
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Told you it was bad ass....
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SuperTopo on the Web
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