I want to be a 5.9 trad leader


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Fremont, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 27, 2013 - 04:45pm PT
... so what are the easiest 5.9 trad leads out there?

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 27, 2013 - 04:50pm PT
The esiest ones are not really 5.9.....same goes for the hardest ones. Shoot for 5.10, if you can walk down the sidewalk and chew gum at the same time you can climb 5.10, IF you put in the mileage.

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Mar 27, 2013 - 04:59pm PT
What you are looking for is called 5.8.
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Mar 27, 2013 - 05:08pm PT
I know a few ... for a price.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Mar 27, 2013 - 05:11pm PT
Me too!!!
I used to be a .10 trad leader 35 yrs. ago but told people I was a .9,
now at my age/shape .6/.7 leader tops.
Ratings like age are just numbers right?

The Granite State.
Mar 27, 2013 - 05:19pm PT
My first gear lead was Half Hit, .9, at Grouse Slabs. It's short and easy enough to protect.

Go get it!
Dave Kos

Social climber
Mar 27, 2013 - 05:32pm PT
Just go to the Sierras and find some short easy crack that is not in any guidebook. You may have to hike a little.

Climb it, name it, and rate it 5.9

You'll be a 5.9 leader and have an FA.

Fremont, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2013 - 05:42pm PT
@ Dave, Thanks. Now I don't have to ask where I can find the easiest FA to do too.


Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
Mar 27, 2013 - 07:25pm PT
If there is any seriousness to this, I think the best way to learn to place gear is to make natural anchors for top-ropes. Then you get some climbing experience while you are learning to suss out anchor systems, and then it's a pretty small leap to placing gear on lead. Your shaking leg and hershey squirts and widening eyes will tell you when to back off.

Trad climber
Mar 27, 2013 - 07:41pm PT
... so what are the easiest 5.9 trad climbs out there?

dunno, but they are out there in the west, certainly not here in the east...

Social climber
Some Rehab in Bolivia
Mar 27, 2013 - 07:42pm PT

I STRUGGLED on a 5.7 today, so I'm the WRONG person to ask...


Some Random Guy

In a chair, drinkin' a beer, watchin' the show
Mar 27, 2013 - 08:06pm PT
super slide in the valley. only the end of the last pitch is a "5.9-" splitter crack. fun climb, good exposure. Maybe commitment and jam crack too.

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Mar 27, 2013 - 08:06pm PT
The revolution will not be televised.

Mar 27, 2013 - 08:17pm PT
The 2nd pitch of the Jam Crack Route, Sunnyside Bench, Yosemite. The start of the first pitch at 5.7 is another story.

Social climber
Mar 27, 2013 - 08:20pm PT
Go to Devils Tower and in two weeks you'll get where you want to be

Start training baby

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Mar 27, 2013 - 08:33pm PT
Climb a d*ck wrenching mega-classic 5.9 if you want the real title
Big Mike

Trad climber
Mar 27, 2013 - 09:00pm PT
Do central pillar of frenzy. It ain't easy. Definetly "5.9"........

Just do lots of other 5.8's and. 5.9's first... ;)

Trad climber
Where the Hoback and the mighty Snake River meet
Mar 27, 2013 - 09:04pm PT
Go to the Owens River Gorge. Spend a month in the pit late winter. Do not go bouldering. Many of the walls there have a progression of 5.7, 5.8, 5.9. 5.10 & lots harder. 5.10 is what you want to aim for. If you can lead 5.10, you probably have a million routes at your disposal. There's a bit of a jump from 5.8 to 5.9 that takes faith in your climbing ability. The jump from 5.9 to 5.10 is much blurrier. And they both have many shades of grey (granite). Fact, many 5.9's feel like 5.10a.

Have fun. That's waaaaay more important than grades

locker, I still get kinda pissed when I have days like that, but I'm afraid my off-the-couch is about 5.7 these days.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Mar 27, 2013 - 09:07pm PT
Have fun. That's waaaaay more important than grades


Mar 27, 2013 - 09:11pm PT
+1 on what Karo said. Milage feeling solid & then push into short, well protected sections of whatever feels hard for yah. My first 5.9 trad lead was Grant's Crack on Swan Slab in the Valley. Very short, very well protected, very clean.

Have fun!

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