I want to be a 5.9 trad leader


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Some Random Guy

In a chair, drinkin' a beer, watchin' the show
Mar 27, 2013 - 10:38pm PT
Climb a d*ck wrenching mega-classic 5.9 if you want the real title
the northeast buttress of higher cathedral will take care of that!

regular route of fairview dome. first pitch is soft 5.9 the rest is easier. it's one of the 50 classics too.

Social climber
A decent motel not too far from the action.
Mar 27, 2013 - 11:01pm PT
Work on the Five Open Books. Commitment is an easy 5.9.

Trad climber
Concord, CA
Mar 27, 2013 - 11:19pm PT
The Line at Lover's Leap is one 5.9 move at the bottom followed by much easier climbing above.
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Mar 27, 2013 - 11:25pm PT
TROLL - You've been Trolled. Pretty good one too. You knew it when you started answering because you wanted it to NOT be a troll.

Dave KOS wins 1st prize for best troll bait answer.

Social climber
So Cal
Mar 27, 2013 - 11:28pm PT
Go to J Tree.

pick up a full set of the Bartlet comic books.

Onsight everything 5.9 and three stars.

(Vogel etc. are a bit stingy with star ratings under mid 10)

That's a good start, although a bit lacking in the chimney and OW department.


Trad climber
the tip of god's middle finger
Mar 27, 2013 - 11:39pm PT
abandon your i.q.
5.9 is an understanding.

a new knowledge,
far superior to inter-cellulose travel.

you shall flee the common cause,
and embark upon an entirely tragic journey:
where the mountains make the love
and your girl only gets in the way.

where money becomes the thief;
poverty the castle.

give up your dreams;
someone else wrote them.

5.9 is heaven.
pray to it.
cease all forms of mastrabation!
become a drunk.
quit yer job.

5.9 beckons.

never bathe again.
chase the eagles.

f*#k the night.
beat the piss outta the day.

buy extra batteries.
stock up on nothing.

5.9 isn't quite where it is at,
though the dream is sexy.


Boulder climber
Mar 28, 2013 - 12:19am PT
smoke 2 spliffs, drink a cobra, and send Grant's Crack at night.

winning combination for shore
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Mar 28, 2013 - 04:05pm PT

Meet me in the Valley on the 20th and bring 3 sets of #2-#9 hex nuts. We'll sew this baby up tight.

The Granite State.
Mar 28, 2013 - 04:08pm PT
It was a good troll. I took the bait, though my recommendation was a .9+, not a .9.

Ha! Take that!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Mar 28, 2013 - 04:36pm PT
Jamckrack is a good climb. First pitch is 5.7 and 2nd has a very short bit of 5.9 section.

Commitment is a very easy 5.9 with only one 5.9 crux.

I thought Sellagenella and Braillbook (both 5.8s) were tougher climbs overall than commitment.

Central Pillar of Frenzy (on Middle Cathedral) is kind of a moderate 5.9 (something between jam crack and Reed's direct in difficulty) but 5 great pitches

East Buttress of Middle Cathedral is a great multi pitch (11 or so) climb which is fairly chill for the grade.

Kor Beck on middle cathedral is a really good 5.9, but not a very easy one. Just did it last weekend and really liked it.

Before these I would suggest trying Bishop's Terrace, Superslide, and Ejesta (5.8s) if you are not sure about your skills etc. Plus they are really fun.

Trad climber
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Mar 28, 2013 - 04:57pm PT
First, climb some 5.3s

Then eat lunch


Then, later, climb some 5.5s

Then get some sort of occupation.

Go climb some 5.6s, maybe some 5.7s

Might think about a girlfriend now. Dog? Find a nice place to live.

Climb some 5.8s

OK, it's the day. You are ready. You have mastered the skills to climb all of the lower grades on cracks, face, slab, offwidth (OK skip that shit) and you are salty.

Go get on that 5.9.

Trad climber
4 Corners Area
Mar 28, 2013 - 05:05pm PT
Maybe you should try becoming a 5.12 sport leader.

It might be a little bit easier . . .

Trad climber
Mar 28, 2013 - 07:03pm PT
My first 5.9 l trad lead was Fear of Flying. Was ready to take my first really scary fall when spotted a fixed piton in my reach. Clip-clip, yell "Hallelujah!", make two more moves and hooray - I'm on 5.easy terrain. That was fun.
the Fet

Mar 28, 2013 - 07:09pm PT
My first 5.9 trad lead was my first trad lead. Then I got smart and did a 5.6.

Sorry Charlie Its better to want to do 5.9 leads than want to be a 5.9 leader.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Mar 28, 2013 - 07:21pm PT
Oh, and stuff at Lovers Leap is awesome. Check that out if you have not been.

Haystack 3p 5.8
Corrugation Corner 4p 5.7
The Line 3p 5.9 (can be done in 2 pitches. not an easy climb)
Traveler's Buttress (real good 4p 5.9, especially if you can do OWs)

if you think those are ok try Psychedelic Tree and Scimitar. Scimitar is probably my favorite 5.9 at the leap.

Trad climber
Mar 28, 2013 - 08:06pm PT
BTW there is a super soft trad route @ The Grotto rated 5.9. It's left to the Refrigerator (aka AC Devil Dog). Think it's a bit overrated.

Anyway personally I would prefer to climb several fun routes in a new area (preferably on a new kind of rock) to hunt for ratings.
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Mar 28, 2013 - 08:07pm PT
Stay away from 5.9+.

Trad climber
the tip of god's middle finger
Mar 28, 2013 - 08:52pm PT
the true challenge
is to tackle any 5.9
at the tail end
of a two-week sex dry spell.

any of you freaks done that?
yea. i thought so.

neither have i.

Fremont, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2013 - 02:12pm PT
Hey Spider, do you mean the 20th of April? I have to take my daughter to the Tech Challenge that day but could meet on the 21st. I only have 1 set of hexes, but I think I can dig up some Lowe Tri Cams. I hear there is a horizontal up near the top.

the Fet, is
Sorry Charlie Its better to want to do 5.9 leads than want to be a 5.9 leader.
your own troll for a Tuna? Happy fishing, after all it is Good Friday.


Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Mar 29, 2013 - 03:15pm PT
....or you could just lead some 5.7's and 5.8's and then wait 25 or 30 yrs and they'll be upgraded to 5.9's and 5.10's, worked for me.
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