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| Messages 1 - 39 of total 39 in this topic |
Zoo
climber
Fremont, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 27, 2013 - 04:45pm PT
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... so what are the easiest 5.9 trad leads out there?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 27, 2013 - 04:50pm PT
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The esiest ones are not really 5.9.....same goes for the hardest ones. Shoot for 5.10, if you can walk down the sidewalk and chew gum at the same time you can climb 5.10, IF you put in the mileage.
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Mar 27, 2013 - 04:59pm PT
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What you are looking for is called 5.8.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Mar 27, 2013 - 05:08pm PT
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I know a few ... for a price.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Mar 27, 2013 - 05:19pm PT
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My first gear lead was Half Hit, .9, at Grouse Slabs. It's short and easy enough to protect.
Go get it!
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Zoo
climber
Fremont, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2013 - 05:42pm PT
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@ Dave, Thanks. Now I don't have to ask where I can find the easiest FA to do too.
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Mar 27, 2013 - 07:25pm PT
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If there is any seriousness to this, I think the best way to learn to place gear is to make natural anchors for top-ropes. Then you get some climbing experience while you are learning to suss out anchor systems, and then it's a pretty small leap to placing gear on lead. Your shaking leg and hershey squirts and widening eyes will tell you when to back off.
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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Mar 27, 2013 - 07:41pm PT
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... so what are the easiest 5.9 trad climbs out there?
dunno, but they are out there in the west, certainly not here in the east...
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Some Random Guy
climber
In a chair, drinkin' a beer, watchin' the show
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Mar 27, 2013 - 08:06pm PT
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super slide in the valley. only the end of the last pitch is a "5.9-" splitter crack. fun climb, good exposure. Maybe commitment and jam crack too.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Mar 27, 2013 - 08:06pm PT
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The revolution will not be televised.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Mar 27, 2013 - 08:17pm PT
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The 2nd pitch of the Jam Crack Route, Sunnyside Bench, Yosemite. The start of the first pitch at 5.7 is another story.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Mar 27, 2013 - 08:20pm PT
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Go to Devils Tower and in two weeks you'll get where you want to be
Start training baby
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Mar 27, 2013 - 08:33pm PT
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Climb a d*ck wrenching mega-classic 5.9 if you want the real title
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Mar 27, 2013 - 09:00pm PT
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Do central pillar of frenzy. It ain't easy. Definetly "5.9"........
Just do lots of other 5.8's and. 5.9's first... ;)
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hossjulia
Trad climber
Where the Hoback and the mighty Snake River meet
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Mar 27, 2013 - 09:04pm PT
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Go to the Owens River Gorge. Spend a month in the pit late winter. Do not go bouldering. Many of the walls there have a progression of 5.7, 5.8, 5.9. 5.10 & lots harder. 5.10 is what you want to aim for. If you can lead 5.10, you probably have a million routes at your disposal. There's a bit of a jump from 5.8 to 5.9 that takes faith in your climbing ability. The jump from 5.9 to 5.10 is much blurrier. And they both have many shades of grey (granite). Fact, many 5.9's feel like 5.10a.
Have fun. That's waaaaay more important than grades
locker, I still get kinda pissed when I have days like that, but I'm afraid my off-the-couch is about 5.7 these days.
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CalicoJack
climber
CA
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Mar 27, 2013 - 09:11pm PT
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+1 on what Karo said. Milage feeling solid & then push into short, well protected sections of whatever feels hard for yah. My first 5.9 trad lead was Grant's Crack on Swan Slab in the Valley. Very short, very well protected, very clean.
Have fun!
Andy
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Zoo
climber
Fremont, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2013 - 09:54pm PT
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@Nutjob: Not much ... And that's how I felt when I tied into rope 27 instead of 26 this morning, and faced the killer pendulum near the top. :)
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pvalchev
Social climber
Mountain View, CA / Calgary, AB
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Mar 27, 2013 - 10:11pm PT
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Reed's Direct
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Some Random Guy
climber
In a chair, drinkin' a beer, watchin' the show
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Mar 27, 2013 - 10:38pm PT
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Climb a d*ck wrenching mega-classic 5.9 if you want the real title the northeast buttress of higher cathedral will take care of that!
regular route of fairview dome. first pitch is soft 5.9 the rest is easier. it's one of the 50 classics too.
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Griff
Social climber
A decent motel not too far from the action.
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Mar 27, 2013 - 11:01pm PT
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Work on the Five Open Books. Commitment is an easy 5.9.
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protour
Trad climber
Concord, CA
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Mar 27, 2013 - 11:19pm PT
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The Line at Lover's Leap is one 5.9 move at the bottom followed by much easier climbing above.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Mar 27, 2013 - 11:25pm PT
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TROLL - You've been Trolled. Pretty good one too. You knew it when you started answering because you wanted it to NOT be a troll.
Dave KOS wins 1st prize for best troll bait answer.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Mar 27, 2013 - 11:28pm PT
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Go to J Tree.
pick up a full set of the Bartlet comic books.
Onsight everything 5.9 and three stars.
(Vogel etc. are a bit stingy with star ratings under mid 10)
That's a good start, although a bit lacking in the chimney and OW department.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
the tip of god's middle finger
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Mar 27, 2013 - 11:39pm PT
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abandon your i.q.
5.9 is an understanding.
a new knowledge,
far superior to inter-cellulose travel.
you shall flee the common cause,
and embark upon an entirely tragic journey:
where the mountains make the love
and your girl only gets in the way.
where money becomes the thief;
poverty the castle.
give up your dreams;
someone else wrote them.
5.9 is heaven.
pray to it.
cease all forms of mastrabation!
become a drunk.
quit yer job.
5.9 beckons.
never bathe again.
chase the eagles.
f*#k the night.
beat the piss outta the day.
buy extra batteries.
stock up on nothing.
5.9 isn't quite where it is at,
though the dream is sexy.
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hello_mr_copeland
Boulder climber
H-Town
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Mar 28, 2013 - 12:19am PT
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smoke 2 spliffs, drink a cobra, and send Grant's Crack at night.
winning combination for shore
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Mar 28, 2013 - 04:08pm PT
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It was a good troll. I took the bait, though my recommendation was a .9+, not a .9.
Ha! Take that!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Mar 28, 2013 - 04:36pm PT
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Jamckrack is a good climb. First pitch is 5.7 and 2nd has a very short bit of 5.9 section.
Commitment is a very easy 5.9 with only one 5.9 crux.
I thought Sellagenella and Braillbook (both 5.8s) were tougher climbs overall than commitment.
Central Pillar of Frenzy (on Middle Cathedral) is kind of a moderate 5.9 (something between jam crack and Reed's direct in difficulty) but 5 great pitches
East Buttress of Middle Cathedral is a great multi pitch (11 or so) climb which is fairly chill for the grade.
Kor Beck on middle cathedral is a really good 5.9, but not a very easy one. Just did it last weekend and really liked it.
Before these I would suggest trying Bishop's Terrace, Superslide, and Ejesta (5.8s) if you are not sure about your skills etc. Plus they are really fun.
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Reeotch
Trad climber
4 Corners Area
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Mar 28, 2013 - 05:05pm PT
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Maybe you should try becoming a 5.12 sport leader.
It might be a little bit easier . . .
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pell
Trad climber
Sunnyvale
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Mar 28, 2013 - 07:03pm PT
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My first 5.9 l trad lead was Fear of Flying. Was ready to take my first really scary fall when spotted a fixed piton in my reach. Clip-clip, yell "Hallelujah!", make two more moves and hooray - I'm on 5.easy terrain. That was fun.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Mar 28, 2013 - 07:09pm PT
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My first 5.9 trad lead was my first trad lead. Then I got smart and did a 5.6.
Sorry Charlie Its better to want to do 5.9 leads than want to be a 5.9 leader.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Mar 28, 2013 - 07:21pm PT
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Oh, and stuff at Lovers Leap is awesome. Check that out if you have not been.
Haystack 3p 5.8
Corrugation Corner 4p 5.7
The Line 3p 5.9 (can be done in 2 pitches. not an easy climb)
Traveler's Buttress (real good 4p 5.9, especially if you can do OWs)
if you think those are ok try Psychedelic Tree and Scimitar. Scimitar is probably my favorite 5.9 at the leap.
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pell
Trad climber
Sunnyvale
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Mar 28, 2013 - 08:06pm PT
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BTW there is a super soft trad route @ The Grotto rated 5.9. It's left to the Refrigerator (aka AC Devil Dog). Think it's a bit overrated.
Anyway personally I would prefer to climb several fun routes in a new area (preferably on a new kind of rock) to hunt for ratings.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Mar 28, 2013 - 08:07pm PT
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Stay away from 5.9+.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
the tip of god's middle finger
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Mar 28, 2013 - 08:52pm PT
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the true challenge
is to tackle any 5.9
at the tail end
of a two-week sex dry spell.
any of you freaks done that?
yea. i thought so.
neither have i.
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Zoo
climber
Fremont, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2013 - 02:12pm PT
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Hey Spider, do you mean the 20th of April? I have to take my daughter to the Tech Challenge that day but could meet on the 21st. I only have 1 set of hexes, but I think I can dig up some Lowe Tri Cams. I hear there is a horizontal up near the top.
the Fet, is Sorry Charlie Its better to want to do 5.9 leads than want to be a 5.9 leader. your own troll for a Tuna? Happy fishing, after all it is Good Friday.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Mar 29, 2013 - 03:15pm PT
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....or you could just lead some 5.7's and 5.8's and then wait 25 or 30 yrs and they'll be upgraded to 5.9's and 5.10's, worked for me.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Mar 29, 2013 - 03:32pm PT
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Go to Josh there dozens of em all over the place. Stand in the parking lot at hidden valley.. open your eyes and you should see a few without moving a muscle. If you are not to picky about the actual "rating" you will have a weeks worth of climbing as much of anything as you like. easy to hard.
Weeg
the true challenge
is to tackle any 5.9
at the tail end
of a two-week sex dry spell.
any of you freaks done that?
yea. i thought so.
neither have i.
Depends how you define sex.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Mar 29, 2013 - 04:44pm PT
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The easiest 5.9 trad lead has to be Double Cross at Joshua Tree.
But to be 5.9 you have to lead it with perlon slung hex nuts.
No can do the 21st. My 30th Anniversary with the wife.
On the afternoon of the 20th I have a little time. Have to hand out free swag in front of the Village Store for the annual Earth Day Party between 11-1:00. Anyone who walks up and recognizes me get extra free swag.
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