I want to be a 5.9 trad leader

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Zoo

climber
Fremont, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 27, 2013 - 01:45pm PT
... so what are the easiest 5.9 trad leads out there?
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 27, 2013 - 01:50pm PT
The esiest ones are not really 5.9.....same goes for the hardest ones. Shoot for 5.10, if you can walk down the sidewalk and chew gum at the same time you can climb 5.10, IF you put in the mileage.
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Mar 27, 2013 - 01:59pm PT
What you are looking for is called 5.8.
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Mar 27, 2013 - 02:08pm PT
I know a few ... for a price.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Mar 27, 2013 - 02:11pm PT
Me too!!!
I used to be a .10 trad leader 35 yrs. ago but told people I was a .9,
now at my age/shape .6/.7 leader tops.
Ratings like age are just numbers right?
Tad
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Mar 27, 2013 - 02:19pm PT
My first gear lead was Half Hit, .9, at Grouse Slabs. It's short and easy enough to protect.

Go get it!
Dave Kos

Social climber
Temecula
Mar 27, 2013 - 02:32pm PT
Just go to the Sierras and find some short easy crack that is not in any guidebook. You may have to hike a little.

Climb it, name it, and rate it 5.9

You'll be a 5.9 leader and have an FA.
Zoo

climber
Fremont, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2013 - 02:42pm PT
@ Dave, Thanks. Now I don't have to ask where I can find the easiest FA to do too.

nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
Mar 27, 2013 - 04:25pm PT
If there is any seriousness to this, I think the best way to learn to place gear is to make natural anchors for top-ropes. Then you get some climbing experience while you are learning to suss out anchor systems, and then it's a pretty small leap to placing gear on lead. Your shaking leg and hershey squirts and widening eyes will tell you when to back off.
divad

Trad climber
wmass
Mar 27, 2013 - 04:41pm PT
... so what are the easiest 5.9 trad climbs out there?

dunno, but they are out there in the west, certainly not here in the east...
locker

Social climber
Some Rehab in Bolivia
Mar 27, 2013 - 04:42pm PT

I STRUGGLED on a 5.7 today, so I'm the WRONG person to ask...

;-)



Some Random Guy

climber
In a chair, drinkin' a beer, watchin' the show
Mar 27, 2013 - 05:06pm PT
super slide in the valley. only the end of the last pitch is a "5.9-" splitter crack. fun climb, good exposure. Maybe commitment and jam crack too.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Mar 27, 2013 - 05:06pm PT
The revolution will not be televised.
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Mar 27, 2013 - 05:17pm PT
The 2nd pitch of the Jam Crack Route, Sunnyside Bench, Yosemite. The start of the first pitch at 5.7 is another story.
hobo_dan

Social climber
Minnesota
Mar 27, 2013 - 05:20pm PT
Go to Devils Tower and in two weeks you'll get where you want to be

Start training baby
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Mar 27, 2013 - 05:33pm PT
Climb a d*ck wrenching mega-classic 5.9 if you want the real title
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Mar 27, 2013 - 06:00pm PT
Do central pillar of frenzy. It ain't easy. Definetly "5.9"........

Just do lots of other 5.8's and. 5.9's first... ;)
hossjulia

Trad climber
Where the Hoback and the mighty Snake River meet
Mar 27, 2013 - 06:04pm PT
Go to the Owens River Gorge. Spend a month in the pit late winter. Do not go bouldering. Many of the walls there have a progression of 5.7, 5.8, 5.9. 5.10 & lots harder. 5.10 is what you want to aim for. If you can lead 5.10, you probably have a million routes at your disposal. There's a bit of a jump from 5.8 to 5.9 that takes faith in your climbing ability. The jump from 5.9 to 5.10 is much blurrier. And they both have many shades of grey (granite). Fact, many 5.9's feel like 5.10a.

Have fun. That's waaaaay more important than grades



locker, I still get kinda pissed when I have days like that, but I'm afraid my off-the-couch is about 5.7 these days.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Mar 27, 2013 - 06:07pm PT
Have fun. That's waaaaay more important than grades

WORD!!!
CalicoJack

climber
CA
Mar 27, 2013 - 06:11pm PT
+1 on what Karo said. Milage feeling solid & then push into short, well protected sections of whatever feels hard for yah. My first 5.9 trad lead was Grant's Crack on Swan Slab in the Valley. Very short, very well protected, very clean.

Have fun!

Andy
Zoo

climber
Fremont, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2013 - 06:54pm PT
@Nutjob: Not much ... And that's how I felt when I tied into rope 27 instead of 26 this morning, and faced the killer pendulum near the top. :)
pvalchev

Social climber
Mountain View, CA / Calgary, AB
Mar 27, 2013 - 07:11pm PT
Reed's Direct
Some Random Guy

climber
In a chair, drinkin' a beer, watchin' the show
Mar 27, 2013 - 07:38pm PT
Climb a d*ck wrenching mega-classic 5.9 if you want the real title
the northeast buttress of higher cathedral will take care of that!

regular route of fairview dome. first pitch is soft 5.9 the rest is easier. it's one of the 50 classics too.
Griff

Social climber
A decent motel not too far from the action.
Mar 27, 2013 - 08:01pm PT
Work on the Five Open Books. Commitment is an easy 5.9.
protour

Trad climber
Concord, CA
Mar 27, 2013 - 08:19pm PT
The Line at Lover's Leap is one 5.9 move at the bottom followed by much easier climbing above.
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Mar 27, 2013 - 08:25pm PT
TROLL - You've been Trolled. Pretty good one too. You knew it when you started answering because you wanted it to NOT be a troll.

Dave KOS wins 1st prize for best troll bait answer.
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Mar 27, 2013 - 08:28pm PT
Go to J Tree.

pick up a full set of the Bartlet comic books.

Onsight everything 5.9 and three stars.

(Vogel etc. are a bit stingy with star ratings under mid 10)

That's a good start, although a bit lacking in the chimney and OW department.

Norwegian

Trad climber
the tip of god's middle finger
Mar 27, 2013 - 08:39pm PT
abandon your i.q.
5.9 is an understanding.

a new knowledge,
far superior to inter-cellulose travel.

you shall flee the common cause,
and embark upon an entirely tragic journey:
where the mountains make the love
and your girl only gets in the way.

where money becomes the thief;
poverty the castle.

give up your dreams;
someone else wrote them.

5.9 is heaven.
pray to it.
cease all forms of mastrabation!
become a drunk.
quit yer job.

5.9 beckons.

never bathe again.
chase the eagles.

f*#k the night.
beat the piss outta the day.

buy extra batteries.
stock up on nothing.

5.9 isn't quite where it is at,
though the dream is sexy.

hello_mr_copeland

Boulder climber
H-Town
Mar 27, 2013 - 09:19pm PT
smoke 2 spliffs, drink a cobra, and send Grant's Crack at night.

winning combination for shore
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Mar 28, 2013 - 01:05pm PT
http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/Yosemite-Valley-El-Capitan-Sacherer-Cracker

Meet me in the Valley on the 20th and bring 3 sets of #2-#9 hex nuts. We'll sew this baby up tight.
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Mar 28, 2013 - 01:08pm PT
It was a good troll. I took the bait, though my recommendation was a .9+, not a .9.

Ha! Take that!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Mar 28, 2013 - 01:36pm PT
Jamckrack is a good climb. First pitch is 5.7 and 2nd has a very short bit of 5.9 section.

Commitment is a very easy 5.9 with only one 5.9 crux.

I thought Sellagenella and Braillbook (both 5.8s) were tougher climbs overall than commitment.

Central Pillar of Frenzy (on Middle Cathedral) is kind of a moderate 5.9 (something between jam crack and Reed's direct in difficulty) but 5 great pitches

East Buttress of Middle Cathedral is a great multi pitch (11 or so) climb which is fairly chill for the grade.

Kor Beck on middle cathedral is a really good 5.9, but not a very easy one. Just did it last weekend and really liked it.

Before these I would suggest trying Bishop's Terrace, Superslide, and Ejesta (5.8s) if you are not sure about your skills etc. Plus they are really fun.
stich

Trad climber
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Mar 28, 2013 - 01:57pm PT
First, climb some 5.3s

Then eat lunch

Sleep

Then, later, climb some 5.5s

Then get some sort of occupation.

Go climb some 5.6s, maybe some 5.7s

Might think about a girlfriend now. Dog? Find a nice place to live.

Climb some 5.8s

OK, it's the day. You are ready. You have mastered the skills to climb all of the lower grades on cracks, face, slab, offwidth (OK skip that shit) and you are salty.

Go get on that 5.9.
Reeotch

Trad climber
4 Corners Area
Mar 28, 2013 - 02:05pm PT
Maybe you should try becoming a 5.12 sport leader.

It might be a little bit easier . . .
pell

Trad climber
Sunnyvale
Mar 28, 2013 - 04:03pm PT
My first 5.9 l trad lead was Fear of Flying. Was ready to take my first really scary fall when spotted a fixed piton in my reach. Clip-clip, yell "Hallelujah!", make two more moves and hooray - I'm on 5.easy terrain. That was fun.
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Mar 28, 2013 - 04:09pm PT
My first 5.9 trad lead was my first trad lead. Then I got smart and did a 5.6.

Sorry Charlie Its better to want to do 5.9 leads than want to be a 5.9 leader.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Mar 28, 2013 - 04:21pm PT
Oh, and stuff at Lovers Leap is awesome. Check that out if you have not been.

Haystack 3p 5.8
Corrugation Corner 4p 5.7
The Line 3p 5.9 (can be done in 2 pitches. not an easy climb)
Traveler's Buttress (real good 4p 5.9, especially if you can do OWs)

if you think those are ok try Psychedelic Tree and Scimitar. Scimitar is probably my favorite 5.9 at the leap.
pell

Trad climber
Sunnyvale
Mar 28, 2013 - 05:06pm PT
BTW there is a super soft trad route @ The Grotto rated 5.9. It's left to the Refrigerator (aka AC Devil Dog). Think it's a bit overrated.

Anyway personally I would prefer to climb several fun routes in a new area (preferably on a new kind of rock) to hunt for ratings.
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Mar 28, 2013 - 05:07pm PT
Stay away from 5.9+.
Norwegian

Trad climber
the tip of god's middle finger
Mar 28, 2013 - 05:52pm PT
the true challenge
is to tackle any 5.9
at the tail end
of a two-week sex dry spell.

any of you freaks done that?
yea. i thought so.


neither have i.
Zoo

climber
Fremont, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2013 - 11:12am PT
Hey Spider, do you mean the 20th of April? I have to take my daughter to the Tech Challenge that day but could meet on the 21st. I only have 1 set of hexes, but I think I can dig up some Lowe Tri Cams. I hear there is a horizontal up near the top.

the Fet, is
Sorry Charlie Its better to want to do 5.9 leads than want to be a 5.9 leader.
your own troll for a Tuna? Happy fishing, after all it is Good Friday.

ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Mar 29, 2013 - 12:15pm PT
....or you could just lead some 5.7's and 5.8's and then wait 25 or 30 yrs and they'll be upgraded to 5.9's and 5.10's, worked for me.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Mar 29, 2013 - 12:32pm PT
Go to Josh there dozens of em all over the place. Stand in the parking lot at hidden valley.. open your eyes and you should see a few without moving a muscle. If you are not to picky about the actual "rating" you will have a weeks worth of climbing as much of anything as you like. easy to hard.


Weeg
the true challenge
is to tackle any 5.9
at the tail end
of a two-week sex dry spell.

any of you freaks done that?
yea. i thought so.


neither have i.

Depends how you define sex.
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Mar 29, 2013 - 01:44pm PT
The easiest 5.9 trad lead has to be Double Cross at Joshua Tree.

But to be 5.9 you have to lead it with perlon slung hex nuts.




No can do the 21st. My 30th Anniversary with the wife.

On the afternoon of the 20th I have a little time. Have to hand out free swag in front of the Village Store for the annual Earth Day Party between 11-1:00. Anyone who walks up and recognizes me get extra free swag.

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