Discussion Topic |
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Zoo
climber
Fremont, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 27, 2013 - 04:45pm PT
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... so what are the easiest 5.9 trad leads out there?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 27, 2013 - 04:50pm PT
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The esiest ones are not really 5.9.....same goes for the hardest ones. Shoot for 5.10, if you can walk down the sidewalk and chew gum at the same time you can climb 5.10, IF you put in the mileage.
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Mar 27, 2013 - 04:59pm PT
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What you are looking for is called 5.8.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Mar 27, 2013 - 05:08pm PT
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I know a few ... for a price.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Mar 27, 2013 - 05:19pm PT
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My first gear lead was Half Hit, .9, at Grouse Slabs. It's short and easy enough to protect.
Go get it!
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Zoo
climber
Fremont, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2013 - 05:42pm PT
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@ Dave, Thanks. Now I don't have to ask where I can find the easiest FA to do too.
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Mar 27, 2013 - 07:25pm PT
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If there is any seriousness to this, I think the best way to learn to place gear is to make natural anchors for top-ropes. Then you get some climbing experience while you are learning to suss out anchor systems, and then it's a pretty small leap to placing gear on lead. Your shaking leg and hershey squirts and widening eyes will tell you when to back off.
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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Mar 27, 2013 - 07:41pm PT
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... so what are the easiest 5.9 trad climbs out there?
dunno, but they are out there in the west, certainly not here in the east...
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Some Random Guy
climber
In a chair, drinkin' a beer, watchin' the show
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Mar 27, 2013 - 08:06pm PT
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super slide in the valley. only the end of the last pitch is a "5.9-" splitter crack. fun climb, good exposure. Maybe commitment and jam crack too.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Mar 27, 2013 - 08:06pm PT
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The revolution will not be televised.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Mar 27, 2013 - 08:17pm PT
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The 2nd pitch of the Jam Crack Route, Sunnyside Bench, Yosemite. The start of the first pitch at 5.7 is another story.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Mar 27, 2013 - 08:20pm PT
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Go to Devils Tower and in two weeks you'll get where you want to be
Start training baby
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Mar 27, 2013 - 08:33pm PT
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Climb a d*ck wrenching mega-classic 5.9 if you want the real title
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Mar 27, 2013 - 09:00pm PT
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Do central pillar of frenzy. It ain't easy. Definetly "5.9"........
Just do lots of other 5.8's and. 5.9's first... ;)
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hossjulia
Trad climber
Where the Hoback and the mighty Snake River meet
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Mar 27, 2013 - 09:04pm PT
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Go to the Owens River Gorge. Spend a month in the pit late winter. Do not go bouldering. Many of the walls there have a progression of 5.7, 5.8, 5.9. 5.10 & lots harder. 5.10 is what you want to aim for. If you can lead 5.10, you probably have a million routes at your disposal. There's a bit of a jump from 5.8 to 5.9 that takes faith in your climbing ability. The jump from 5.9 to 5.10 is much blurrier. And they both have many shades of grey (granite). Fact, many 5.9's feel like 5.10a.
Have fun. That's waaaaay more important than grades
locker, I still get kinda pissed when I have days like that, but I'm afraid my off-the-couch is about 5.7 these days.
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CalicoJack
climber
CA
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Mar 27, 2013 - 09:11pm PT
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+1 on what Karo said. Milage feeling solid & then push into short, well protected sections of whatever feels hard for yah. My first 5.9 trad lead was Grant's Crack on Swan Slab in the Valley. Very short, very well protected, very clean.
Have fun!
Andy
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Zoo
climber
Fremont, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2013 - 09:54pm PT
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@Nutjob: Not much ... And that's how I felt when I tied into rope 27 instead of 26 this morning, and faced the killer pendulum near the top. :)
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pvalchev
Social climber
Mountain View, CA / Calgary, AB
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Mar 27, 2013 - 10:11pm PT
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Reed's Direct
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Some Random Guy
climber
In a chair, drinkin' a beer, watchin' the show
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Mar 27, 2013 - 10:38pm PT
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Climb a d*ck wrenching mega-classic 5.9 if you want the real title the northeast buttress of higher cathedral will take care of that!
regular route of fairview dome. first pitch is soft 5.9 the rest is easier. it's one of the 50 classics too.
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Griff
Social climber
A decent motel not too far from the action.
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Mar 27, 2013 - 11:01pm PT
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Work on the Five Open Books. Commitment is an easy 5.9.
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