Polish climbing thread

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 72 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2013 - 10:50am PT
Moose: Cool, thanks for posting.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2013 - 11:14am PT
Artur Hajzer upon the 2012 happenings on K2: http://www.pakistan-explorer.com/3/post/2012/10/october-08th-2012.html
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2013 - 12:17pm PT
Climbing in Polish Jura: http://www.alpenverein-cottbus.de/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=146:klettern-im-polnischen-jura&catid=37:weltweit&Itemid=61

Climbing in Poland: http://flickrhivemind.net/Tags/climb,poland/Interesting
Send

Trad climber
Central Sierra
Jan 17, 2013 - 08:39pm PT

Jura Kraków-Częstochowa

Credit: Send

Credit: Send

Credit: Send

Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 18, 2013 - 08:52am PT
Send.

Thanks for posting excellent photos of Polish cliff climbing.

Knowing a bit of Polish history it can be hard to imagine the beauty of the country.
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Jan 18, 2013 - 09:00am PT
I LOVE this thread! If it had a few more boobs it would be my favorite.


I want to go back to Poland.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2013 - 01:52pm PT
Polish Winter Nanga Parbat Expedition
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Feb 5, 2013 - 02:00pm PT
There's a good graphic short story in either Alpinist 38 or 39 that tells of the Lho La tragedy. Short, but well worth checking out.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2013 - 12:06pm PT
Free Climbing 1986

Film nakręcono w doli...nkach podkrakowskich i w Podlesicach. Wstępują Andrzej Marcisz, Piotr Korczak, Wojtek Kurtyka i Francuz Vincent Fine


steveA

Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
Feb 6, 2013 - 12:38pm PT
Marlow,

I had the honor of climbing with Voytek Kurtyka, when we were all about the same age of 29.
My partner John Bouchard and I met up with Voytek and his Polish partner, on the last few pitches of the Walker Spur, in a raging thunderstorm.

Voytek and Bouchard both were hit by lightning. I'm sure they won't forget it, nor I.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2013 - 12:41pm PT
steveA
Are you willing to tell the story? Or have you or someone else written about the incident?

Edited: Thanks for telling the story!
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Feb 6, 2013 - 12:44pm PT
Is it the horse meat that makes the Poles tough as nails?
steveA

Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
Feb 6, 2013 - 01:08pm PT
I remember years back, there was an article in Rock and Ice, I believe on climbing epics or something like that, and Bouchard contributed a story about getting hit by lightning on the Walker Spur.

I think we both consider it one of our closest calls. I only had him in a body belay with NO tie-in. We were in one hell of a hurry, since it was like a blizzard, and as I remember it, there weren't any obvious spots to put in protection for an anchor.

Voytek took off leading the last pitch, and Bouchard followed up right behind him. Just after Voytek reached the top, there was one horrendous lightning strike, and Bouchard was hit pretty bad; falling off.
Somehow, Bouchard grabbed Voytek's rope, with his good arm, saving himself.

When I arrived on the summit, a few minutes later, Voytek said, "I'm O.K.
only hit in the head, but your friend is hurt real bad"

Bouchard thought his arm was broken, but within 10 minutes, the shock started to wear off. When we all got back to Chamonix, John found that he had burn holes in his mittens and his socks!

In hindsight, if Voytek hadn't led off, ahead of Bouchard, I wouldn't be here to write this, since Bouchard would of pulled me off with him.
Regan

Big Wall climber
Feb 6, 2013 - 01:21pm PT
SteveA, Thanks for sharing the story. You are truly hardcore guys. Very inspirational...
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2013 - 01:43pm PT
Wanda Rutkiewicz

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wanda_Rutkiewicz


Since the linked video in the second post of this thread has been taken down and I'm not able to edit the post.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2013 - 01:54pm PT
Jerzy Kukuczka

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jerzy_Kukuczka


Video texted in English.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2013 - 01:57pm PT
About the Polish climbers of Freedom Climbers: Three questions with Bernadette McDonald.

moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Feb 6, 2013 - 02:00pm PT
Some info on Regan:

http://www.nieznanetatry.pl/marek---rdquo-regan-rdquo--reganowicz-,145,544,20,1,I,informacje.html

AP

Trad climber
Calgary
Feb 6, 2013 - 02:09pm PT
Voytek once commented on the success of Polish climbers in the Himalayas.
He said something like "Himalayan climbing is the art of suffering and Poles know how to suffer because we have always been between the hammer and the anvil" He was referring of course to Germany and Russia
I had the pleasure of directing him and Fred Beckey to the party location at the end of a Calgary climbing Festival back in 88(?). Fred was saying things like "Well Voytek do you want to grab a beer?"
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2013 - 02:15pm PT
Thanks for the information Moose. I understand Walter Bonatti was the first role model of Regan. Here is more information about Regan's climbing:

New Route on Baffin Island 2012 - Superbalance (VII/A4/M7+) - Poles, Marek Raganowicz and Marcin "Yeti" Tomaszewski: http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web12s/newswire-superbalance

http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Superbalance-Polar-Sun-Spire-Baffin-Island-April-May-2012/t11493n.html
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